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Found 7 results

  1. Hi everyone! I recently upgraded from my makeshift charcoal forge to an old rivet forge with a foot pedal cranked blower. Now that I started using coal, I have a problem with the rivet forge, whenever I blow air into the coal, it doesn't seem to warm up unless I crank the clinker breaker, and a lot of the heart of the fire falls down in the ash dump. This wastes a lot of fuel and makes my fire go hollow. But if I don't do this then my metal won't go above a red heat. Is this a fire management issue? Or is it something related to the forge. I'm guessing that small bits of coal clog up the air hole in the bottom of the forge. I attached a picture of the forge before I patched it up, and a picture of how I'm using it at the moment. Any comments or tips are welcome! Thanks in advance for reading and replying! Job.
  2. Hi again! So, I’d like to begin with what I have and what I’ve tried so far. I have a very thick cast iron rivet forge. If this was EVER meant to be portable, then it must have been for MUCH bigger/stronger dudes than me! (6’4”, 275lbs) It has no identifying marks or instructions to clay, but it certainly could have as it’s missing the original wind screen and I believe the tuyere/champion blower/mounting bracket may have come from a different forge. Currently, I’m struggling with ways to keep the grate in place. When I got the forge it came with a cast iron floor drain of sorts and it was cemented down with what appeared to be furnace cement. It eventually dried up, cracked and completely detached from the forge. Since then, I was given some cone 6 pottery clay. First I tried a gently sloping mound about 12” in diameter that built up just over the lip of the grate. I let it set up for several days uncovered in my garage in South Carolina summer heat. Temps never dropping below 90*. It looked great after drying with minimal shrinking and thin edge cracking. I then fired it slowly, building successively larger fires until finally running a fresh batch of green coal up to near welding heat. This worked for about a week. Then I noticed hairline cracks all over the clay and the entire thing crumbled when I tried to remove the coal for cleaning. I know the suggested method is any found clay, sand, grog, and possibly fire clay. My main question is, will I ever be able to make a cone 6 clay mixture that will withstand these temps and hold this grate in place? I’d like to be able to build up a 4” thick “table” around the grate and then build in a sloping fire pot in the center that holds the grate centered. Right now, the clay is dissolved in a bucket of water to just above a slip consistency. I intend to mix with dry sand until I reach the preferred consistency of ‘clump and crumble’! So sorry for the text wall. I just wanted to give as much detail as possible. tl;dr: I have cone 6 pottery clay and I’m trying to make it work as rivet forge liner/shelf. Will this ever work as I hope? Ok, have at me. Thanks, Ben
  3. Hey all! I bought this old rust bucket coal forge. I believe the term I’ve seen used is “rivet forge”. Zero make/model marks, that I can find. Tore the whole thing apart, replaced the pump handle, drive belt, and all the nuts n bolts. Three of the blades were busted off the blower fan, so I fabbed up some new ones, and attached them to the existing fan. Sprayed all the parts with a high temp, rust resistant paint, and reassembled the whole thing, only to have it NOT PUMP, SPIN, OR BLOW AIR!!!! Please help. The belt is nice n tight, the handle has room to maneuver, and the new fan blades fit inside the blower housing....what’ve I done wrong?? Also, there are extra holes in the pan. Any idea what those would be for? TIA, - Kagé
  4. I am using a rivet forge and the blast is supplied by a hand cranked blower. Plenty of draft. The airblast comes in through a flat plate at the bottom of the forge. The diameter of the fire is too small for the length of the pieces I am working on. Any suggestions how to increase the diameter or at least make it longer in one direction ? Thanks
  5. Hi all! My Hero Forge saga continues :-) I picked up this forge abou ta month ago, it's all belt driven, whereas most rivet forges I've seen have a quarter gear that moves the flywheel, this one has two belts instead of the gear..... I took the whole thing apart and cleaned it all up, got everything moving and spinning the way it should be. Got it all back together, started to test out to get ready for new homemade leather belts.... using Paracord to get the right sizes ;-) Well, I think I have the wrong flywheel.... the flywheel should spin clockwise in order to spin the blower clockwise... however, the clutch portion only locks up to spin the flywheel counter clockwise :-( I attached a picture to show what I mean.. hopefully.... you can see the tabs on the flywheel portion that will only lockup with the axle portion to spin the wheel counter clockwise.... am I correct in saying that there is no way that this thing will spin in the right direction by the pull of the wooden handle? There is also a spring on the inside between the flywheel and axle portion that pushed the axle portion away from the flywheel... I feel that spring is in the wrong postion and should push the axle portion toward the flywheel clutch and not away from.. I have no reason to suspect that this flywheel is not original, although it may very well not be original by the look of things.... anyone have the clutch pieces for a clockwise rotation and need a counterclockwise setup? or want to sell the assembly or pieces? two pictures... first one of the entire assembly... second one of the closeup of the "axle portion" of the clutch I'd love to get this old girl runnign again properly... I'd rather not hand make the clutch pieces in order to do so.... but I'm at a loss as to where I might even begin to find pieces like this :-( thanks all! Mike B oh and the "actuator" arm that usually has a big steel weight on it that the wooden handle attaches to is broken, so no big weight... I can substitute a bungee cord or two for now for that.... However, it's on the right side of the flywheel, which is opposite of what I see on all the other forges... usually that big "ball" arm is on the left, along with a gear mechinism for moving the big flywheel.... mine is all on the right side.....
  6. Hi everyone I recently acquired a 3 legged rectangular forge never had a fire in it. Unfortunately the crank gear has a 2in piece broken out. Does anyone have a 12in Champion gear that they would be willing to sell? Here is a picture
  7. Hello everyone, I believe this is my first post on I Forge Iron. I am in some need of some help and advice. I purchased a rough Champion 401 rivet forge from a blacksmith in Townsend, DE for about $50. The blower is in pretty much mint condition, minus the wasp's nests and caked on grease and dirt I cleaned out of the fan area. The rusted out legs were basically fused into the mounting brackets, but managed to free them and replace them (took a month of chiseling and filing). I will be replacing the rusted out, paper thin base pan bottom with a new 1/8" thick plate. The only problem I am having is that the end of the blower tube and the front part of the frame is rotted. Is there anyone out there with a 401 frame and a matching blower tube that I can buy. There is a guy who lives four and a half hours from where I live that has what I need but refuses to mail it to me unless I pay double for it. He was asking $50 if I were to go there and take the blower he wants off it, but said last night that if he has take it off himself and ship it to me he is going to charge $100 (not including shipping). I just can't see justifying a final cost of around $150 for 1/5 of a forge that usually goes for $200 to $300. Driving there would cost basically the same. Can one be made? I am always up to a challege and I am not worried about historical preservation of the forge. I have a plan to make multiple style base pans for it and have it to be easliy swappable depending on the project. I will post pictures of what I have as soon as I get them taken and loaded.
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