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Found 19 results

  1. Here is a design for a 42 inch belt grinder. This is my general design but there are no measurements, I plan on doing the measurements when I have the 42 inch belt so I can use it to see what I need exactly. The frame is to be made of 2x4s I do not have a welder available to me. Questions: What feet per min should I have for the highest setting? How strong does this need to be? I wouldn't think a 1/2 horse motor would put a lot of stress on it. Any tips? I haven't made one of these before. thank you
  2. Hey all! So I got some awesome advice regarding side blast forges ans have settled on a design for that (will post pics and updates later) but now I'm looking at bellows. I don't want to use a blower and would prefer a traditional bellows but havent really found any good info online about materials for making them. What are some alternatives to leather that I can use to make some large bellows for my furnace?
  3. Hello all, I'm a long time reader first time poster. I've been getting more into blacksmithing and have been wanting to make a better anvil than the short hunk of railroad track I've been using. I have access to about twenty feet of track and have been researching how to make a better anvil out of it. I have two ideas sketched out and was hoping for some feedback. (Sorry it's side-ways) The first idea i took from a video series It uses two sections of rail (blue) welded together and filled with weld (green) on top. A tool steel plate (pink) is welded on top and then a box (red) is welded on the bottom and filled with lead (grey) to add mass. I'd fill the section inside the rails with lead as well. From what I understand the lead would only add mass to the anvil, and would not be akin to solid steel all the way through. But I figure it can't hurt. Especially if it's cast into place and completely enclosed with steel caps so it can't rattle around and turn into a 90# dead blow mallet. My other idea is an evolution of the first. This use three sections of track (blue). Two upright sections welded at the base supporting a third placed upside-down and nested into the others. All three would be welded substantially at every point they touch. Again a box (red) would be welded on the base and all voids filled with lead (grey). The top would be filled with weld (green) and ground flat, with a tool steel plate (pink) on top. The green weld on top is exaggerated a great deal. My thought is that this second design would provide a wide surface (which maybe I don't need, given a long anvil?) supported straight down through three track webs. Though the lead in these designs doesn't rebound the way steel does, of course. I'm thinking that if it is encapsulated in steel with nowhere to go, it can't act to much like a dead blow mallet and defeat the purpose of adding all that mass. What do you all think? Will one of these combined with stout attachment to a large, heavy log-stand planted a few feet into the ground make a decent anvil? Or am I nutter? .
  4. So finally stopped messing around and got my coal forge setup. This is the basic design. I used my old brake rotors to create a dead air space between the non fire bricks. All black pipe was used in the construction, except where PVC is noted. Still working on a baffle system for the top vent hole, but figured it would work for now. The grate is the end of an long lost hand meat grinder. Was lost in the move but this little guy stuck around. More for the cause I suppose. I though for a little bit about sealing up the gaps, but decided to leave them for now. Would like expert advice on this if at all possible. Have a cheap mig welder, ~$90, with low and high settings. No gas, just flux core wire. Few tacs and I felt ready to go. For the underside I placed a number 10 can filled with ~6in on water under the open ash dump. Plan on setting up a full dump system in the future. The coal I'm using came from a ebay purchase. 25lbs for $25, Shudder. I now can get anthracite from Tractor Supply for $0.15/ lbs. I hesitantly call this Nut sized coal? Mini candy bar for reference. Blower source is a leaf blower. I find out later that this may be too much for this, but I adjust the best I can. I start a small fire according to information found here. Get some coals, build up and pile and start the blower. Initially there is a lot of smoke, which I knew to expect, from the new coal. It gradually subsided, however I notice that the whole forge needed to get smoke off, took about 20 min all told. No one called the fire department so all to the good. I shortly noted a small flaw in my forge placement. The exposed beams in the background, while not getting hot, did cause me concern. I took the precaution and placed a long piece of metal on the wall. I furthermore placed a piece on the top, attempting to make a temporary hood, until a better solution could be made. I ran the forge for another 30 min or so. Noted good white heat in the heart, and took off the air to let the forge die down. I then, after all color had disapeared, turned the pot onto a steel bottom of a air conditioner and poured water over the coal. Just want to minimize any chance of a problem. Things I need to do and questions. 1. Make an adequate vent system 2. Make pan to fit over forge for holding additional coal/ work. 3. Find more appropriate source of air to feed forge. Questions: 1. I have a metal pan from a disassembled air conditioner. Its decent weight and I want to use as my pan, but i'm concerned about possible galvanized steel. Have not preformed a magnet test, but did take off a layer of paint and left outside to see if it would rust. If so, ill use it as my pan for the top of forge. I welcome any questions or comments. You guys are a font of info and I would be forever grateful.
