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Found 5 results

  1. It’s taken a while, but my forge build is finally complete bar the IR reflective coating. Many thanks to all who gave advice. I started by building a naturally Aspirated ribbon burner on a 3/4” Frosty T-burner mixer. I built the frame for the castable from scrap wood and put shipping tape, the type used to tape boxes shut, on what would become the interior of the form before assembling it, punching holes in each crayon socket and coating it with Crisco (butter flavored, for the curious) before inserting the crayons. This combination worked like a dream as a release agent. I highly recommend it. The mix chamber was built from 2X2 square tubing, 1-1/2 inch shorter than the length of the flat portion of the shell. I just used a couple of pieces of hardwood to vibrate the Mizzou I used for the port section, but that rocked quite well. I could only push the reinforcing wire about halfway down into it, but by vibrating (hitting) it with the sticks, it settled in nicely and when the form was removed, no voids. I had greased the crayons, and tried to pull them, but broke all but one or two . So I drilled them out with three progressively larger bits and pushed the last little bit out with the flat end of a bit one size smaller than the holes. The hardest part was getting the crayon residue out of the air mix chamber. next it was time to get the paint off the shell and attach legs. I used some warehouse rack angle iron that had been scrapped off of a rack that lost an argument with a Hilo at work (no casualties other than the one piece of steel), cutting a semicircle the size of the forges O.D. out of one side of angle on each “leg” and welding them to the shell. A similar method was used to attach a work support piece to the front and a straight piece of stainless angle was welded on for a burner mount and it was time to paint!
  2. I am currently working on building a new propane forge. I plan to use two inched of 2600 degree kaolwool, soft firebrick, and coating everything in ITC. The forge will be 12 inches long and use 1 frosty T burner. My plan is to build it an and 8 inch diameter pipe. That would leave me a 4 inch chamber which is plenty big for the knife work that I do, and I have a coal forge for oddly shaped work. My question is, are there any downsides to a small forge other than what you can fit in it? I don't want to use any more gas than I have to so my whole goal is efficiency. In other words, why would you make your forge chamber larger than the your steel? Thank you guys for your time and wisdom
  3. So, just to bring a question to the beginning of a thread that I've had to dig deep into several threads to find any info on (and I'm still not satisfied I've gotten all the info I need for my build), let me ask a question or two. Which castable refractory would our senior members recommend for the ribbon burner, the forge body, and the forge floor, if one decides to cast it rather than brick or kiln shelf it. And why? If a particular brand is not recommended, what properties should one look for in the material one chooses for each of these components? The internet has such a confusing glut of conflicting information (and even here, threads wander), I'd just like to get some opinions from experienced guys. I apologize to those who have addressed these questions before, but I think future questers (Not to mention myself, now) will appreciate having these particular questions addressed early in a thread. Let me also say that the reason I am asking these questions here is that, as my personal curiosity has moved into this area, Iforgeiron forums is where I have found the most down-to-earth, basic "guys who are just interested in this stuff and VERY willing to share with other guys" people. I appreciate that. Your expertise and our locations do not lend themselves to an apprenticeship type learning relationship, so there is nothing we newbies can give back to the "Masters", though we would if we could. If you would all just indulge us, especially after all that flattery, please just let us learn this particular bit of info for our early builds so our learning curves can benefit from the "learn from each other" method rather than the "Do it all yourself" method. If you're not willing to pet puppies, why bother being here? We thank you when you are willing to share your work and knowledge here. It makes you good folk
  4. Hey everyone my name is Dallas. I am from Southeast Texas and no I am not named after the Cowboys. Yesterday I built my first forge out of an old grill a roommate said I could have and some bricks from Home Depot. I have been wanting do do this craft for several years and didn’t know how or where to start. So I thought the best way to learn is to fail so don’t hold back when correcting me. Thank you for your time and I look forward to any input so that I can forge properly and safely. Thanks Dallas
  5. Hi All, Absolutely new to the forum. I've been fooling with metal for years and have many tools for smithing including two anvils, post vise, swage block, and an assortment of tongs and hammers. I also have a pile of high carbon steel and have booked myself into a few classes. I've taken a few lessons too. I'm pretty much set on building my own forge and would like to go with a blown burner. Search hasn't netted me results yet other than this link http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/19623-forced-air-burner-design/#comment-202388 many other links appear to be broken. I'm building a Peot style forge http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/PipeForge/PipeForgeAndPropane.htm Any advise on threads to read or things to avoid would be really welcome. I'm trying to figure out what parts to find for my burner including the parts needed for hook up to a tank. Here's a drawing of the forge design I'm considering: Thanks, John
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