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Found 9 results

  1. Hi, I'm in the process of making a side blast forge and i want to share whith you. The design is based on Mark Aspery notes, the Main body is almost complete and now i'm working on the Hand Crank blower, inspired in a antique Buffalo flyweel design. Eveverything is Made of scrap ir recycled parts and materials. My idea is to use this coque forge whithout electricity, it will depend on the eficiency of the blower design, but whit the 60cm cast iron wheel driving a 2cm diámeter blower pulley plus the Crank relation of two turns of the flyweel per Crank i think it Will work.The main air tube is made big for this propouse from a 9cm Pipe narrowed at 2,6cm at the tip of the nozzle. What do you think? This post bring me back ti the forum since a long time, i will apressiate your suggestions and coments, i will go posting the progresess. I read in some other post about filling the botom of the forge whith different materials, i have on hand two: masonry sand or black soil (not a clay type) what did you recomend as a best option? Thanks and have a good forging day every body!
  2. The following is a quick summery of the 55 Forge. More in depth design and discussion can be found on the site. The original 55 Forge was bottom blast. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. The tuyere was a piece of auto exhaust pipe with 1/4 inch holes to accept 1/4 inch round bar in a X pattern to form a grate. Lots of open room for air to move up and into the bottom of the fire. The next test modification was to put a brake drum into the 55 forge as a fire pot. You can see the cone shape to the ash and the rim of the fire pot. The bricks were added to give the fire more depth for the project at hand. Ash will build up to the top of the tuyere in the bottom blast in a fire or two. There is a T configuration below the bottom of the forge that is not shown. The T section is close to the bottom of the forge and the down pipe is 12 to 18 inches long (what ever you have on hand). Clinker is not really a problem due to the size of the tuyere. Just let the fire idle for a minute or two and the clinker will solid up and can be hooked out. Ash will at times fill the down pipe and need cleaned out. I have run this forge using coal dust or breeze. Once the fuel starts to coke ( a couple of minutes into the fire ) there is very little fuel that falls into the down pipe. The next modification was to make the 55 Forge a side blast forge. Just cut a slice in the side of the wall and add an air pipe. The depth of the slice was to the top of a house brick laid on its side. It was available. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. I like this design as it is so simple to build and works. That is an aluminum clothes dryer vent pipe being used to transfer air from the blower to the forge. With the side blast version the ash and any clinker builds up under the fire. On either 55 forge, the cut edges of the metal as they are sharp. You can roll them over, or cut a 2 inch piece of metal from the parent drum, fold it in half long ways, and place it over the cut edge of the metal pan. The 55 forge was developed so that any one in any third world country could have a forge with little or no cost. The forge runs on solid fuel, coal, coke, wood, charcoal, lumbar, pallets, etc. As has been stated many times before, Fuel does not make the fire hot, Air makes the fire hot. If there is a question about how hot, then add more fuel and more air. It can and has reached welding heat. It has also melted the metal if you do not pay attention to what your doing. ( Do not ask how I know this as I was not paying attention.) The 55 Forge is a great design that is simple and works. It is easily modified to adjust the size of the fire pot, the depth of the fire pot, different tuyere configurations, and the list goes on and on. Folks thought a brake drum was needed, so I tried both a brake drum and rotor. Each has advantages and disadvantages and in the end were not required. It simply adds a level of complexity to the system and overcomplicates simple. The fun part of the 55 Forge is make one, use it, modify it as you wish. When you finish there is another 55 Forge on the other end of the drum as a spare. The label on a drum is NOT accurate, it only means that is what the drum contained just before the label was applied. I found a empty drum at a auto repair shop. The label said 5W30 motor oil with a brand I immediately recognized. Somehow the top of the drum was hooved or domed a bit. When I removed the bung plug from the bung hole there was release of pressure and an overpowering aroma of gasoline and other very volatile materials. I ask the shop manager about the drum and he said "Oh that was the one they used for racing fuel last weekend." ALWAYS choose a drum that you can pronounce what it contained before you brought it home. NEVER use anything that throws off heat or sparks when you open a closed container or drum. If in doubt, have someone else cut the drum in half while you go get a burger and fries for the both of you for lunch. The 55 Forge is just a way to get you started quickly, so you can play in the fire while you research and plan on what your second forge design will look like.
  3. Hey guys I just wanted to show y'all my newest forge I just built and tested. It works pretty good but still needs a few things before it's finished. I built it from a piece of tube iron I cut one side off of and I'm gonna put 2 slits in that side so I can slide it down on one end to keep the fuel source in and will make it adjustable for smaller projects. I may add a spot on top of one of the sides to hold the charcoal before it goes into the fire. I still gotta add legs too and I am gonna add a bleeder valve to make the air flow adjustable with a hole in the side of the tuyere that I can put a slide pipe on to make it more adjustable for my hair dryer. But this really worked well when I tested it. Let me know what you guys think.
  4. Hey guys I finished my new jabod this weekend and it just dried up good today since it just rained here a lot last week and I dug in the mud to fill it up I need to adjust the tuyere height since its only about an inch above the bottom of the fire pot I used 2 bricks to make the fire pot since that's what I had and it seems adequate I haven't got to fire it up yet but this weekend I'm gonna get in some time with the forge. Let me know what you guys think. Oh the second pic has my first 55 bottom blast forge in the background. The brick is for size reference.
