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Found 5 results

  1. Hello Guys; As this is my first post, let me introduce myself. I am bart; hobby knifemaker/blacksmith. Professionally I am a linux / unix system administrator. Because I cannot train my shoulder ( lack of time), and have the parts lying around anyway; I decided I needed mechanical help. i'm building something resembling a appalachian power hammer; with influences from Norm Tuckers machine and James Helms gunhilda. John Perks in the UK has something similar as wel on youtube. I have a anvil composed of discs that interlock to form one cylinder. I'll attach a foto; they are about 30 cm across; 5 cm high and 25 kilo each; I have 17 of them. they resonate as one solid block, so I figured it should work if I clamp/weld/tighten them down good enough. I can always replace it later with a bunch of stacked solid bars and invest the money in that. Anyway, this makes my anvil up/down gradeable in height.I plan to put it directly straight under the hammer; but for this I need to mount the hammer and the guide first. I have 3 questions: 1. Where - in height - do you position the guide ? my central colum is a heavy I-beam, 25cm x 12 cm standing about 2,5 meters high. Or is this "adjustable" by modifying the other parameters of the moving parts (drive shaft) ? The anvil is about 85 cm high without head, and it sits on 3 I beams 25 cm high. so the anvil with die will arrive somewhere 120 cm high. I'll attach an older foto when it was still under contsruction. The rubber pads go under the frame , I use the chain thing to be able to lift the frame ... one-man shop; lifting this is not possible otherwise. 2. I don't have a plate steel base; BUT i have a LOT of heavy I-beam; so I welded 3 of them together to create a 40 cm wide 2 meter long base with 2 legs about a meter sideways. all extremities have boltholes to attach to the floor. Under the I-beam; I have alternating plates of wood/rubber; 3 times. Is that enough ? 3. I have a choich of 2 leaf springs: one more curved with more leaves but each leaf is about 1 cm thick. Or one about 2cm thick and more straight, but also 5 cm shorter, with tapered ends. which would be best ? greetings, bart. P.S. great forums; great info can be found here.
  2. My brother in law, Bill is building a power hammer, so we can make billets, the hammer chosen was the "RUSTY" the Appalachian Power Hammer. Last night we took most metal parts that needed welding and got them welded by my friend Mark. Now the assembly will begin, here are some pictures of my friends garage. http://www.appaltree...rusty/RUSTY.htm Here are some pictures: Here is the final hammer without the electric motor:
  3. I got this hammer off an auction website for $20 The face on it was a bit munted so today I set about making it a bit more useable and shiny. I am unfamiliar on what the peen on it would be used for though. Any ideas?
  4. I got my hands on this old anvil and was looking for some tips on how to clean it up as well as protect it, I live in a very humid place. I was thinking of going at it with a wire brush and some sand paper to knock off most of the rust, then I was planing on heating the anvil with a torch to burn off the rust and then coat in burnt Motor Oil to protect it from humidity. Is my plan going to have any negative repercussions? if so why? and what other route should I take? Thanks in advance for the advice. P.S. any idea what kind of anvil this may be?
  5. Hey everyone, I hope your all doing well. I was digging through some of my stuff in storage when we moved it home and found something that I forgot I had. Its a forged "chopping" style blade. I found it when my Dad and I were looking for native arrow heads and stuff like that. Do any of you have an idea on the age of something like this? sorry the pictures are so big.
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