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Showing results for tags 'hardy tool'.
I got an amazing gift recently. I got a Hardy/hardie tool bench. It came with 4 pieces. One is a Blowhorn I know that... there's a spike that im pretty sure has nothing to do with it and 2 items that cannot be used in the bench. One of the two, looks to me, like a removable Anvil horn, the other is a long rectangular object with a step in it. Both are horizontal fits and both have a round, male insert with two flattened or "keyed" sides, unlike other vertical that are tapered square/rectangle. There are no stamps or markings. Can you help me identify the 2 and possibly the spike? I am also interested in finding corresponding pieces for both bench and unidentified tools. I am new to blacksmithing, just getting the final pieces together to really start. I appreciate any help you guys can give. I've tried for days looking up different words to identify the 2 with no luck in the slightest. He'll, I honestly don't know what I'm looking at with these 2 specifically. They could be for something entirely unrelated. Anyways, thanks again guys!
Hello All, I apologize if this is not the correct room to post this question in or if the answer is extremely obvious. I started this craft a few months ago and have searched far and wide for a good tutorial that explains how to forge a bottom fuller hardy tool. I have seen a few videos on youtube, but they all seem to be using power hammers. Like most beginners I do not have a power hammer, but I am in the process of building a striking anvil. With that said, could someone point me in the right direction on this forum to a good tutorial for forging a bottom fuller? Everything I search for seems to be images or descriptions of what people have forged. It really seems strait forward, but I would like to know what people use for stock at the start and the steps or little bits of experience that could be shared to help me do this right the first time. Judging from the massive amount of posts and experience that has congregated here I am sure more than one person will be able to point me in that direction. Thanks in advance and I look forward to some feedback on some of my future projects.
One of the age old methods for making hardie tools is to forge the tool to the basic shape and size of the hardie hole and then heat the tool, place it in the hardy hole and hammer it into the hole so that it fits the shape of the hole and has a flange around it - Noting on my new anvlil that this method tends to draw the heat to the anvil as would be expected but is also affecting the heat treating around the hole - Not wanting to hurt the temper of my anvil face I'm looking at alternate methods of fitting the tools - any other ways folks are doing this? I'd sure like to keep this anvil pristine - not sure it's affecting the face but it on one occasion has actually caused a color change around the edges of the hardy hole. Maybe I'm just being wimpy about my new anvil but it sure is nice having really good tools for a change. Could be that I just left the tool in the hole too long or had the heat too high - dunno.
Have a buddy in the smithy for 2 weeks and he is new to "smithing" so we have been tooling, he has limited stuff so I want to send him, home with 20-30 smithing tools and the ability and knowledge to make tools when he returns home. He wanted a guillotine hardy tool. I did not have one I always made spring fullers for all my needs or top and bottom tools. But we looked at several different ones came up with a simple design. Then we thought hey why not make a half dozen of them to sell cheaply to guys in the club. So off to the scrapyard we went-long trip, its about 200' from the front door of my smithy. $27 later we had what we needed and headed back to the smithy. Here is Dan and I fitting the pieces for welding And here I am welding------just in case you may have missed that. Here is Dan welding in the lower corner of the table you can see the welded piece along with the pieces that make up the entire Guillotine. Here is the finished product It took us about 3.5 hours to cut all the stock, weld them up, clean and paint them. We made sure to use a readily available stock for the dies that we could get in mild steel and tool steel