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Showing results for tags 'hidden tang'.
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I make a few knives from time to time. Mostly hidden tang. The shelf life of most epoxies (or maybe after opening) is pretty short and I always seem to be buying another while three quarters of the last one goes in the trash. I have researched cutlers resin and that seems like an easy solution, but I may have come up with an easier one. While in the process of burning in the tang of a new knife, I noticed that after pushing the hot tang into the handle I had to put the blade into a vice and use a hammer to get the handle off. I use well aged hickory for the handles. Very tough and stable. So I am going to skip using any adhesive and see how it stands up. I can always go back and use some kind of adhesive. As an alternative I may just let the end of the tang protrude through the handle and cleat it. I have a few old Chinese cleavers and they are all made with cleated tangs. Some are over fifty years old and still absolutely solid. The better ones have a small washer and the back of the tang goes through it and is peened in place.
I'm looking at making a quillon dagger to the specifications of the ABS Master Smith certification (which brings up a whole can of worms that I don't want to get into on this post). I was looking at pictures of WIP online and noticed that a few of them had a step down kind of thing going on with the tang. Is there a reason for this? I've been making knives for years and haven't seen this technique used. Maybe I'm just living under a rock!
The last year or so, I've attended a couple of classes, and at one occation forged with a very skilled "freestyle" smith (he prefers only hammer and anvil). He could make a knife in a couple of minutes, and it was flawless. Even so, most of my forging has been experimenting on my own. With slow but steady improvement. The latest forge weld-related improvements include: -Going charcoal, thus removing the variable that comes from me not knowing if the coal is good enough and me not being good enough tending the fire. -Making the hearth deeper. -"packing", that is fluxing and going to almost welding temperature and so doing an initial cleanup. Also the laminates come closer prior to the weld itself. So now it looks like I can make a quite consistent weld. But when I draw out a hidden tang on a knife, it almost always fails. My suspicion is that I'm not forging squarely enough, so when I see it starts to diamond and try to straighten it, it fails. So now I'm back to forging nails, practicing square. my question: -Should a welded tang withstand squaring up from a slight diamond, or would the shear forces always make the weld fail? Is the weld simply not good enough?