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Showing results for tags 'hot cut'.
Found 6 results
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So here's some results from my latest adventure in hot cutting 1" bar. Other than missing my saw mark (sigh..) my friend and I cut this pretty efficiently! It took a single heat and didn't mess up my hot cut made from the chisel-y end of whatever the end of this was. Come to think of it, how did I cut this originally...? Ignoring the torn up anvil (it was cheap as dirt during the plague and rings like a bell) here's the result of my hot cut. Pretty satisfied with it, but I'm not sure about the little burr on it. Came out worse on the other piece, but I just ground it off after a ridiculous attempt at hot-filing it off (fuel costs too much for *that*). Any way to avoid the burr? Or is not worrying about it and just having my apprentice grind this off with the belt sander the best course of action?
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Hey all, I have been stalling about making proper tools, and decided to try a hot cut Hardy tonight. This was made from one of the largest crow bars I've ever seen with just a chisel, a 3 lb cross pien from HF, and a 180# Trenton. I had to upset it for a good 20 min to get to be larger than the size of my Hardy hoIe. I so wish I had a striker, as the tapering took so many blows from my 3lb hammer. I would love to see all your hot cut hardies as a comparison! Any and all advice or comments are welcome. Brent -
It is my first hardy, actually my first tool. I have started with a 1" round bar 40" long of 1045. I have tapered it down to 3/4" to fit my anvil and it slides in to about 1.5 ". The rod is too tall to upset on my anvil so I need to cut a piece off. Q1. how much do I need above the shank? 3-4 inches or more? -
Hello All, I apologize if this is not the correct room to post this question in or if the answer is extremely obvious. I started this craft a few months ago and have searched far and wide for a good tutorial that explains how to forge a bottom fuller hardy tool. I have seen a few videos on youtube, but they all seem to be using power hammers. Like most beginners I do not have a power hammer, but I am in the process of building a striking anvil. With that said, could someone point me in the right direction on this forum to a good tutorial for forging a bottom fuller? Everything I search for seems to be images or descriptions of what people have forged. It really seems strait forward, but I would like to know what people use for stock at the start and the steps or little bits of experience that could be shared to help me do this right the first time. Judging from the massive amount of posts and experience that has congregated here I am sure more than one person will be able to point me in that direction. Thanks in advance and I look forward to some feedback on some of my future projects.
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I found this in my moms garage. It was badly rusted so I soaked in vinegar for about a week. I had the intention of resetting the bevel and using it as a hatchet, but I notice the eye is shaped for a hammer handle and the hammer face is flat like a forging hammer. I wonder if it could be better used as a hot cutting tool? here's more pics. Let me know what you think. Not sure what type of steel it is. -
Got another item off the to forge list over the weekend! forged myself a Brazeal style hot cut hardie with tapered shank and curved blade. did most of it solo as I was starting with just 3/4" sucker rod (4130), which is not terribly difficult to forge. had to enlist some help to forge the fullers and strike on the flatter because I ran out of hands. it is actually as small as it looks, my anvil's hardie is 5/8" so it had to be pretty small to fit. unfortunately because I started with a piece that I had previously squared up for an unrelated project I ended up with a much narrower waist than I had anticipated and it sits right at the lower edge of the fuller, which I don't think is ideal. not catastrophic if I have to make another one, just more practice :) still need to file the edge, and beyond making the curve uniform on the belt grinder and knocking the remnants of the previous ragged cut from the tip of the shank everything is wire wheeled as forged. comments and criticism welcome, always willing to learn. question for anyone though: what exactly is the purpose of the fuller between the top of the shank and where the blade springs? I included it largely because that's how Brian's are made, but does it have an intended function that I am overlooking? Thanks for looking!
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