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Found 5 results

  1. Hey. I'm a new bladesmith (with a couple of years experience of traditional blacksmithing) and I've made a couple of knives out of O2 steel. The first one turned out great, but the second one had cracks all over the edge and spine. I've done a little bit of research and people say: the edge hardens first, so when the thicker spine hardens the edge can't flex => cracks. What I think caused it: I had problems normalizing it before hardening. The oil (canola oil) was probably not hot enough. I used a coke forge and struggled to reach an even temperature. Read a bit online and found out O2 isn't for inexperienced bladesmiths. I didn't know this when I began forging my next knife, a kitchen knife. It's not hardened yet, and I'm terrified of doing it. My question is: how do I make sure I don't get any cracks in my new knife? I've bought some vermiculite to normalize in, but someone said online that you shouldn't normalize O2 in vermiculite. He said you should do a "sandwich" with hot pieces of thick metal under and over the knife. Does vermiculite work or was he right? Is there anything else you recommend me doing to increase my chances of a successful quench with O2? I've ordered 80CrV2 steel (which supposedly is a more beginner-friendly steel) so next time will be easier. Very thankful for all answers! // Gustav
  2. Hi all, Thanks for all the great posts am learning a lot. I have a question if you don't mind. Just went to the local junk yard (am in India) and the guys sold me a what they say to be a JCB axle but it looks a bit different. Definitely hard stuff, but it is rounded on one end (4 inch diameter) and 2 inches on the other end. Diameter is 4 inches if I cut the either end off. It is about just under two feet long with an indentation (section cut out 7inch by4inch) that could be used as an anvil but on edge it really does have an amazing rebound and ring. On flat well it is flat. But my question is should I cut into it. What about the heat treat if any? At what point can it be damaged. Would be great to know. All the best, David.
  3. So I have a little problem and I am kind of stymied... I bought a bundle of various sized 52100 round stock a few years ago at a blacksmithing event, can't remember the details at the moment. I just recently pulled it out and tested a small piece for a slipjoint knife build. I forged the shape, ground it to near the final thickness, normalized and hardened. Low and behold I barely get 50 HRC... Did it a second time and got virtually the same result---------so I see 3 possibilities: I got sold something that isn't 52100, my heat treat process was totally wrong, or I had massive decarb. I don't think decarb is really the issue because I ground away the surface steel and put a wash of satanite on before the hardening (the second round was done without the satanite just in case that had botched the quench, but results were the same). My heat treatment may have been a bit off, but I still wouldn't expect to get such low hardness. Here is the procedure I used: 2 normalizing cycles at about 1475, held for about 2-3 minutes then air cooled. Bring up to 1500 then hold for 10-15 minutes and quench in 125 degree cooking oil--------as quenched hardness was only 50 HRC. My temperature control should be pretty good, I use a thermocouple in my forge to monitor temp during heat treats. I also used a similar process to harden some W1 (with shorter soaking times) at the same time and I got a hardness of 65 HRC. So, any ideas what might be going wrong???
  4. I am looking for a way to measure the temperature of my steel in the forge and wanted to see if anyone in the forums has experience with an IR temperature sensor. In particular, this is the current listing on Amazon.com that I am considering: http://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Targeting/dp/B007EYX0TS/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395934068&sr=1-17&keywords=high+temperature+type+k The temperature measurement range is -58-3002F and also has a thermocouple input channel. If anyone has experience with this unit, please let provide some feedback.
  5. Well the top line about sums it up, I forged out 2 hawks, out of 2 rail road spikes. I quenched both of them, but it seems to me that neither of them got very hard. I read somewhere that spikes where 1095 carbon or along those lines. I used one old spike and a fairly new one. I quenched in water, not oil. I did a fair bit of grinding to knock of the scale to temper it, it didn't get over 175 degrees in grinding. I put an edge on one just to see the hardness, and it wasn't very hard at all. What'd I do wrong?