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Good Morning Ladies and Gents, I seem to have run into a dilemma with a few projects I'm currently working on and need some advice. Had some concept designs that I've been mulling over in my head and finally decided to actually put them into steel. They came out nicely, the problem is knowing what I can coat them in to keep them from rusting/corroding. Looking for something that will hold up for a while, but easy to put on finished pieces. Most of the pieces have moving parts so coating them completely in an Epoxy/Resin would require me to have to coat them previously to assembly, which may prove difficult. Anyways, any advice would be great. Thanks Kermit.

What tips/tricks/advice have you learned as a blacksmith and made your own? (anything from "I drizzle Yankee Candle wax over my coke so my forge smells good" to "Coors light is the best quenching medium")

I've just got my hands on an old mechanical hammer. All the main bearings are fitted with grease nipples. On a different, and very very old hammer, all the main bearings were fitted with wick oilers/cups. Grease always seemed to me a nice thing to catch and trap dust, grit, soot and other nasties. Is there consensus on whether oil or grease is better on particular bearings? Or all? The late, great G. Sarver says, somewhere on these forums, 30wt oil for everything, and he was a man who new what he was about. Your thoughts, hints, tips…?

In one of his latest YouTube videos (seen here), Torbjörn Åhman makes an oil-fired forge using an old burner from a residential furnace. Has anyone here had experience with doing something similar?

Hello this is my first time asking for help on IforgeIron even though i am regularly referring to past forums for advise. I am working on an older Kuhn power hammer it is a K23 from I believe the mid 90s. It is the older style with the cylinder exhaust chamber in the top back of the hammer. So here my problem. There is not enough oil getting to the front cylinder of the hammer. I have adjusted the oiler to fully open and then to just before closed and everywhere in between. What seems to be happening is that most if not all of the oil goes in the back cylinder and into the 3 way valve on the top air passage and strait up to the exhaust chamber. I know this because of the excessive amount of oil draining from this exhaust chamber. I have taken both the tops of the cylinders off to check the condition of the cylinders they look fine. The hammer is also hitting well and doesn't seem to be loosing much air as in the front cylinder doesn't just drop when turned off. Could my oil be to thick? I am using 30 weight non detergent which is what the operating manual suggested. Could there not be enough resist from the exhaust? Is that a thing? This is a great hammer and has probably taken a lot of abuse due to the fact that it is in an educational environment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Nick

Will this concept work? I plan on using waste oil, rotary drum pump, 1/2" tubing, and a brass mister head, along with a conventional propane burner Venturi body.

I found this video while browsing the web, and I didn't see it in the forums here recently, so I figured I would put it up. This gentleman makes knives and treats them with 3-in-1 oil and blues them before sending them out to customers. A bunch of people were discussing best methods and he thought he would do a big sample of what the different methods can do to prevent rusting in a finished blade. Very very interesting watch!

I bought a Buffalo Forge No 616 about a year ago at an auction for $25. Looked decent shape but obviously had sat outside in grass and was rusted. it would not turn so I tried electrolysis on it and that didn't do it so now a year later I have a new plan. I don't have time to pend on this thing so I have mounted it up on my shed wall and oiled every joint and shaft opening that I could see. I then filled up the divot up at the top where the elevation wheel is to the brim.with motor 30W. I am asking for opinions about whether you think this will even work ( and time is not a problem at this pont, I can keep filling it this way for the next six months) or do I need to use the gallon of WD40 like some else suggested. Appreciate all answers.

This forum is great, in particular the business threads. I am a public sculptor in Gainesville, FL and I have only been making iron sculptures to sell for a couple years now so I am still a newbee with most things (like pricing!). The issue I am tackling today is finishing techniques. In the past I have been commissioned to make outdoor sculptures and have used a powdercoating finish on them. Today I am placing a bid on an interior bench sculpture and was thinking I'd explore some more natural finishes like oil to bring out the detail work and iron color (my favorite color). I am just not sure how long this finish will last until it need touch up and what I should tell my clients. Anyone who has sold a medium sized piece (8' x 2' x 2') to a client or museum and used an oil finish have any advise?

i have a canadian forge co. blower that has no oil in it, what should i use for oil?