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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all. This is my first post...anyway. I'm restoring a old axe head for a friend the blade is going to need alot of grinding to get the pitch of the blade right. Iv heard that that will make the edge prone to chipping if not heat treated properly after. The butt of the axe is horably mushroomed but I want to use the mushrooming to make a good hammer head. I don't know how to heat treat it to get a good solid edge aswell as a sturdy hammer head on the other side? Any advise, comments or questions would be much appreciated!
  2. A friend and I are working on forging some Viking style forging hammers using a wrought iron "core" with forge welded faces for both the large face and cross peen. I have an old, rusty 1 1/2" x 1/2" x 18" gage block that I plan to sacrifice to use for face material. I hot cut a section off last night and quenched it in water at a dull orange heat and it hardened up wonderfully, but if anyone has any idea what the typical steel type is for these I'd appreciate more accurate information so I can address proper heat treatment. Thanks
  3. So I have a little problem and I am kind of stymied... I bought a bundle of various sized 52100 round stock a few years ago at a blacksmithing event, can't remember the details at the moment. I just recently pulled it out and tested a small piece for a slipjoint knife build. I forged the shape, ground it to near the final thickness, normalized and hardened. Low and behold I barely get 50 HRC... Did it a second time and got virtually the same result---------so I see 3 possibilities: I got sold something that isn't 52100, my heat treat process was totally wrong, or I had massive decarb. I don't think decarb is really the issue because I ground away the surface steel and put a wash of satanite on before the hardening (the second round was done without the satanite just in case that had botched the quench, but results were the same). My heat treatment may have been a bit off, but I still wouldn't expect to get such low hardness. Here is the procedure I used: 2 normalizing cycles at about 1475, held for about 2-3 minutes then air cooled. Bring up to 1500 then hold for 10-15 minutes and quench in 125 degree cooking oil--------as quenched hardness was only 50 HRC. My temperature control should be pretty good, I use a thermocouple in my forge to monitor temp during heat treats. I also used a similar process to harden some W1 (with shorter soaking times) at the same time and I got a hardness of 65 HRC. So, any ideas what might be going wrong???
  4. Hello everyone! I was/am a long time lurker at anvilfire and a newer lurker here but I have a question and decided to join the board. Loads of good stuff here - thanks to everyone who has made this site such an awesome resource! I have all the bare minimum of required tools, including a gas forge, post vice, angle grinder, 100 lb london pattern anvil, even an oxy-acetylene kit but I dont have any hardy tools, fullers, flatters, awesome hand-made rounding hammers, etc. I did get a smithin magician kit to help myself make all the tools I plan to make. I don't plan on buying a full set of top and bottom fullers, a flatter, etc and so I am going to get to work on that. I guess my question is "What order do I start making these tools in?" Right now I have a bar of 3' x 2" round 4140 stock, a bar of 4' x 1" round W-1 and a small round bar of 5" x 2.5" 4140 I am saving for making a rounding hammer. I was thinking of trying to make a hardy fuller or cutoff hardy first, but I'm stuck as far as how to do that with what I have got. I feel like I kinda need a fuller to make progress with this 2" bar stock but I can't make one out of it without serious wasted effort (I dont think). Probably need a striker or a power hammer to make headway (closest I have to a striker is a wife with a bad back). And I guess I would need a hammer eye punch and hammer eye drift first if I want to make top tool/ bottom tool sets. As far as I can figure, my mistake was buying 2" round bar instead of 1.5" or 1.25" to make top/bottom tools. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Matthew Marting
  5. Hello guys, so recently my dad picked up some steel at an old garage sale, and he got a very large coil spring and 2 long heavy drill bits, both of which are marked with the word Thor is fancy cursive. I have heard that both springs and drill bits are quality steel, but i was wondering if i could get help with some exact identification on the steel and info on how to heat treat it. Thanks! ​"for reference the the coil is about a half inch thick
  6. Well I pulled the trigger on making a railroad track anvil the other day. I went to the scrap yard the other day and found a 3' chunk of UNUSED railroad track and made it mine for the low, low price of $21.00. I've been trying to figure out what I'm going to do with it, I know I want to make a small anvil with a 3/4" hardie hole for general forging, but I'm thinking about making a smaller striking anvil, again with a 3/4" hardie hole, as well. Things I know... - The rail has not been used, so it's not work hardened. - I can mar and dent it quite easily with cold iron. - I spark tested it, it appeared to be high manganese. - A magnet is attracted to the steel. - It seems to file and grind easily. Things I don't know... - Will I need to harden the anvil when it's finished? - How hard is it to drill? (for the hardie hole) - Will the manganese steel work harden from forging on it? - I know a torch will cut the rail, but how do I get a good, clean, square cut on the rail head? - Is it weld able? I have little-to-no experience doing anything like this, so any advise would be appreciated! Thanks!
  7. I’m about to start making tooling, for the 100 lb LG hammer, I just rebuilt and put a brake on. Thanks to Sid at LG, Peacock, and McBruce by the way for your help in this endeavor. So my question is this; I’m going to make most of the tooling; swage blocks, fullers, v blocks and the like, either with spring arms or side bars to attach to the bottom die holding fixture I just machined. Most of the tools will be made of 4140 and sent out for professional heat treating, in the mid 40 RC range. I’ll try to harden and temper some of the simple, smaller tools myself, in quenching oil or canola. So, can I weld the mild steel spring arms or attachment bars on after heat treatment or should they be attached first? I’m not so much worried about breaking tools and having to remake or repair them, as having them fail and come shooting out and killing me BTW.
  8. Dear Sirs, I am working in closed-die steel forging company. Nowadays, we have problem about the production of connection rod Details are as follows: Forging Equipment: 6300 mkg Lasco Counterblow hammer Raw Mateial: SAE 4140 Forging Temperature:~ 950-1000 C 1st question: What must be the hardnees value as forged in air cooled condition? For the heat treatment, First, the part was austenized at about ~880 C during 40 minutes and quenched in 90 C oil bath. Then tempering was performed at about ~ 550 C during 1 hour. After heat treatment; Surface Hardness was 34 HRC => This is OK We have cut a tensile test sample from the body of the part as being perpendicular to the forging direction.The section that we have taken test sample was 20 mm and the diameter of the gage length region after turning was 10 mm. When we performed tensile testing; Tensile Strength was 1100 MPa => This is OK( the range of this value must be between 1000 to 1150 MPa) Yield Strength was 513 MPA=> This is not OK. This value must be greater than 650 MPa 2nd question :Can anyone has a suggestion to provide yield strength greater than 650 MPa without causing deviation of tensile strength from the tolerance range 1000 to 1150 MPa ? Attached the picture of finished connecting rod and drawing of tensile test specimen are available. Thanks for your assist in advance. Regards, Schmieden
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