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Found 11 results

  1. Hi everyone, I saw this idea in a rough sketch on pinterest about 5 years ago, and only recently managed to get around to trying it out. Hopefully this will start a new type of cheap power hammer for us novices I like to call a "Diff hammer". Basically, you power the tail shaft on an open rear vehicle diff, then brake the opposing wheel to send force to the hammer drive. Made exclusively from free parts, excuse the welding of a few novices. This is powered by a 3hp DC treadmill motor, using the treadmill front drive roller as the drive wheel for a V belt, but a flat belt would also work. The plans were to link the two brake levers together, so the hammer was actively braked as soon as you lift your foot, but I haven’t found this necessary. The hammer spring is offset by an opposing counterbalance on the wheel to prevent additional vibrations and noise. I used an opposing spring mechanism as I only had access to trampoline springs for free at the time, and it made the spring rate highly adjustable It is a very quiet unit to run, and bearings are all available at local auto parts stores should they need replacing. The anvil is a big 130kg round of cro-molly I got for scrap prices, with a bit of rail line welded to the top sitting on a 100mm thick 300mm round I got for free from a local laser cutting place Video of it working hopefully to come on Thursday. any advice would be thankfuly recieved. VID_20200219_205940.mp4
  2. About 2 years ago I created a new type of inline hammer. http://www.iforgeiro...t-line-linkage/ As much as I like the hammer I always wanted to come up with a different design that contained less parts. Below is a video of the general concept. The hammer will need to be driven by either a cable or a chain. Currently I'm exploring the chain and sprocket option as shown in the model. It will certainly move quite differently than other hammers. The sprocket will have to rotate 180° to give full stroke. That 180° is the equivalent of about 17" of travel which is a little too much for treadle travel. I'll have to build a little mechanical advantage into the treadle connection in order to get it around 10" of foot travel. Current specs: 24" x 24" bottom plate. 70" tall main post. 37" to top of anvil. 18" of travel. 28" deep x 24" wide x 74" overall size.
  3. This is my treadle hammer. Built using the Hans Peot modified, Clay Spencer Treadle Hammer plans, from ABANA. Two changes made to those plans, were heavier wall thickness all around, (1/4”,) and some inches added to the back of the base plate, (six inches total). I added base plate length, because I wanted to push the hammer against a wall, and retain room to access the locking screws, when adjusting the swing arm height. One aspect of this hammer that helps it hit hard, is twelve feet of 2-1/2” square, cold rolled steel, married into a 5”X 5”X 36” anvil. The anvil calculates to 255#. The tup is 75#. I call it Mr. Monkey. This hammer was a boon to my forge. Previously, everything was by hand. It’s laborious, but with enthusiasm, possible, albeit impractical, to forge 1” round hot rolled steel by hand. I don’t recommend it. That being said, treadle hammers are not a substitute for a hammer with an electric motor. They can however, work effectively for some heavier forging, especially if you can get someone else to jump on it. As is known, by smiths with treadle hammers, they are ideal for chisel, and leaf work, punching and splitting operations, delicate accurate licks, and heavy single blows. They are very versatile. To the shop, they offer a very versatile striker, especially valuable in a limited space. I find it helpful, to think of it as a striker that can swing a seventy-five pound hammer, and who’s mistakes are my own. They are capable of serious injury. As for tooling, the versatility of the T.H. is limited by your own imagination. Faster than a hydraulic press, I have used mine to drive sealed bearings into bicycle hubs. They are capable of very delicate work. The biggest problem with my T.H., is the power source. It’s a bit unpredictable, sometimes unreliable, and subject to lapses of judgement. Somehow (so far) it keeps working in spite of the neglect, and over use of lubricants. There are certain dangers associated with treadle hammers. Simple maintenance can alleviate some of them. Keeping it oiled will slow the degradation caused by wear. Better bearings could help also. This bolt held the weight of the tup, at the top of the link to the treadle. A bit more wear and it would have sheared, and dropped the tup. Looking at this pic, it occurred to me that a chiseled line across the hinge, even with the axis of the bolt, would show the wear as it was displaced. The directions for the hammer said to bend the last coils of the springs cold, and insert the bar to fix them to the treadle. When bent cold they will eventually break off. The extra coils between the springs in this photo, are testimony to this fact. There are five of them. Once a spring broke, when I had only touched the treadle with my foot, ready for a strike. It is my belief that one spring alone, will let the tup down faster, and harder, than you can push it with your foot. For this reason, I do not put my hands on the anvil for very long, unless the ‘safety stop’ is in place. The ‘safety stop’ is made from 5/8” round, with a bit of 1/2” round welded to it, to mount it into the collar. It will stop the tup about four inches above the anvil. With it, I can hold tools by hand, with considerably less danger. Certain chisel work can be much more accurate, if you hold the tool with your fingers. With this kind of work it helps to lower the tup, just a few inches above the tool. This way, if a spring breaks, the tup cannot gain much speed, (Gravity accelerates at 32ft. a second, per second.) It also lessens the foot power required to drive the hammer, allowing greater delicacy.
