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Found 5 results

  1. Ok, so most of you would be familiar with the process of case hardening mild steel/iron to form high carbon steel. I had a thought (and we all know how dangerous that is) to use the case hardening technique to adjust the levels of alloying elements in steel. So here's my rough outline of the process that I'm thinking of: 1) Let a piece of steel (any kind, preferably scrap. would be easiest in bar form) sit in a normal camp fire for a good few hours, possibly repeat the process multiple times. I've found that when I have done that, a lot of scale is formed on the surface which when chipped and scraped away, leaves a very black, malleable piece of what I'm assuming is wrought iron. This is used to remove any pre-existing carbon and alloying elements in the steel. (This step can be skipped by just starting with wrought iron bars). 2) Use rough sand paper to scratch the surface of the bar. This increases the surface area of the metal which in theory should allow for a faster reaction (My grade 11 chemistry coming into play) 3) Collect the alloying elements you desire to use, if you're unsure of what you need to make a certain type of steel, you can google the steel composition and elements for the respective steel online. 4) Sand down the alloying elements and collect the filings. You will need the small particles to increase the surface area of the mixture. Depending on the size of the iron bar, you will need quite a lot of filings. This step can be skipped by buying the alloying elements in granulated form, generally pottery stores and firework supply stores will sell metal powders for glazing and firework stars. 5) Measure out the alloying powders by weight for the respective steel you wish to make, then mix the powders with non-raising flour, salt and water. This will create a gooey slurry. 6) Cover the iron bar with the mixture and let it dry. Then once the paste is dry, cover with clay and let that dry. 7) Place in your furnace/forge to heat up. I'm not sure for how long, maybe a few hours once it's red hot. You want the iron bar in the core to heat up a lot. 8) Take the clay pod out once it's finished heating and break out the iron. Quench the new bar in either water or oil or brine, whichever you want. The theory behind this idea is that as the clay pod heats up, the iron will heat to a white/bright orange and the alloy metals will melt and mix onto the semi liquid iron bar. However, this process would only affect the outer layer of the iron bar, so you would either need to use a thinner piece to get full penetration, or you could draw out the bar, fold it over itself and then forge weld it together, like making a Damascus billet. This would result in the alloyed outer layer being mixed in throughout the final bar. So what do you guys think? Would this work, or is it a pipe dream? Also if anyone has a similar process mentioned in the past please feel free to direct me to it to read over. Thanks for your time - White Nomad
  2. Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build Here are the pictures of my Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build, made using a Mole Hand Grinder found on the internet (which has a 1 to 10 gear ratio), some old side pannels off a PC, a few small rivets, some protective steel corners that came with a kitchen worktop and some 12mm Aluminium angle iron. Here are the picture's of the grinder on its own. The back piece with the right angled brackets. Starting to rivet together the fan blade using 12mm aluminium angle iron. Cutting the brackets to size and drilling the holes for the rivets. After riveting the first part of the fan case together. I then ran out of rivets but decided to continue using cardboard to check everything would work alright. The rivets I needed arrived and so the rest of the fan surround went on as well as the bolts to hold the front panel on. Here is the fan blades and mounting disk, its not perfectly balanced so does 'wobble' abit but it should be fine for the amount I will be using it. And here is the 'almost' finished blower. I ran a line of bathroom chalk around the joins on the inside of the case to cover any small gaps and the bolts hold the front on tight. I don't own a hole saw large enough to make the 80cm dia hole in the front so lots of small holes with have to do for now. All that remains is to find a piece of tubing to connect the blower to the forge and then try it out. The blower seems to be providing a reasonable amount of airflow although I think it isn't recieving enough airflow from the holes in the front. Ill try to take a video when its working and post a link to this thread. This blower has probably cost me between £40-£50 and around 30-40 hours of time, I'm a pretty slower worker but when your doing something you enjoy the time really doesn't matter. Buying a hand cranked blower in okay condition would have most likely cost £60+ but I wouldn't have learned anywhere near as much as I did by doing it myself. My original inspiration came from this thread here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/22816-home-built-hand-blower/ If anyone has any suggestions or advice, or wants to ask any questions then by all means feel free. Thanks for reading and hopefully there isn't too many pictures, I know how much you guys enjoy them. Tom
  3. I use a very, very dirty coal. however, i can get it for $10.00 per 100#. So, brake drum forge does not work, clinker clogs the grate in minutes. so, without further adieu, the Trough style 55 side blast with chimney. Thoughts? ideas? suggestions? also, for updates about the building of this, check my blog in the blogs area, Toolception; Claw to peen. Thanks! click on the image to zoom in. thumbnail is quite small
  4. Okay yall, Lookin' for a good idea for my awosome mom for christmass. I'm kind of having a creative brain fart; can't come up with anything nice. Well she likes spinning, kniting, croshiting and other yarn stuff. She also likes outdoors mountians hiking. Mainly just looking for something nice to give to her. She did take me to Mississippi to take a class from Brian Brazeal, so I really want to make something. Any ideas yall got PLEASE TELL! Thanks, Steven Lakesideforge
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