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TL;DT- I have vise, no work, long time, grandpa, welding attempts to fix. When I was attempting a couple different electrical welding styles since my TIG is down a few more days, I had a ARC jump at the start and then a little spatter damage right at the edge of my screw box. Now, I could cut the broken tab back off, then carefully attempt to remove a little material on the box with a bandsaw possibly, but I'll be back to possibly getting a different rod type tomorrow and having to re weld the pieces, build a cage around it that eliminates the tab for now until my TIG is up, or bevel the material and use JB Weld like machinable material I use for body restoration and some non load bearing parts. I've got the screw to go back all the way thru, but I haven't bolted everything back together because of the oil and such all over the vise. I had to kinda work the screw back and forth, but I've gotten it all the way through the piece. But it's taking lite beating or handle extension to tighten it or loosen to a lesser extent. My question is, if I run this in and out a few times, will it start to wear the threads just enough to clean it up to what a typical vice feels like? This has actually been a xxxxx to tighten as far back as I can remember it, but it's been broken. So I assumed fixing it would cure a lot of that. I need to bead blast the rest I think and then paint and oil, or maybe oiled cast will just look better? The way this has been going, I'm gonna go pick up Ni55/Ni99 rod tomorrow possibly. Otherwise wait for my new regulator to come or look into getting my Oxy/Acy tanks filled. Idk. The screw box is more where my concern is at mostly now. Run screw in and out and it'll get cleaner and easy up with some in and out?
I've been using Michael Porter's Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns as plans to build my gas forge and burner. The plans recommend I use a Tweco .030 or .035 inch MIG welding contact tip, 1-1/2-inch long. I have no experience with these parts, and have no idea what the importance is of the length, the taper, etc, and I've been unable to find this part anywhere. The drawings in my plans show a tapered MIG tip (shown in attachment), but I've had difficulty finding anyone who carries any contact tips with tapers. Most parts I've been able to find have a rounded end. Does the overall length of the MIG tip, the inside diameter, and the taper on the end affect performance? If not, I'll just buy one that I can find readily, and not have to go searching for this exact piece.
Hey folks, Once again it is Steven. Hope yall had a wonderful weekend! Today we are going to be discussing MIG welding and the roll the MIG welder plays in the blacksmith shop. I know many smiths who are compleetly apposed to keeping any welder in their shop, I also know many who couldn't live without one. I guess it is mostly prefrence. 10 minutes on learning how to make a wire welder work or 2-3 weeks on perfecting fire welding. :P Me being me (one impatient son of a gun) I like to get things as fast and as easly as humanly possible. Here are some videos on MIG welding, and PLEASE share your opions on electrical welding VS MIG welding. This video covers MIG welding Basics
I recently heard that industry metalworkers, on their lunchbreaks would make small toys for their families purely out of building layers of mig wire. I've been trying it myself and have made a few coil pots but can't find any images or information about the history. Does anyone know anywhere I may be able to kickstart my research. Many thanks, Josh