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Found 3 results

  1. I want to make a nice 3 pound rounding hammer. I can't seem to find any 4150 steel anywhere. Could I use an equal size of mild steel, and weld on an piece of S7 flattened out? I don't know if this will work. I also don't know about forge welding it, as it being a big piece of steel, and having no power hammer/press
  2. Hello all. tried to search for an answer to this, but each search ended up with over 300 pages, and going through 10 or so, thought I'd go this route. Feel free to redirect as necessary. I've got about a half dozen Damascus billets under my belt using various materials, and have just acquired a bunch of saw mill blades to make more (at least 150-200 more billets) and want to speed up the process a bit by minimizing my folds. I'm currently doing everything by hand (hopefully will have a rolling mill and/or press in the next few months) and am wondering if those with more experience have found that there's a limit to the thickness of the initial billet to setting a good initial weld. I'd like to make my initial billet with 22-24 layers of .072" - .080" saw blades (or 15N20 that I also have) and .062 of 1095 . When I stacked the pieces, the billet will be 1.5" wide, 6" long and 2" deep. Should a 2‌‌" thick stack be doable by hand with a 4# hammer? How thick could I go and still set the initial weld by hand. Thanks in advance as always peace and love billyO
  3. . Here's is a small hammer I made during a hammer making class today, taught by Nathan Robertson. This is forged from 1045 and weighs 14.9 oz including the handle. This hammer will be used exclusively for forge welding leaves to branches, the small end is for getting in towards the "V" of the stem and branch better. The large end is 1" in diameter with about a 3/4" radius on the face, the small end is 3/4" diameter tapered out to about a 1/8" radius at the tip of the face. Total length of the head is 5" and the handle is 12" long.
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