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Found 8 results

  1. I need to forge a root cutting tine for my backhoe. In researching tool steel I was a little overwhelmed, ok, a lot overwhelmed. What I found was V3 steel. Is there a better choice. I am not sure what will be the chief attribute needed for an implement like this. I have to remove hardwoods and pine trees roots. Thank you in advance. Regards
  2. Hey gang, I've been doing some reading about how well A2 performs as a steel for wood working tools. I found a good price on some A2 in the size I want for making wood chisels of various sizes. However, some places I'm reading for heat treat say you absolutely have to have heat treat foil and some say you do not for air hardening. Anyone here have any thoughts or experiences with it?
  3. I was given a 0.5x1x14" piece of O1 to play with. Up til now I have only used leaf spring steel (with good results). Any pointers before I start swinging? Thanks guys! Btw I'm using a 3lb cross peen hammer on a 195lb anvil.
  4. forged hardie from axle for 3/4" hardie hole
  5. Forged this knife from a concrete drill bit. It's quite the ugly blade. It was intended to be a work knife for my work bench, but then I ended up playing with the handle... and I like it! If you find yourself wondering why the blade is so crude looking, that's why. I do think I tempered it a bit soft, though. That was before the tempering knowledge that I have now. Handle is red oak with a Tru Oil Gun stock finish. I gave it the hair removal test... it passed. The sheathe was one of the knife kits from Tandy bit I did the tooling and the staining. I prefer to do my sheathes from scratch, but I got three of those kits as a gift so I figured "might as well!" Made the blade and rough mounting back in January. Re-did the handle and completed the sheathe this week.
  6. Recently, my passion for woodworking has been rekindled. I spent a few years building and installing high-end custom cabinetry and shutters several years back, before pursuing my current career as a paramedic. Paramedicine is typically characterized by long, loooooooooong hours (often more than 100 hours/week) and pitifully low wages (most of the "life-savers" who respond to your emergencies make a lower hourly wage less than that of a teenager working at In-n-Out Burger....hence the 100+ hours/week) and so after 8 years I have found myself in dire need of a hobby. While much of my previous experience was done using expensive power tools, I have found myself very interested in the idea of hand crafting wood and even the tools for woodworking. In my research and purchasing of tools, I began to entertain the notion of making my own chisels and plane irons. A premium 2 3/8" wide plane iron made of 3/32" O1 steel is roughly $40 from Hock Tools, whereas 18" of 2.5" wide O1 steel of the same thickness would cost me roughly $28+s/h. Likewise, with good O1 steel chisels running around $70/ea, I could theoretically make four or five for the price of one. Further reading and research led me to a number of ideas and techniques used to make premium hand tools, such as laminating a piece of high-carbon tool steel to mild steel or wrought iron to create a tool with that was able to take and keep a finely honed edge, while still retaining the shock absorbing and impact resistance properties of the milder steel (these were also much easier to sharpen as most of the bevel being hones was made up of the milder steel). I also read that tool steels typically contain 0.8%-1.2% carbon (with the higher quality steels having more carbon) and learned how the grain structure and molecular structures affect how finely and edge may be honed and how well it keeps that edge. I would also note that my father-in-law has been a professional ferrier for about 30 years, and has a small propane forge, anvil, various hammers and tongs, as well as a working understanding of blacksmithing (at least as it relates to shoeing horses). Thus, I have access to basic tools and enough knowledge to hopefully keep me from burning myself too badly-although, if I DO get burnt...well, there's something I HAVE been extensively trained to handle ;-) Now on to my harebrained schemes... 1) Use mild steel repurposed from old horseshoes, and forge weld a 0.03125" thick piece of O1 steel to the back of one side (using perhaps sand or borax as flux?), creating the laminated edge that is highly sought after in quality chisels and plane irons. The stock could then be rough shaped on the anvil, finished with files or grinders, and then heat treated and tempered before honing a final edge. 2) Simply anneal 0.25" thick O1 stock; then shape, heat treat, and temper accordingly. 3) Heat the O1 stock to critical temperature, then air-cool 2-3x before forge welding and/or shaping (I read in one thread that it is a common method of further reducing the grain size of the steel) 4) Use a case hardening method to increase the carbon content of the O1 stock from roughly 0.90% to (hopefully) something closer to 1.2% (I have a video tutorial/lesson by the American Gunsmithing Institute that explains and demonstrates case hardening small parts using a propane torch and carburizing liquid that is brushed onto the steel) Well, these are the ideas I am throwing around in my head. I would greatly appreciate any advise and/or caution from those with more knowledge on the subject. Thank you in advance!
  7. Hey Guys, just me showing one possibility to make a hammer eye punch. I used C60 tool steel in 20mm round stock: Here are the different steps: 1. forge the round bar to an octagonal shape 2. create a teardrop shape about 1 inch below the top 3. create a light taper that starts of at the end of the teardrop and gets thicker for about 2 - 3 inches 4. then cut off additional 4 inches and create a light taper that gets thinner to the tip 5. taper about 1 - 2 inches at the tip thinner than the rest 6. planish and make everything nice and straight 7. dress the striking face 8. dress the surface of the rest of the tool and remove remaining sharp corners (optional) 9. heat up the whole tool above the transition point and let cool down slow (eg. in sand or on coals) to anneal it 10. grind the tip 11. heat up about 1 inch of the tip to cherry red colour and quench it in water or in oil to harden it (optional) ATTENTION: NEVER harden the striking face!!! 12. temper the hardened portion and a bit above to sky blue colour 13. clean it and touch up the edge 14. look out for cracks, test whether it is shatter proof 15. have fun with it :). Here is the one I made in the video: Well I hope this was helpfull. Yours - Daniel
  8. Hey Fellows! Me finishing and testing the first draw knife I forged yet. It is handforged from C60 (AKA 1060) tool steel, water hardened and gradually tempered from the spine. Yet it services me well :-). http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=qVj32un5BG0 Yours - Daniel