  5. Hi I am Rocken Mike I started forging my own knifes and blades last year and I have been having a great time doing it. I have looked for power hammers and all are too big or too expensive so I checked out a few You Tube videos and built my own It works better than I was hoping for. My biggest expense was the treated 6 X 6 post I used for construction it took 2 8' X 6" X 6" treated post. Anybody with a little skill and a welder and a circular saw and a drill can build this cheep. I got the bearing from a local motor repair shop and the pillow block bearings same place. The recoil spring is from a set of porch swing springs the rest was from my shop. This was a simple build with easy to find parts with a budget in mind. I would recommend anchoring the base to the floor with the force of the hammer it wants to walk around a bit. So I will share this pictures of it completed.
  6. I'm new here, but wanted to share the anvil I made with you folks.
  7. Hey all, Let me preface with: 1) I am happy to find a cool forum like this, and 2) I am very new to the craft, as in, I've always wanted to, but have never done it. I have only watched about a hundred hours of video and read a bunch online. I know that does NOT take the place of actually doing it. So I have been wanting to make my own DIY homemade forge and started looking around at steel recycle, scrapyards, etc. I got turned away from a couple (they just didn't have what I needed), but they were both pointing me in the right direction. I finally, and with their help, found a place that was like, "yeah, go back and see what you can find and you can just have it." So I ended up walking away with an old brake rotor, a steel wheel (15"), and a leaf spring. "Awesome find for free!" I thought. It's a good thing I didn't bring a truck back there and didn't have to walk the 250 yards carrying everything. My question is: should I go ahead with the rotor to build my forge? Or a drum? Or the wheel? Rotor details: About 4" deep Inside diameter: 8" (mostly), 9.5" at the top 0.75" I plan on inserting it into a metal 4-wheel cart (w/ locking wheels! ) So would a brake drum be better? It would be bigger, so more coal, coke, etc. But is bigger better? I am not looking to do smaller knife stock at this point. I am looking for what would be better for all around blacksmithing; utilitarian, artistic, whatever. I don't have a drum to compare it to here, but for the wheel... Wheel details: 15" steel Many many holes Again, I plan on inserting it into a metal 4-wheel cart (w/ locking wheels!) I don't think I've ever seen a wheel forge before... My problem with the wheel, if I were to use it instead of the rotor or a drum, is that it has so many holes (side holes, not center) that are lower than what I would use for the blower section. I will include a picture and it won't probably show what I mean right here, but maybe you can see what I mean. I would have to weld in a circular plate for that part outside the hub that dips down. Here's the thing, I don't have a welder nor do I know how. I plan on get a starter welding set up in the next month so maybe this could be a good first project?? And if it's crap, oh well. Start over, no big deal. Local biz plug: a plug for the xxxxxxxx that gave me the free hardware? And not to mention the awesome customer service: xxxxxxxx link removed. xxxxxxx! I've gotten my tires there for seven years now and they xxxxxxx xxxxxxxx in not only their service, but prices! xxxx xxxx! Anyway, now they also gave me free xxxx so they definitely qualify as xxxxxxxx.... Other than being a customer, I have no affiliation with them, they just rock. What do you all think? Rotor, drum or wheel? Sorry, that was a lot longer post than I expected, but I hope it got most of my details across. IForgeIron is a G rated Family Forum. Inappropriate language will not be tolerated.
  8. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could make something that would be half as good that would offset the price to buy and ship online. Forge I'm building is just a small portable propane forge, lined with 2" of Kaowool. Also , talked to someone at this pottery place few times and they didn't even know what ITC 100 was ... Haha Thanks!
