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Found 6 results

  1. Hello all, just looking for a little direction/advice. First off, if there's already a thread on any of these questions I have, feel free to let me know. I've got a good idea of what I want my forge to look like, side draft, with a semi circle hearth, and a half hood. I'm also using a bellows and trying to keep things as close to an 1800's period layout as I can. I'm looking for building techniques/design specifically how to prevent the heat from destroying the brick and mortar. How many courses of soft fire brick should surround the fire before it's ok to use hard fire brick? Mortar mix? Should the soft fire brick that contacts the fire be loose, or have mortar too? I've seen the mason work wrapped in plastic to slow curing. How do I build a smoke shelf and still comply with building codes requiring fully lined chimneys? Is there a way to integrate a smelting furnace? What metal should the fire pot be built from? Is plain steel ok? How thick? Bellows blue prints? Materials for bellows construction? This is what I've got for questions so far, and obviously, it's just the beginning. Like I said, just let me know if there's threads that already exist that address these questions. Thanks for your time and input. Happy smithing!
  2. Hello all. Just joined the forum and have lots of questions. The first is about design and layout of my forge, so I guess this is more of a masonry post. I purchased an 1840's farm house, and it came with a blacksmith shop. The only thing left of the forge is the top part of the chimney. I'm trying to stay as close as I can to period design. I know my rough dimensions, but what I need help with is how do I figure out how to lay everything out? For instance, how do I determine the angle of all my bricks that make curves? I'm trying to get a picture/drawing up loaded so people have a better idea of my design. Sorry for the vagueness, but like I said, I'm just starting out.
  3. Greetings, I have been lurking on this site for several months and am hoping for some solid advice. I am considering building a small smithy in my back yard which will be essentially a shed (for tools) and a large extended roof for my smithy. I currently have a propane forge but want to build a coal or coke forge. I am wondering though, will a side-draft chimney that is open on 3 sides, still draw when used in essentially an open environment. Thanks JB
  4. I'm looking at building a forge for a combination of general purpose work and for tempering long items such as swords. I've decided on using an electric blower for the air supply, and already know to use radial/centrifugal type blowers. I've done a bit of searching and have come across information stating to use a blower with a flow rate of about 150-400 cfm, and suitable for anywhere from 1.5 to 6 inches of static pressure. My first question is: Is this information accurate? To design the forge for general purpose work, would it be easiest to design a forge with long firepot with multiple tuyere "branches" going to separate grates in the bottom of the firepot, or perhaps make one long grate with an air gate just underneath that could slide out to adjust the amount and size of the air blast? Perhaps there are better ideas than this that I couldn't find? With the multiple branches, an air gate on each branch could control the size of the blast, but I'm afraid of uneven heating causing problems for hardening. The final problem is how much air flow will all this require. Going from what was stated before, for a typical forge an average of 250 cfm could be a basic reference point. With 4 tuyere "branches" or the equivalent thereof, the needed cfm would be more around 1000. Does this sound correct, and if there is any information I missed or anyone has a better idea please let me know!
  5. I'm building a forge, and since I haven't even seen coal up close yet (or worked a forge) I'm trying to figure how big the opening(s) on the sides of the clinker breaker should be to allow air to pass by. I'm making the triangler cube type that rotates. Is a quarter inch on each side enough when the flat side is up? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  6. Ha so this is a can of worms and I bet you all had some ideas of your own when you saw this topic! So... Here is the question, what is your idea of the perfect gas forge? I want to generate a reference list of characteristics that every forge builder should consider when settling on a design. Sure such a list probably exists someplace on the net, but I am keen to hear your own thoughts on what makes a forge better than just good. I have worked on probably over 50 different forges over the years. Servicing burners, tuning burners, modifying burners or just making other peoples projects work. Working on forges got me into blacksmithing, but there are so many different combinations of burner and chamber design and some of those combinations are clearly not as good as others, in terms of temperature. There is of course more to the perfect forge than just temps though. Clearly the perfect forge depends on the job, so lets narrow it down to the most versatile forge The key things I have been asked to do to forges will give us a start. 1) The ability to reach welding temps and beyond, in a reasonable time. 2) The ability to control primary air and hence minimize oxidization of material 3) must heat up reasonably quickly, say less than 5 minutes 4) provision for a thermocouple or pyrometer to sense temperatures for heat treating. 5) must be reasonably efficient on fuel. 6) Have idle and full flame control, so it can be easily turned down but not off. 7) Must be able to accommodate long materials 8) must have a wide enough door for wide and curved materials. How wide is enough? What would you add to the list? can you quantify any of the above? How fast should a forge heat, how efficient etc. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on what exactly constitutes the perfect gas forge.
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