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Found 6 results

  1. I am a beginner blacksmith and I've been making some small projects. I keep running into the same problem which is all my projects are slightly pitted and have a dull red colour. Any ideas or solutions? Much appreciated! Here's a pic
  2. I developed a prototype tumbler in early 2016 and shall attempt to complete the project in early 2017. I intend to produce plans, including a formal video, as a fundraiser for nonprofit smithing associations. The tumbler is simple and low cost to build, fairly quiet, large and effective. The noise level in the video is greater than that in reality. First step is to pickle the forged work in food-grade citric acid for 12 to 24 hours and then to neutralize the acid upon the work in a baking soda solution. The pickling causes the forge scale to become dust like. A rubber mat lines the interior of the 55 gallon drum and its two ends. Media to date has been 'drainage rock' from Lowe's; the rock is deeper than that shown in the photo. Tests have been both dry and wet tumbling. The photo of bent nails show the results after just 20 minutes of tumbling. Fontana_Forge_Tumbler_Video_01-16.m4v
  3. Hi everybody. Just wondering if anyone has ever used the Sumac plant for dying steel? I used to dye my traps in this (Boiling water & Sumac berries)...It will dye rusty steel to a black color. The rustier the steel the better the dye job. (This holds up great one a good deep color is achieved) Thinking of trying this on some forged pieces here in the very near future. Just wondering what you all think or if anyone has tried this? Thanks...Bruce
  4. I guess this is a nice problem to have. It seems that when people are watching at demos they often want to buy the piece you're working on. They like to have something still warm off the forge. I do a lot of bottle openers from rail spikes because they are reasonably quick and visitors like watching the twist and the drifting of the opener end. The one in the photo is pretty much off the forge with a bit of wire brushing. What could I finish this with so that it can be sold straight away? I've tried beeswax and it's gluggy. Spray finishes are fine but they take time to dry. Do you sell stuff straight off the forge and if so, how do you solve the finish problem??
  5. Hi there! Just wondering if anyone has had success tinting or coloring the classic beeswax/linseed/turpentine mixture? I've definitely made it darker by using black shoe polish. I was wondering about using dyes for coloring candles... Or perhaps gilders paste is the answer? - basically I like making my own coatings where possible and I'm cheap. Thanks, Nate
  6. This forum is great, in particular the business threads. I am a public sculptor in Gainesville, FL and I have only been making iron sculptures to sell for a couple years now so I am still a newbee with most things (like pricing!). The issue I am tackling today is finishing techniques. In the past I have been commissioned to make outdoor sculptures and have used a powdercoating finish on them. Today I am placing a bid on an interior bench sculpture and was thinking I'd explore some more natural finishes like oil to bring out the detail work and iron color (my favorite color). I am just not sure how long this finish will last until it need touch up and what I should tell my clients. Anyone who has sold a medium sized piece (8' x 2' x 2') to a client or museum and used an oil finish have any advise?
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