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Found 450 results

  1. Hello there! New member here, me and my dad are in the middle of building a propane tank forge. So far it is all put together, cut open and ready for refractories. Here's our issue: He have some ceramic wool to line the inside, 1" thick. We know that it is better to do 2", and I think we have enough for 2". We Also have 2 5-gallon buckets of unknown refractory cement (We don't know what kind/brand it is, we just know that it is refractory cement). Our original plan was to line the forge with the wool, and then coat it with the refractory. But as I've been reading and looking around, I've heard about rigidizer and that wool insulates better, etc. So we are wondering what we should do. I think we are going to line it and try a thin layer of the cement on the bottom to test the cement and to see how well it adheres and such to the wool. We just need advice and tips, what we should do, etc... We haven't built one of theses before (Obviously) but we have built a brake drum open forge. The other thing we want to do is to use a blower and coal rather then propane because we have a TON of coal. We are making it so we can use coal or we will be able to switch out the fan for a propane burner. We are going to have a rounded bottom in the forge, rather then flat so that when we put coal in it the coal will make a flat bed to put the steel/knives/etc. on top of it. We have put the face of the forge on a hinge so we can open it and clean it out, shovel the coal out, etc. Thoughts on this? The last thing for right now is that we have seen people put a hole in the back of the forge, and we aren't sure if it is for anything other then just long pieces of bar stock, so insight on this would be great. And, literally anything you could tell me about blacksmithing! Any tips, tricks, advice, literally anything would be helpful. We have a shop with lots of tools and machines, and we have both done a bit of blacksmithing, but I want to really expand my blacksmithing knowledge and skill this year, Thanks!
  2. Hi there everyone, just kicking off with the blacksmithing trade hoping to get into it. Slowly collecting tools, made a coal forge the other day. Luckily I picked up this anvil for $150 which has some major damage. Not too sure on how to restore the hardy holes. No idea what's going on with the rivet either. I've been told from about hard facing with a welder and also milling, forming lump of steel to weld on the break. Not too sure yet. From tip of horn to break 650mm Anvil face width 150mm Height 350mm Horn length 300mm Any advice, tips, tricks and info would be greatly much appreciated. Cheers guys.
  3. Does anyone have any information about this item or it’s value. I’m sorry for the horrible picture & the tiller the way. It was my grandpa’s. Located in Des Moines, Iowa. I appreciate your help-tyi!
  4. Jizzle69

    HELP!!

    I first tested my burner with a low pressure bbq regulator and was having the exact problem people said I would whistling, chirping, and back burning in the tube. Got my high pressure regulator today got it all hooked up and I'm having trouble lighting it. I got it lit a couple times but at a way low pressure and with the the shut off valve cracked barely once again since it was barely open having same issue along with it got fairly hot not red or anything but I burnt my finger. I'm confused and trying to not get discouraged but its frustrating
  5. Hello, I'm 23 and signed up maybe 3 min ago. I have 0 "experience" in blacksmithing but I've previously been a welder and metal worker. I grew up on a farm by round hill Alberta for 3/4 of my life and recently dug out an old fire pot forge table from the Bush. Ive simply restored it and have the basics of what I need to start; hammers/ cross and ball peen, 2 sets of tongs, an anvil and coal. I have a general idea of what to do but am lost as to where to start, I've watched alot of videos but they quickly transitioned from basic education to watching masters work with no direction and just fantasy. Once I start looking at the more technical side I realise making as sword is more dangerous then anticipated, I can beat out a rough shape and am skilled with a grinder but as for the heat cycles, the temps, the stresses and everything else you can't see its beyond me. I'm looking for direction and a mentor in a sense, someone to task me and give me a direction and to report back to almost. I was a cadet for 7 years and have heavily wanted to pursue a military of police career, i take order and direction like gospel. I also read alot of forms and this seems to be the "realest" place. No joking or belittling, to the point, informative and kind, I'm very excited to get involved and grow with this community and hobby with hopes to guide and teach newbies of my own. Thanks for reading I'm eager and waiting for your response lol.
