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Was in the process of drifting a slit for my first hammer eye punch in a rectangular piece of 4140 about an 1 1/4 deep and 3/4 of the way one of the corners chipped off (about 1/4" of a 1"). I was cooling in my water quench bucket after every second/third hit, I didn't work the material cold (good orange heat), used a 2/5lb hammer. What did I do wrong? I should be able to salvage the chisel by regrinding and re-heat treating, I just don't want to repeat my mistake. Any advice (pertinent to my slitting chisel) is welcomed. Edit: Should also indicate that the 4140 billet was annealed in vermiculite for a couple hours after I pressed it from round into rectangle.
Hi All, I just made a smithin magician clone and want to make a die set for it that would let me slit stock so that I could then have a starting point for drifting some holes in it, or use it to set up for making a basket twist, for example.. I attach my crude sketch; the idea is to have the central "chisel" terminate in a 60 degree angle, but the "shank" is more or less straight.. it would accept stock as large as 1 x 1" though I do not foresee doing anything nearly that heavy. I can just make it and try it, but I figure someone has probably looked at this. thanks for any comments!
I’m making a tomahawk/small axe; I have two questions concerning it. I tried to start it tonight but as I was drifting the eye it developed an unnatural bulge to one side. What is the proper way to slit and drift to avoid that again? I have done it several times on other projects and there always seems to be a slight bulge to one side and always fixable, but tonight it was ridiculous. So what is the proper procedure to make a good clean drift? My second question, is for the cutting edge, I have W1 steel for the bit; however I have heard that it is nigh impossible to forge weld W1 to mild steel. So should I try to weld with W1, if so what is the best procedure to insure that the W1 does not burn away? Or should I just use a different tool steel altogether, perhaps like an old file, I have several of those. Also I don't have a modern welder, so anything but forge welding is out of the question, plus I would rather do it the old fashioned way. Here are the specs: 1018 mild steel 1 inch square bar, about 3 3/4 to 4 inches long. Also W1 tool steel about 1/2 x 3/4, S7 steel, or an old file. My drifting tools are: 1 x 1/8 inch H13 tool steel, then I use a 1/2 inch taper drift, then proceed to use a 1 inch drift. If my drifting tools are all wrong let me know I'm always open to critique, I am fairly proficient with welding with borax and sand on mild steel projects as well. Thanks, any critique or help would be greatly appreciated.