  9. Well you've probably seen the Rusty or the Dusty, so I call this one the Woody. I do both wood and metal work, so I thought it would be fun building a power hammer out of both. I haven't hammered any metal yet, but it seems to be running pretty good. Let me know what you think. I have to figure out how to copy the link proper. Worked when I cut and pasted it in the address bar.
  10. Hi, first post. I've read a lot on IFI and done a number of searches since joining. Need a different idea... I found a 120lb chunk of steel at a recycle place. Some kind of construction bracket? It has a nice surface and the top is 2" thick. I radiused a few edges. It used to have a 3" round hole in the top. I decided I wanted a hardy hole, so with some advice from the folks on a well known welding forum, I cut 1" square holes in two pieces of 3/8" plate, sandwiched them, and welded them into the hole. So that part is only 3/4" thick. I have a coal forge I built from a rusted out water pressure tank and a Silverado brake drum. Little better than a rivet forge but useful. Used it yesterday for the first extended time period (not just a "test run"), and realized quickly I would really like a horn. I'm looking for a decent anvil at a reasonable price (ha). Also rather not spend a lot while I am testing out this hobby. In the mean time, I plan to use this ASO of mine. I would like to add a horn to it. There are cone hardy tools, and if they would stay in place and not rattle about, I expect that would work. But I used one in a class and it was tricky. Not like a horn. More like just for truing up. I found a "viking anvil" online. It has a stake on it. Don't know if it would fit in the 1" hardy hole. It is cast, but no other information about it on the company's website. I think he casts them himself. I expect I can't mention the company, but if you search for "viking anvil" and go to the last post on the blade smith forum thread that comes up, you'll find it. Weighs 19 lbs. I guess that is better than a hardy hole cone for my purposes. Might be heavy enough... Can't weld it in place or I lose my hardy hole. Has anyone any experience with this one? Been looking for a while for something suitable at the recycle yard. Nothing yet. A blacksmith I met here mentioned forging a sledge hammer head into a horn. Maybe, if I could hold it in place (no), and difficult on my soft iron ASO. I can make small bicks from 1" round stock, but that will rattle around, too. I really want something more like a horn. Best idea might be patience. Other ideas? -Q
  11. Team, I just acquired a 300lb block of steel about 2 1/2 inches thick. Only slightly dents with small ball peen hammer. Should I try case hardening or leave it alone? Suckered tings like a bell and has great bounce back already.
  12. I'm thinking about converting my Central Machinery (harbor freight) 6X48 belt sander into a 2X72 grinder. I think the motor is on its last leg because it's bogging down much faster than I remember, and I know there's a lot of work involved, but I don't have much money for the darn thing because I fund my shop through part time shop sales. I don't exactly know where to start on this project, but I figure y'all are the best group of people to ask. Seems like a bunch of you have done home-built 2X72 jobs, and I really think the conversion would increase my productivity and allow me to work to my fullest potential. What are your thoughts? Is this project going to be more expensive than it's worth, considering the crappy quality of Harbor Freight tools? Is there an economical way to do a weld-free build? (I don't have a welder). Any and all advice is welcome.
  13. Hi, I'm looking to build a 72 inch vertical forge with minimal volume. Does anyone have any advice on design? My basic plan is to use a steel pipe (8 inch diameter) lined with 2 inches of Kaowool. This will provide a 4 inch diameter mouth that runs the length of the pipe, which will give me enough room to hang longer pieces for a heat treat soak. I'm not looking for forging heat, but definitely need to get thicker steel to critical temperature for heat treat. I'm thinking about using a 3-burner system, evenly spaced along the length of the pipe to try to keep my heat even but I'm concerned that I'll end up with nasty hot spots around the burners. Is there a way to even out the heat better? Is 2 inches of Kaowool enough to provide efficient operation? Any and all advice is welcome! Thanks!