  6. Hey Guys, I'm quite new here and wanted to share my finally working DIY burner design (input is always welcome) and want to share my lengthy learning experience with a lot of pictures and examples, so others can learn from my mistake. Where I am located in the Netherlands, where this sort of plumbing for smaller sizes is quite hard to get, which is the reason I built a 1 inch burner. Background information I started my burner with parts-information stated in the description of a YouTube video. I can hear the experienced members thinking, what an idiot, because Indeed I did this without a proper read-up (hindsight: definitely not the best idea). To get this burner working I had to go through a few learning moments, which I see as a great learning experience. To prevent others from making the same mistakes I made I started this post. As it turns out, the dimensions mentioned in the description were completely wrong. The dimensions also differed from what the person was actually using. To get my burner working I needed to do a bit of research and found a lot of information here on I Forge Iron, so thank you all for sharing information and helping others. My learning curve - Burner Version 0.1 I had created the burner to the specs of the video, apart from the air intake and jet mount (more on this later). The video was using a tuna can lid to close the air intake, which I didn't deem safe. My design seemed to work fine, I had the air valve closed off and the flame resembled a big closed Bunsen burner. Opening the air supply turned it to a blue flame. I saw the blue flaming going up and at first thought this required some tuning of the propane pressure or air valve. Reading up I found out that this is best performed inside the forge, due to backpressure and using the forge as a flare.Below are the first images of the version 0.1 burner sizes, air valve, still threaded intake and jet mount + position. At this point I found out that the dimensions of the flare were completely wrong, it was the wrong way around. Needless to say I called myself very stupid that I didn't see this, even though I followed the instruction from the youtube description (hindsight: this should have been the first hint the dimensions could be wrong). After ordering a new end piece and widening the hole in the brick wall I ran some new tests. After the testrun with the new flare and afterwards also with the opened up brick, I achieved a blue jet-like flame, with little distortion. However it was making an air-sucking sound louder than the flame. Shutting of the burner I noticed the flame not shutting of completely, meaning the ballvalve was possibly leaking and turned out to be incorrect. This lead to quite the change in connection as you can see below: Burner Version 0.2 Using a wrong connection on the valve side (one that was advised in the hardware store), the connection was causing a leak, which lead to using a different connector. So after adjusting it and running it again, this time in the forge, I got a blue dragon's breath not too far out of the forge and there was a small sense of accomplishment. The next day however, it turned out this feeling misplaced. The day after, I tried to get the forge to warm up, which turned to a red flame and tube. Obviously something was wrong and this wasn't at all running like any burners I could compare it to. My burner made a loud air-sucking-sound instead of just a jetburner sound and the flame and mixing tube turned red. - continued on next post -
  7. The following is a quick summery of the 55 Forge. More in depth design and discussion can be found on the site. The original 55 Forge was bottom blast. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. The tuyere was a piece of auto exhaust pipe with 1/4 inch holes to accept 1/4 inch round bar in a X pattern to form a grate. Lots of open room for air to move up and into the bottom of the fire. The next test modification was to put a brake drum into the 55 forge as a fire pot. You can see the cone shape to the ash and the rim of the fire pot. The bricks were added to give the fire more depth for the project at hand. Ash will build up to the top of the tuyere in the bottom blast in a fire or two. There is a T configuration below the bottom of the forge that is not shown. The T section is close to the bottom of the forge and the down pipe is 12 to 18 inches long (what ever you have on hand). Clinker is not really a problem due to the size of the tuyere. Just let the fire idle for a minute or two and the clinker will solid up and can be hooked out. Ash will at times fill the down pipe and need cleaned out. I have run this forge using coal dust or breeze. Once the fuel starts to coke ( a couple of minutes into the fire ) there is very little fuel that falls into the down pipe. The next modification was to make the 55 Forge a side blast forge. Just cut a slice in the side of the wall and add an air pipe. The depth of the slice was to the top of a house brick laid on its side. It was available. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. I like this design as it is so simple to build and works. That is an aluminum clothes dryer vent pipe being used to transfer air from the blower to the forge. With the side blast version the ash and any clinker builds up under the fire. On either 55 forge, the cut edges of the metal as they are sharp. You can roll them over, or cut a 2 inch piece of metal from the parent drum, fold it in half long ways, and place it over the cut edge of the metal pan. The 55 forge was developed so that any one in any third world country could have a forge with little or no cost. The forge runs on solid fuel, coal, coke, wood, charcoal, lumbar, pallets, etc. As has been stated many times before, Fuel does not make the fire hot, Air makes the fire hot. If there is a question about how hot, then add more fuel and more air. It can and has reached welding heat. It has also melted the metal if you do not pay attention to what your doing. ( Do not ask how I know this as I was not paying attention.) The 55 Forge is a great design that is simple and works. It is easily modified to adjust the size of the fire pot, the depth of the fire pot, different tuyere configurations, and the list goes on and on. Folks thought a brake drum was needed, so I tried both a brake drum and rotor. Each has advantages and disadvantages and in the end were not required. It simply adds a level of complexity to the system and overcomplicates simple. The fun part of the 55 Forge is make one, use it, modify it as you wish. When you finish there is another 55 Forge on the other end of the drum as a spare. The label on a drum is NOT accurate, it only means that is what the drum contained just before the label was applied. I found a empty drum at a auto repair shop. The label said 5W30 motor oil with a brand I immediately recognized. Somehow the top of the drum was hooved or domed a bit. When I removed the bung plug from the bung hole there was release of pressure and an overpowering aroma of gasoline and other very volatile materials. I ask the shop manager about the drum and he said "Oh that was the one they used for racing fuel last weekend." ALWAYS choose a drum that you can pronounce what it contained before you brought it home. NEVER use anything that throws off heat or sparks when you open a closed container or drum. If in doubt, have someone else cut the drum in half while you go get a burger and fries for the both of you for lunch. The 55 Forge is just a way to get you started quickly, so you can play in the fire while you research and plan on what your second forge design will look like.