  5. I've finally decided to level up from a break drum forge, and I want to do it right this time. I've been studying up, and I think I may have designed the forge I want. I just want to check that I'm not overlooking any fatal errors in my design, which I know has flaws. I would have used a tried and true premade design but I couldn't find one that had all of the features I want. Those features being; a compact, water cooled side blast forge with a hood which will function outside, this is a lot to ask for. Basically a do all forge I can take almost anywhere. This would be much easier if I didn't also want it to look good. The main problem is to get the hood (super sucker because its the smallest that will function outdoors) and the bosh tank to fit in the same space. My solution to this is make the bosh a kind of U shape so that the hood can fit in the middle. I'm not even sure if this is even necessary because the bosh tank is now stupidly big (13 ish gallons according to the liquid volume calculator I used.) so I wonder if I could just get away with just a wide shallow bosh. The reason I wont just make a thin tall bosh (which is obviously most effective) is because I don't want the hood to hang off the back of the forge, I know its finicky but I want a really nice presentation when I take it to the fair, and because I'll have to look at it the whole time I work. So I'm trying to keep the bosh tank the same dimensions as the base of the hood. So does anyone see anything about this which won't work? Thanks in advance, Broadus.
  6. I've been following the "portable side blast forge" thread with growing interest as it looks like a good way to go. However there are some aspects that are a bit foggy for me, for example, the bosh volume. Mark Aspery has a design for a tuyere and bosh Building the Side Blast Forge That design calls for a tank that's going to hold 16 gallons or so, and the instructions specify that it keeps the water from boiling off. I found this company that makes tuyere's and boshes, however the dimensions listed would put the bosh capacity at around 9 gallons. I'd be using a 2-1/2" diameter champion hand crank blower for air supply and I'm burning coke as my fuel. I found a video here that shows a tuyere design at 15:22 which is designed to be connected via hoses to a remote bosh tank. I thought I'd mimic it with 6" round schedule 40 tapering to 3-1/2" per Mark Aspery's design with a 2-1/2" air pipe tapering to 1-1/2" inside. I sounds like I should have a 1" diameter hole in the nozzle plate, but I'd appreciate any guidance from folks who know about these things. I called around for sheet metal pricing and found that I could buy a metal wash tub or trash can for less than half the cost for enough 1/8" thick sheet metal to fabricate a 9 gallon bosh. The tubs and cans are lighter gauge, but they wouldn't be as close to the fire, and they comes pre-galvanized. As I understand it, the tuyere has to be close to the bottom of the bosh level for the heat to pump the water. A 16 gallon tub would have about 133+ lbs of water in it, which isn't too bad, but a smaller container would be easier to accommodate in a mobile setup. Plus that's less water that I have to fill or drain every time I want to move the forge. We have horrible mosquito borne illnesses out here in Colorado so I wouldn't want to leave stagnant water for them to breed in. I'd like this to work properly, preferably without scalding hot water right next to where I'd be standing. Most of the built-in boshes I'm seeing are behind the breastplate of the forge. That seems like it would give the smith some protection between them and the bosh, but I don't know what a "normal" bosh temperature would be relative to it's volume. I'd appreciate some help in determining how much bosh volume I'd need to make this work safely. Thanks in advance
  7. Hi everyone, i'm here to ask you all for yet more advice. When i bought my anvil, vise and tools the seller talked me into taking his forge too, which at the time seemed like a good idea. Now the problem is that i've had to buy materials for and build a lean-to/workshop type structure down the garden, to eventually work in, and generally make sure its suitable for what I intend to do. i've spent months working on this trying to get it all ready to use before winter and my personal deadlines keep being missed and its disheartening. Now the forge I got is a beautifull thing, however i've never even had the chance to light it and after the cost of building and aquiring everything to actually start swinging i've now ran into the issue of electricity to power the blower on the forge and it's starting to get demoralising. The cost of laying a cable and getting power would be madness and due to recent circumstances money has suddenly became a very precious comodity. What i'd like to know is if you all think I would be better served selling or trading my current forge for somthing smaller and simpler to get me started, and worry about paying for such luxurys as a blower and power points when i'm skilled enough for that to be more of an issue and can hopefully make my forgings pay for itself. This is very much currently a hobby too, though it is my hope than in a couple of years it could be a side-business. I'll attach photos, and thank you all again for everything. I'll also add coke or smokeless fuel is a virtual must. The neighbours are very particular and while the noise and hammering is fine if they think smoke could get to their lillys there will be letters to the local council etc. This is in the West Midlands, UK
  8. I use a very, very dirty coal. however, i can get it for $10.00 per 100#. So, brake drum forge does not work, clinker clogs the grate in minutes. so, without further adieu, the Trough style 55 side blast with chimney. Thoughts? ideas? suggestions? also, for updates about the building of this, check my blog in the blogs area, Toolception; Claw to peen. Thanks! click on the image to zoom in. thumbnail is quite small
  9. hey all this is my first post, i would say i am humbly familiar with coal smithing, but this little trinket seems to have fallen into my lap and i am trying to learn more about it... i know it is a champion blower and forge co. complete repair outfit No. 30... but as for what it is worth as a useable forge i am not so sure. I have used a bit of clay to line the pan as it is only 1/4" cast iron, and i am very unfamiliar with side-blast forges. so i dont know quite how to get this puppy cookin', which is mainly why i am posting. it has a 12" x 14" pan. is that even worth trying to work with? everything including the blower runs nice and smooth. i have all of the original parts including a emery wheel, two blower/drill press/emery wheel crank handles ( one long, one short), one cutoff harty (5/8"), the additional drill press bit holder and base plate, 12/4 to 1 geared crank system, and anvil. if any one has any ideas or tips for me to get this forge doing work please post a comment. thankyou. p.s. i have "restored" this forge a bit, but i just bead blasted it and gave it some fresh paint. hoping to minimize the rust. -Dave