Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'newbie....need advice'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 3 results

  1. Hey everyone I'm just recently started my adventure into blacksmithing and am looking to upgrade my "old" forge (about 2 weeks old). The old forge was plaster of paris/sand molded around a steel pipe with holes drilled in it and surrounded by bricks. A hairdryer and hose was connected to the pipe for airflow. It was a great little forge for my first experiments into blacksmithing but I was looking to make something a little more portable and longer lasting as the plaster has started to crack. (old forge) My idea is to follow the same general shape of the old one but I am using firebrick instead. I was thinking of carving out the base of the firebrick so that the airflow pipe (tuyere?) sits recessed into the base (and also to carve a hole at the back of the forge for the pipe to stick out). I also have some high temperature refractory mortar (up to 1600c or 2912f), can I use this to line the entire inside of the forge (including the base around the pipe) so that it will last longer? I imagine placing metal and charcoal into the forge on just the firebrick alone will erode it quite quickly as they are very fragile. The entrance of the forge will likely be covered by another fire brick / regular brick on its side so that it creates a lip / barrier so charcoal doesn't fall out. In terms of airflow I am using the same hairdryer. Previously the hairdryer would sit loosely inside a funnel with a hose taped to the smaller opening, the hose is then attached to a very thin aluminium pipe which then went inside the steel pipe in the forge. The reason I did all this was due to the hose originally melting on the forge side and the hairdryer becoming so hot it melted the hose on the other side too. For what ever reason, having it sit loosely in the funnel and adding the aluminium pipe on the other end prevented it from overheating / melting. The new design is a little cleaner, with the hair dryer sitting inside a PVC 90degree bend connected to a PVC pipe. the hose is now sitting in a brass hose fitting that has electrical tape around it so it fits snugly in the PVC pipe. on forge end, I now have a bigger steel pipe (I removed zinc plating from both pipes) and the hose just sits directly in it. I am hoping the the longer pipe, which will extend further out the back of the forge than the old one (shown in photo above the new pipe), will not get hot enough to melt the hose. However the hairdryer now gets extremely hot, even on it's cold setting. I don't want to go back to using the funnel as a lot of air escaped but it might have to do for now. The old pipe just had holes drilled in random areas along and around the pipe (although only half the pipe was above the plaster of paris). Instead of drilling holes all over the pipe, my plan is to use an angle grinder to cut a straight line down the middle of the pipe so the airflow is more consistent along the pipe. Apologies for such a big post, I didn't think I had this much to ask! But I would love any constructive criticism or even advice on what I could do better, what I am over complicating and any better design for my forge. I'm building it in a small form factor just so I can move it around more easily and as I don't have a lot of space in the area where I use it. I would also love any recommendations for a good / cheap option for my airflow! Thanks in advance
  2. Hey everyone, As I'm in lockdown here down under for another month I recently decided to give blacksmithing a crack! Something I've always wanted to do but never had the time to. I've run into a lot of setbacks in my first 2 weeks or so and was hoping to get some advice on what I could do better / how to do things. I tried forging a knife from a billet of 1075 steel I purchased (dimensions 3.2 x 38 x 200mm (0.125 x 1.5 x 8″)). It is quite a thin piece and the idea was that I try draw out a tang and then go on to shape the rest of the blade (was aiming for a Tanto style blade). I'll provide pictures of what it ended up like but I initially began by just hitting a hammer directly downwards onto the metal and I believe that I created 'cold shuts' as the sides folded onto itself. I removed as much as I could with a file and read that to draw out metal, the hammer should hit the metal at an angle, so I started doing that (hitting the edge and then switching to the flat of the metal to prevent cold shuts). While I managed to draw the blade out a bit for the tang, the end is now completely destroyed. The edge of the bar where I worked it is quite thick but tapers to an extremely thin edge and an even thinner mid section (about 0.5mm /0.019685 inches or less). It was so thin I actually lost about 3cm of the bar as it was so thin I just snapped it off as it kept warping and folding whenever I struck the bar. I heated the bar up until orange however it would become a dull red in about 3-4 hits and I would have to put it back in the forge. Is the bar too thin to work with at 3.2mm or 0.125 inches? I currently am using a 3lbs machinist hammer / cross-peen hammer and my anvil is currently a flat mild steel bar attached securely to a roughly 20-25 kilo (44-55lbs) tree stump (proper anvil coming soon). I tried using both the flat face of the hammer and the cross-peen but it felt quite awkward to use the cross-peen, probably due to me doing it wrong. I'm guessing this bar is now a right off and I've got one more bar left and don't even want to touch it without having a bit more knowledge and practice. I would love any tips, advice or even how ya'll would work with the bar. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hello, I live in lake Charles Louisiana which is on the south western side of the state. I am interested in blacksmithing and just need advice on pretty much everything. I need an anvil, forge ect. Does anyone recommend any particular brand for a beginner such as myself. I plan on using a coal forge with a hand crank blower. Anyway, I'll check back later any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advace Semper Fi Eric
  • Create New...