  8. After a year using a JABOD forge (using charcoal), I decided to solidify make a steel fire pot. I was tired of having to reform the sides because they'd crumble. So, inspired by the fire pot that Charles R. Stevens showed us in a different topic, I made my own. I work mostly on small items (hooks, leaves, etc.), so I wanted a shape that would conserve fuel as much as possible. This is why I added a slope on the wall opposite the tuyere. A slightly more complex shape but the bottom is only 2" by 3", while the top is 5" by 10". Total height is 6". First I made a cardboard mockup to be sure my plan worked: Everything looked good, so I proceeded with steel. I used pieces from a wood stove I took apart last year. The plates are 3/16" thick. Should be thick enough to last me a good while, considering that I spend less than 10 hours a week. Overall, it took me about 3 hours to cut the pieces, fit and weld them together. I immediately moved it into place in my existing forge. I only had time for a quick test burn. Worked well, although the sides are higher than what I was using by about an inch. It still took less charcoal to fill than the JABOD. Even better, it was much faster and easier to clean up. I should be able to do more complete testing tomorrow and deteemine whether I need to shorten it a bit. Once that is determined, I may add a rim to finish it. Cheers! Arthur
  9. I have acquired i believe, an old large forge bellow. It's large, probably 6 feet tall. I attached pictures. It was in a church,so I was assuming it was some kind of old organ,but after researching, I found forge bellows and I think that's what it is. Im not sure why the church had it,lol. I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the direction to the makers of these. I'd like to find out the history; company name, year made, etc. I would like find out if it is worth anything and if so, who I would contact? I'm so so clueless about where to go with this lol.
  10. Hey guys I just wanted to show y'all my newest forge I just built and tested. It works pretty good but still needs a few things before it's finished. I built it from a piece of tube iron I cut one side off of and I'm gonna put 2 slits in that side so I can slide it down on one end to keep the fuel source in and will make it adjustable for smaller projects. I may add a spot on top of one of the sides to hold the charcoal before it goes into the fire. I still gotta add legs too and I am gonna add a bleeder valve to make the air flow adjustable with a hole in the side of the tuyere that I can put a slide pipe on to make it more adjustable for my hair dryer. But this really worked well when I tested it. Let me know what you guys think.
  11. This is video #2 in the Blacksmith Twist or Basket handle series..
  12. Hi. I built a gas forge from a paint can. A lot of shortcuts were taken to save time and money. Many things were not done quite right according to helpful posts in this subgroup. The forge was lined with a homemade refractory composed of fireclay, grog, perlite, wood ash, and concrete. When it was first built, it could barely weld mild steel. Since it was outside, it eventually rusted through and the refractory collapsed. Even after repairs, it wouldn't weld. Some colleagues wanted to use it, so it looked like time for a new one.
  13. I'm a young kid (15) looking to get into blacksmithing. The issue is that I lack the instruction to do so, as well as a forge. I'm wondering if there is anyone in South West Washington or the greater Pacific Northwest that would be willing to help me out. I have most of the materials to fabricate a forge using a 20 lb propane bottle following Wayne Coe's instructions (excluding the burner (requires welding) and burner parts), however, I'm severely limited by my tools, lacking both a welder, and a plasma cutter as well as a shop of any sort. If there is any way in which someone would be willing to lend me a hand and help me fabricate a forge (I will of course pay for materials costs as well as time) that would be greatly appreciated. General advice or apprenticing of any shape is of course more than welcome. I'm happy to pay in cash or barter (my families owns a creamery) for any services that could be provided, whichever is preferable. My apologies if this is in the wrong directory I'm still very new to the forum. Thanks, -Will
  14. Hey everyone! I built my first forge ever yesterday out of some bricks in an old grill. I’m using a black iron pipe and a hair dryer with a shop vac attachment as my air source. Charcoal is the fuel. Mid anyone has any suggestions or recommendations please let me know what I need to do to forge properly and safely. Thanks Dallas
  15. Hey guys, first time poster, sorry if in wrong category. I've bough this small anvil for 15€ but I can't figure out how to secure it as it has a spike on the base. I've done some research and found nothing like it, any help will be appreciated.