  4. Im sure this has been answered so im sorry. I tried searching the forums and the internet for it but i couldnt find anything helpful. I just need to know what type of spring you would use for a treadle hammer? And maybe a rough ballpark of how strong it should be? (i know nothing about springs) Its for a very basic treadle. Probably like a 10lb sledge. Thank you for your time!!!
  5. Hey everyone, since this is my first post let me introduce myself. My name is Daniel and I live in the Willamette valley in Oregon (in case anyone needs a shop hand). I made this account when I was still a complete novice and trying to make tongs out of railroad spikes and using channel locks as my main tongs. Also when I was collecting cast iron window weights thinking that I was going to forge them into something. lol anyway let me get into the meat and potatoes of this post... I've been searching all over the web looking for different designs of treadle hammers because I want to build one to suit my needs. Compared to almost everything else blacksmithing, there is very little data on the good 'ol human powered beast. However the discussion is always centered around one existing design vs. another (Grade-Marx vs. Clay Spencer's design, the fabled Grasshopper, etc. Swing arm vs in-line etc.) Nobody really talks specifically about WHY these designs are good or bad beyond the basics: Anvil, hammer and spring weight, materials, build complexity... But one thing is ALWAYS ignored... GEAR RATIO!! First let me mention that I have never used a power hammer OR a treadle hammer. In videos, though, I am not at all impressed with the power of Clay Spencer's design. It's a 1-1 gear ratio with the pivot in the very center of the bar, and the drive linkage at the very end of the bar. It appears it hits NO harder than your foot can stamp the lever. The older gentleman with the Grade-Marx hammer, however, had some oomph behind it. I'm sure you've noticed how far back on the spring his linkage is set up. However I did notice when he went to faster hits, it seemed to lose a lot of power. The Clay Spencer seemed to really shine for repetitive hits. I'm also thinking a lot about drive systems. Levers and springs? Pulleys and springs? Counterweights? (I've read people don't like counterweight THs much though) I could make a treadle hammer with tons of pulleys, heavy duty rope, and a coil spring from a car, and it would be a wonderfully adventurous press. The foot pedal would have to travel so far that I'd need to climb a ladder and ride it down in order for the hammer to move a few inches with a tremendous amount of force. 9-1 ratio = 100 lbs on the foot pedal with 9X the travel distance = 9x the force on the hammer end with 1/9th the travel distance. And I also understand that Force is = to mass (weight) x acceleration. (I'm not actually this smart, my dad is a mathematician and i'm always bothering him with questions) So with this concept in mind I'm thinking I want the hammer to travel really far and the foot pedal to be very hard to press. But then there's a balance I need to find because I'm a hermit without power in my shop and really want to use this thing to draw bigger stock into smaller stock. (eyes the sway bar and coil springs on a junkyard truck) That being said, I also like doing decorative work and do love the idea of controllability while using tools. What are your thoughts? I really want to build this thing and I want it to be exactly what I need. Please help
  6. Hey all, I thought I would post up some pictures of the treadle Hammer I am using down at Bent River forge. It is made from a Mobile home axle if you look close at the bottom there is a lever that you can flip once that is flipped you can swing the hammer out of the way if this was your only Anvil or your in a small shop. The hammer head is about 15lbs. It's not for sale I am posting up here for the group to have a look at for their own design considerations.
