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Found 10 results

  1. I will preface my striking anvil build questions below with (I have searched the Forum and read the threads). This is a request for advice from those who have built, used, abused and had experiences with striking anvils. I want to avoid mistakes and make this anvil one time. ONE and DONE! Top is 14 X 4 X 2, which will be welded onto a bottom which is one inch larger (All the way around) than the top or 16 x 6 x 2. Material is MILD STEEL. I have cut a 1 1/8 hardy hole into the anvil which is the hardy shank size of my bottom fullering, cupping and cutoff hardys already built for my anvil. - My current Hardy tools will all fit this striking anvil without having to make new hardy tools. *My Plan is to cut the legs from Pipe at a 9-11 Degree angle (Which in your opinion is better 9 Degree, 10 Degree, 11 Degree angle and why?) - Legs will be 3 inch pipe welded to the bottom 2 inch plate, with supports welded around the bottom of the pipe legs, and bottom plates for anchoring to concrete. *My plan is to set the top height of the anvil at 24 inches or 2 feet high. I am 5-10 ish and shrinking at 49 years old! (What say you on Striking Anvil Height?) SO, What angle on the legs? What Height on the striking surface of the anvil? I'm 5 foot 10 inches tall What mistakes did you make on your striking anvil that you would change if you had it to do over again? THANK you in advance KEVIN KING Fayetteville ARkansas
  2. I will preface my I preface my striking anvil build questions below with (I have searched the Forum and read the threads). This is a request for advice from those who have built, used, abused and had experiences with striking anvils. I want to avoid mistakes and make this anvil one time. ONE and DONE! Top is 14 X 4 X 2, which will be welded onto a bottom which is one inch larger (All the way around) than the top or 16 x 6 x 2. Material is MILD STEEL. I have cut a 1 1/8 hardy hole into the anvil which is the hardy shank size of my bottom fullering, cupping and cutoff hardys already built for my anvil. - My current Hardy tools will all fit this striking anvil without having to make new hardy tools. *My Plan is to cut the legs from Pipe at a 9-11 Degree angle (Which in your opinion is better 9 Degree, 10 Degree, 11 Degree angle and why?) - Legs will be 3 inch pipe welded to the bottom 2 inch plate, with supports welded around the bottom of the pipe legs, and bottom plates for anchoring to concrete. *My plan is to set the top height of the anvil at 24 inches or 2 feet high. I am 5-10 ish and shrinking at 49 years old! (What say you on Striking Anvil Height?) SO, What angle on the legs? What Height on the striking surface of the anvil? I'm 5 foot 10 inches tall What mistakes did you make on your striking anvil that you would change if you had it to do over again? THANK you in advance KEVIN KING Fayetteville ARkansas
  3. Hello, this is my first post. You have a great forum here. I have an old 83 lb Northern Star cast steel anvil from Sweden. I have done a few small projects but really don't want to do heavy projects on my anvil as im worried it may be a bit too small and I don't want to destroy it. I am building a striking anvil (6'x12'x 3" thick mild steel with a 1" Hardy hole) but sizing the stand and height of the face as you would a regular anvil (instead of the shorter striking anvil height) to use for the larger projects i want to do in the future, Until i can afford a larger anvil I figure i can use the horn on my old anvil when needed. Does this sound like a bad idea? How far in should the Hardy hole be in from the edge? Should I put a Pritchel hole in it (and what size if so)? How far in from the edge should the Pritchel hole be, and how far away from the Hardy hole? Your thoughts would be appreciated Sorry to be so long winded.
  4. I have acquired a hunk of steel and was planning to make a striking anvil from it. Short of putting legs on it and a hardy hole are there any other thoughts? Most striking anvils are longer than they are wide. Well the ones I have seen are.... I suspect I could cut this and make two small ones but I have no need of that. Is there an issue with this being nearly square? I am thinking the added area may be useful for something... Any dos or don'ts about where to put the 1.0" hardy? I am good with any thoughts or ideas whatsoever!