  14. Hi guys, i´ve finally finished my first vise. Its made from 5x5cm and 4,5x4,5cm square slit tubes. Bolt is 20mm wide with 2 nuts welded to the base. Jaws are made from 5mm thick plates welded to 3x4cm rectangle slit tubes. Vise should clamp 17,5cm wide items. Viktor
  15. Recently I was given a piece of A36 mild steel 2" x 12" x 12". I am contemplating making a small swage block out of it. I don't have access to a milling shop or any fancy tools, just basics like drill-press, porta-band, 4" grinder and simple everyday handyman tools. I'm wondering if it's a reasonable project to tackle with such limited resources. Though one 'resource' I have in abundance (some might even say overabundance) is determination (same ones might call it stubbornness). So if I do tackle this, I won't give up on it easily. I'm out of town for the week, but if any interest or ideas are still here, I'll try to post a pic of the steel with my rough draft ideas of shapes chalked on Saturday.
  16. I just wanted to share the pics of my homemade adobe lined charcoal forge. I had a wild hair last fall, so put it together then, after becoming disgusted with the cost of propane for my regular dual burner beast. Since I was making one anyway, I could design it to handle longer pieces as I principally forge blades. This unit is handmade, including the hand cranked blower unit. Yes, I just used what was laying around... :D :ph34r: The forge unit is made from an old electric roaster pan, and two steel tv trays which I chopped a side off and set in a 'V' shape and lined with adobe. I know the adobe will crack and flake, but it is easily patched or replaced. No biggie. The tuyere is 1" black pipe, and the air inlet is a 1 1/2" nipple. I designed it so that I can remove the end pipe cap easily for cleaning. Truthfully, if I had to I could line this sucker with ordinary dirt due to my design. Here is my hand cranked blower. As you can see, it is 'V' belt driven with the main drive pulley being an old bicycle rim. I brazed nuts to the rim to attach a handle, and the handle is a bolt covered with loose fitting hard rubber. Believe it or not this unit is all ball bearing construction, as I sunk two bearing races into the wood support for the blower driveshaft. Sitting on the end is a quicky steel reducer cone I made as an adapter from the blower output to the tuyere inlet pipe. I believe the fan itself came from a dryer, but don't quote me on this. I happened to have it on a shelf. The cage is made from an old large popcorn tin I cut down. This unit actually works great, and develops quite a bit of air output for very little cranking effort. I just thought you guys might enjoy this redneck project I threw together.
  17. Hello and good day to everyone, Here is a few pictures of the forge that took me over a year to complete. Inside dimensions are, 13" wide, 10" high, 24" deep. Both doors have 4" X 6" openings in them. I am running 2 hybrid 3/4" T-rex burners. There is 3" of thermo blanket (3,000 degree) on the inside coated with ITC100. The bottom is also 3,000 degree rated, but is cast-able refractory. The doors are also lined with cast-able refractory with fire bricks that form the opening, also coated with ITC100. I finally installed a type K thermo coupler in the side (should see it in a few photos). Below the gauges is where the pyro meter goes (not in photos). And a few shots of my to small working area. Please let me know what you think. Thank you, Greg
  18. Hey Folks, I´d like to ask for your advise on a project I want to start soon. My shop is half oudoors so I have a roof over the head but literally no walls. Until now I have always had my forge standing just free and hoped for good wind... But as you can imagine I take quite a lot smoke and dust and I mustn´t damage my body with stuff like that at my age. So I want to install a smoke hood over my forge. The only problem is that I only have a very limited budget of about 180$. So I guess I have to take a DIY-solution. After some research and discussions with some fellow blacksmiths I came to the conclution that this design (I know I ain´t very good at drawing...) would give me the biggest bang for my buck: This is my shop: And this is the design I´d like to try: The hood will be built from an old oil barrel, cut out on the front and bent upside to form a guiding-shield. On top of that the chimney will be installed reaching through the roof of my forge with min. 8" diameter. Would you also advise me to do it like that or do you have a solution (any construction plans) that might be more (cost)effective? I´d be very happy about any advise you give me! - Daniel
  19. Ok, so I've been hunting for an anvil in Las Vegas for almost two months with no luck... So I was hoping someone can give me a tip on where to look and where to go (in Las Vegas) to try finding an anvil. OR if any body who lives in Vegas either is selling their anvil to get a new one, has an old anvil, or even a make shift anvil that they are willing to part with. I'm trying to get into iron work and blade making. so if anyone has any info on an anvil (a real one or a makeshift, but still functional, anvil) in vegas please post on this or message me. Thank you for the people who took the time to read this and to comment.