Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'drifting'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop


  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 5 results

  1. Hey Forum, I think I forged about 12-15 hammers from 1045 yet and in the last months I have massive problems with them cracking during the quench. Picture 1-3 is the first hammer that cracked during the quench. I heard 3 times the horrific "ping" sound and here you go with a big crack right through the eye. Picture 4-5 is a rounding hammer that showed the same kind of crack as the first hammer. I heared no sound of cracking. I cracked it completely open to examine the grain and the crack itself. After this hammer cracked I assumed that I forged the steel too cold when drifting the eye. So I forged the next little 0.9 kg hammer a lot hotter. I will heat treat it the next week I think. What really confused me is the piece of steel in the last picture. I finished my guillotine tool today and tested it on this piece. Just a couple of heats and some hard hits with the hammer. After I finished I put the piece aside and shut down the forge. When I came back it wasnt red hot anymore but still hot (black heat). So I threw it in the water bucket to cool it down. After I looked at it I saw this big crack right through the fuller grove. Iam at a point now where I dont know what to do next. Nearly every piece of 1045 cracks (Iam glad the guillotine dies did not). I forge everything by hand so its really frustrating to see the hard work going to pieces in the quench. Any tips/suggestions? Those hammers are the first ones after changing from solid fuel to a gas forge. Can there be any connection to this? Iam thankful for every hint. Thanks Tim
  2. I have been commissioned by a friend to make two twin axes. I have no experience making axes so I figured I would ask the experts. He wanted them to be made completely of high carbon steel and to have a thick handle (as he has large hands). He drew something like this (the image from paint) I have started one of the axes, I am using railroad connectors as my metal. My problem is not knowing the best way to punch through this metal and then drift it. I was thinking about drilling a hole through it but I am not sure if that is the best way to go about it.
  3. I’m making a tomahawk/small axe; I have two questions concerning it. I tried to start it tonight but as I was drifting the eye it developed an unnatural bulge to one side. What is the proper way to slit and drift to avoid that again? I have done it several times on other projects and there always seems to be a slight bulge to one side and always fixable, but tonight it was ridiculous. So what is the proper procedure to make a good clean drift? My second question, is for the cutting edge, I have W1 steel for the bit; however I have heard that it is nigh impossible to forge weld W1 to mild steel. So should I try to weld with W1, if so what is the best procedure to insure that the W1 does not burn away? Or should I just use a different tool steel altogether, perhaps like an old file, I have several of those. Also I don't have a modern welder, so anything but forge welding is out of the question, plus I would rather do it the old fashioned way. Here are the specs: 1018 mild steel 1 inch square bar, about 3 3/4 to 4 inches long. Also W1 tool steel about 1/2 x 3/4, S7 steel, or an old file. My drifting tools are: 1 x 1/8 inch H13 tool steel, then I use a 1/2 inch taper drift, then proceed to use a 1 inch drift. If my drifting tools are all wrong let me know I'm always open to critique, I am fairly proficient with welding with borax and sand on mild steel projects as well. Thanks, any critique or help would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I want to offer a potential client to punch and drift 5/8" round holes in 3/4" square bars (both ends of eight 48" bars, 16 holes) I want to charge what it is worth, not more not less. However, being a beginneer, I cannot expect clients to pay for my "apprenticeship". My question is this : How much time to punch & drift with a hammer, a 5/8" round hole in a 3/4"square bar heated in a coal forge. It took me 40 minutes to do it today. How far off the mark am I? I'm pretty sure I take way too much time and I would like to charge the time it should take. I'll pay for my apprentice status. Thanks, Yves
  5. Hey, sorry about the no pictures. I just started a rr spike hawk... this is when my thread gets filled with people telling that it won't make an effective blade, right? Look I've heard it all and I know that you mean well but please just stick to the topic. To be honest I agree but I wanted to get a feel for tomahawks, so flattened the blade, and drifted the hole and it came out all right but a bunch of metal was rough and sticking out in the middle. since it's in the eye I can't grind it so I was wondering if a file then sanding would do the trick. If so where could I find a good file for the job and what kind of sand paper. Sorry if I'm acting unkind, and please I am open to all critique that doesn't involve the materials used for the hawk. Thank you for all comments and advice. ^_^
  • Create New...