  5. Hello my name is Ethan and I am a 13 year old blacksmith with ambitious plans! I mostly do traditional blacksmithing and I really enjoy working with a striker. I received a 3 1/2lbs rounding hammer from Alec Steele and am enjoying it beyond description. I am slowly making the tools to make a hammer following the Brian Brazeal's tools to make tools curriculum. Eventually I would like to make a striking anvil and if anyone is open with advice on striking anvils or making rounding hammers please let me know. Ethan
  6. I started this while the site was down and finally finished it up. While its not very unique I'm happy with the end result. The top is 21" long x 2" thick . The baseplate is 1" thick. The legs are 2" heavy wall tubing filled with sand. The hardy hole is 1 1/8" and was drifted with a torch : / .. I drilled the pritchel hole out and in the wrong spot but i hope itll workout where it is ..if not ill weld it up and move it :) . Thanks to Brian Brazeal and all that have posted theirs in the past for the inspriation.
  7. Here are a couple of pictures of the first of six striking anvils I am building for friends and family. Total cost of materials: 4.75" x 4.75" x 11.75" 5135 steel block: $55.00 2" schd 80 pipe for legs: $10.00 3/8" steel braces and 1/2" plate feet: $5.00 Water jetting 1 " hardy: $130.00 Square facing all six sides of block: $60.00 6010 and 7018 electrodes: $20.00 Mileage and other: $70.00 So......for $350.00 in materials and 5 hours of fussing around in the shop I have the first one finished. Not the cheapest proposition on the block; but this tool will save your working anvil a lot of abuse and is the correct height and form to properly strike tools on. And before you ask....the height is 22.5" which is lower than some folks but also allows for each person I am giving them to to use it and then I will cut new rounds for the feet of the correct height to mail to them so that they can have it the right height for their use. This is much preferred to have to cut down the legs and requires only a quick easy weld (mild to mild), and they could even bolt them on using the anchor hole if they did not have a torch or welder. And...the legs are welded to 1/2" mild doublers which are in turn welded to the 5135. I heated the 5135 with a rosebud prior to weld up to drive off any moisture that would affect the HS electrodes: I did not reach a temperature high enough to meet any industry standards for joining medium carbon to mild steel...but as a field expedient; driving off the water and at least getting everything to the same temperature does usually work. Time will tell and pretty quickly as two of these are going to the Brazeal Brothers for allowing me to steal away their very excellent David Gaddis built striking anvil for my son Daniel's use (and he has taken it the the Heartland Horseshoeing School to make tools with while he is there). I also left 1/2" holes open in the feet so that the end users could fill them with sand and oil if they so desire. I did not do so because I am concerned that an unsuspecting person might afterwards attempt to cut or weld on the legs and be quite surprised at the results. Even water in the sand could be interesting! But the holes are there and could be tapped, just plugged, or epoxied shut after filling. I am probably going to put oil soaked metal fillings from my band saw in the ones I build for Daniel and myself. Cheers all.
  8. Well I pulled the trigger on making a railroad track anvil the other day. I went to the scrap yard the other day and found a 3' chunk of UNUSED railroad track and made it mine for the low, low price of $21.00. I've been trying to figure out what I'm going to do with it, I know I want to make a small anvil with a 3/4" hardie hole for general forging, but I'm thinking about making a smaller striking anvil, again with a 3/4" hardie hole, as well. Things I know... - The rail has not been used, so it's not work hardened. - I can mar and dent it quite easily with cold iron. - I spark tested it, it appeared to be high manganese. - A magnet is attracted to the steel. - It seems to file and grind easily. Things I don't know... - Will I need to harden the anvil when it's finished? - How hard is it to drill? (for the hardie hole) - Will the manganese steel work harden from forging on it? - I know a torch will cut the rail, but how do I get a good, clean, square cut on the rail head? - Is it weld able? I have little-to-no experience doing anything like this, so any advise would be appreciated! Thanks!
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