  16. Hey everyone my name is Dallas. I am from Southeast Texas and no I am not named after the Cowboys. Yesterday I built my first forge out of an old grill a roommate said I could have and some bricks from Home Depot. I have been wanting do do this craft for several years and didn’t know how or where to start. So I thought the best way to learn is to fail so don’t hold back when correcting me. Thank you for your time and I look forward to any input so that I can forge properly and safely. Thanks Dallas
  17. I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets a little too warm for dope to work correctly, but I want to know what you guys do anyway. My concern is dope getting the regulator, gauge, and possibly the burner all fouled up. My other concern is having a gas leak and potentially losing my shop and/or some parts that I was born with. I know that it's a touchy subject, so I'll state for the record that I take full responsibility for everything that goes right or wrong in my shop and on my property. I'm only asking what you folks do for your venturi forges. I am not asking for you to tell me what to do. If you know of a resource I can use to get that information, I would greatly appreciate that as well. Thanks, Patrick
  18. So, I bought a forge. It's lined with ceramic wool and no refractory (I believe) is that okay?
  19. I have a champion 145-18 forge (the round little guy) and the fan inside of the blower has a "blade" broken off. I have the broken piece but don't see a way to repair it. Does anyone know where i can get a replacement or something else that will do the job?
  20. Hi all! I quickly progressed from coal to gas in a matter of trying coal once. we dont agree. Anyrate. Disclaimer: I am 99% self taught so..I followed the plans laid out by a youtuber i made a gas forge and burners out of an old propane tank and some pipe. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiSgR-IJMyk) I am quite proud of myself i learned how to stick weld also. After a couple of small projects (simple tons, knife and Kukhri) im getting more comfortable really cranking the heat. I have since then got a fire brick to go inside and i stack on the backside of the forge. I am running a 30 psi regulator. Being said when i light the forge i steadly increase the gas, when i hear popping i increase it more. At one point just recently i was unable to increase my gas flow and i kept hearing the popping. A couple questions: What do i need to do to stop this? get a higher regulator? I assume my forge was too hot? I also assume if i continue to let the popping happen that is bad? Thanks in advance.
  21. Greetings! I wanted to see if the experts on this forum might catch any red flags that may be causing combustion issues with my forge. I shot a quick video demonstrating the issue. The problem starts 3 mins, 10 secs in: I built this based mostly on the David Hammer Super C Forge and burner design (minus the side access slot). It has been running stable for months, but now after running for around 30 mins, the point of combustion shifts from the interior of the forge, to the end of the flair (about 1 inch inside the refractory). I get less time if I run it hotter. The burner port leaves about 1/4 inch of space around burner flair. Before shooting the video, I has run for a little over 30 mins. I let it cool for about 15 mins to capture the transition. Don't know if I need to tune the burner, if there are issues with my refractory, or something else that I might not have considered. I've been doing this for around 6-7 months so my knowlege is pretty limited. Any thoughts on where I might be going wrong here? Thank you for any input you might have.
  22. In the search for itc 100 replacements(price) I had learned the original formula was near 70 percent zircopax and 30 percent kaolin. When shopping i came across a high zirconia kiln wash from "The Ceramic Shop" and went to thinking. It has already been tested and formulated and its cheaper per pound.... So i bought a box and some zircopax and kaolin. My recipe was one cup wash, a third cup zircopax and one sixth cup kaolin. The mixture dried rock hard and seems to be very durable.
  23. Believe it or not, my very first attempt at hand making some Damascus didn’t work perfectly. So here I am looking for someone to help me through this! So I’m using a single burner propane forge, one side is blocked off by a half inch thick metal plate and the other side is slightly contained by some red house bricks. (I’m wondering if that’s my problem over all) 1.) Had a buddy weld together together a few pieces of 1080 and 15n20 2.) Got things to roughly 1600 degrees, and applied 20 mule team borax to the sides with the edges. 3.) Back in the forge to what I would honestly call roughly 2000 degrees. (In the daylight of sunset, the forge and stock were almost entirely white) 4.) Over to the anvil with some relatively firm blows. Turning it over a time or two. Didn’t really know what to expect or feel particularly sure of anything going on, so I repeated the process without borax. After I ground one of the edges, it’s basically entirely delaminated. Hoestly delamination is probably the wrong phrase because it was never laminated in the first place. If anyone had any quick tips or fixes it would be awesome! I know how much knowledge is on here and I’ve learned a ton from all of you already!
  24. Anyone know how I could make a Cinder-block coal forge?
  25. Does anyone know anything about Maxon Premix Burners? Someone gave me this and they said it's a gas forge. I have no use for it so I'm planning to sell. Any idea how much it's worth? It does get power it's just too rusty to work. Thanks!