  7. Ok as promised here is my review of my My new clay Spencer Inline treadle hammer, after testing. I spent the day in the shop yesterday and finally had a chance to hit some hot metal with her. My wife won the naming contest and named it “Jenny” as according to her a female mule is called a Jenny and well she (the hammer not the wife) kicks like one. the plans where fairly well written and easy enough to follow that a fool like me with no fab experience could build this hammer the majority of the 6months spent on this project was spent acquiring major components and only 1.5 months of weekends where spent on actual assembly, I did not keep a time sheet but if I had to guess I spent around 150-200 hrs spent on construction. There are a few options in the plans my anvil ended up being a 6” round 370lb solid anvil, the hammer I opted for a 3” round solid as opposed to a 2.75” round solid this gave me a 80 lb ram vs 65lb , I also upgraded the base plate to ¾ From ½ inch plate. Total theoretical machine weight of 750lbs the rest of the parts used where to spec. my test yesterday was limited to flat plates only as I have built no other tooling just yet I used two pieces of 1045 1” round stock cut to 1” for comparison one was hit 3 times with my previous heavy hitter a 2.5 kg peddinghaus one hand sledge which is no fun to forge with for any length of time. The other was hit 3 times with Jenny between the hard plates which are 4x4x1” 4140 ht the results are as follows hand sledge was upset to .895 thousandths treadle hammer .810 thousandths This was a little less than I expected but I was experiencing problems with my treadle hammer as the plans listed 150lbs garage door extension springs which are cut in half and 3 halves are used to counterbalance the hammer, I had hoped the poor performance on the return of the hammer would improve with use. But I seems the listed springs are just not enough with the upgraded hammer weight so to get a full blow out of the hammer I had to lift the treadle the last half of the total stroke distance with my foot so I could then strike with a full blow this took some getting used to and is less than ideal. Later after some practice I could manage 10-15 blows in a 1 minute heat but it was not quite right. I ran a second test on a piece of 1018 1” sq scrap struck on the 1” side that was roughly 1.25 inches long to start I gave it 2 heats and 20 blows as fast as I could manage and reduced it to .580 from 1.010 not bad but lifting the treadle was starting to get to me. So I ran back to Homedepot as they sell one size larger spring rated at 160lbs . After dinner and I got back out and swapped out the springs with two halves from the stronger spring and one original this was enough to lift the hammer a little better but still not quite all the way up with tooling in place so I took it apart once more and changed out the last spring and was rewarded with a nice crisp rise of the hammer all the way to the top of the stroke. But as I live in the city with neighbors near and it was now midnight I had to call it quits if you are planning on building this design I would just go straight to the larger 160lb Springs if you are using a 3” round for your hammer if you stick with the 2 ¾ “ you can probably stick with the lighter 150”lb springs if so I have an extra set I can sell you at cost or a little less. Over all I am more than pleased with my new toy I am hoping I can do a little better without having to lift the treadle Monday I will be building drawing dies and a flat shelf die to fit the bottom die so I can get a ½ face blow to make tongs and will post results next weekend.
  8. So i finally finished my new treadle hammer and i just had to show off because it is the first machine i have ever built from scratch, first welding/fab project, first major shop upgrade. And it only cost me $800 and 200hours of my time ????. i still need to build the hardplates, handle assembly, and bolt her in place but it works. thanks kubiack for your help on straightening the column i did end up cutting it almost compleatly apart. now the next question what to name her? never mind what to make with her first? what am i to do with my freetime now? ....... well i need sleep that is enough bragging for one night.
  9. hi am just a beginning blacksmith about 4 yrs exp making knives and other small work in my garage. any way i am planning on building my first treadle hammer this winter and i was wondering what alloys you all would recomend. i have clay spencers plans and i like the desighn for it's small footprint. important as my entire shop is 20x12 . any way the clay spencer plans just specify hot rolled steel for the hammer and anvil my question is hot rolled what? i work for a steel company that gives me a substantial discount (new stock at XXXX near the scrap price) so cost dose not scare me much. any way 1020 seems too soft a36 and 1045 are options or even 4140ht can get the high alloy stuff too but welding becomes a problem. let me know your thoughts Dave My first thought is that you need to read the ToS about language
  10. I am thinking of building a treadle hammer, and I would like to hear the good bad and ugly about them. I have all I need to make the treadle, but I would need to invest a few dollars to make a power hammer. As a hobby blacksmith is it worth it the time and money to build a power hammer or will a treadle be good enough?
  11. D.J. Blanton built this hammer in 1991. He is retiring so I bought it from him yesterday. I rebushed the spring arms, wire brushed & painted it blue(it was green). Then I added the safety chain and arm on top. Finished the day out bolting it to the wall posts . Tomorrow I'll finish bolting it to the floor. Can't wait to try it out. John
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