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  1. Does anyone know if copper and soldier are foodgrade safe? I saw a syrup making pan today made from copper and was soldiered very heavely. I just wondered if it is safe.
  2. So, I'm looking to get a relatively small induction furnace to melt and cast copper for making bars and other things from scrap. I'm looking online but all I find are those $300 induction ones and I don't overly trust them. Does anyone know where I can find a decent induction furnace for less than $500 AUD, and yeah I live in Australia so if it ships there, that would be great. I'm not too concerned at the size, 1KG will be enough.
  3. I am building a new 3 torch forge after a year+ of playing around and spending a lot of cash. I ended up with Frosty's T-burner single torch forge using black pipe, floor flange and bell's. It works good but I want better. I have been thinking about the propane delivery system to use and today it entered my decision to use 1/4" or 1/2" copper pipe with copper elbows and needed parts sweated together. I searched to find if copper was a valid material to use and it appears it is a good material and legal in PA to use for a propane delivery run. They use it for the whole house propane tanks mounted outside of home because copper can go around bends very easy and the cost is quite less. The only issue I found was connecting copper to other materials can cause issue with corrosion. This is NOT and issue because copper will only be used for the delivery of the propane. The mig tip is copper that will feed propane into a 1 x 1 1/2 cast iron bell threaded into 1" inch x 6" pipe connected to a 1" x 1/2 bell that will be inserted into forge. I have done quite a bit of home plumbing sweating copper together so I see no issue with BAD sweats. I am posting this concept to get feed back from experienced forgers to see if I am heading down a dark path of a less expensive propane delivery system. Any constructive thoughts would be appreciated.
  4. Hello, I am a bit new to the forum but as much of my searches led me here, I figured I would go ahead and give this a go. I am a metal sculptor who words with mild steel 9 and 6 Gage wire. I've been looking into ways to color my sculptures that are more natural and diverse than just rattlecans, but that are also affordable. As a student I can afford many of the premade solutions and chemical collerants available online. Because of what I make and how I make it a lot of traditional methods don't work for me. I'm looking for advice on best ways to clean, prime and paint my works. I've been researching a lot via the book "Patina" by Matthew Runfola, and was wondering what are going to be the most cost effective ways to prepp and paint my artworks. Since my artworks are welded wire, cleaning is difficult, wire brushing doesn't always cover every nook and cranny while paint primers often are costly and take a large amount to fully coat. My sculptures tend toy be pretty big as well, from 4 to 6 feet so acid baths aren't resonable. I have considered just hand wiping done with acetone. Or possibly investing in a sand blaster, but again, am worried about cost and efficiency. For many coloration options due to the size methods such as eletroplating and chemical baths are again out of the question due to cost. Thus I am mainly looking into suggestions for best cold wipe on or spray on chemical processes. I have access to some heat oxidation options as well, but so far cold brush and spray on application seem the best fit. Does anyone have any formulas for various cold process using things like bismuth, ferric nitrate, copper sulfates, ect? I want to do colors like reds, yellows, greens, browns, etc. Any advice on brands, shopping places, and so on are greatly appreciated. I have included pictures of my work to give idea of size/ problems I'm working around. Thanks so much for any help!!!! Background: I know some basics from other forums of what chemicals do which colors and cheap ways to get some chemicals, like root killer and drain solution for copper sulfate and such. Biggest issue is formulas and amounts/ application advice.
  5. Really enjoy working with a mixture of copper/steel on a project. Offered to forge and donate the awards for the Creede, CO Sculpture Show this weekend (2017/8/18). A little intimidating making awards for a juried sculpture show. A few mistakes here and there, but still pretty happy with the way they came out.
  6. Hello I have made copper braclet and i want to know how to make it stronger so it would not come apart. It has made by copper wier and then cut to small chains but i wanted to get the protective coating off so i had to heat it and now it is softend.
  7. Attached are two pictures of the same small bowl. 5 in diameter, 0.75" deep, 14g mild steel. I have intentionally put a 'crack' in the side of the bowl and would like to fill the opening with copper (or brass). My first attempt at annealing a piece of copper wire and beating it to submission into the crack was unsuccessful. The next steps will be to fire up the ox-ace torch and simply melt/solder the copper wire into the opening. Probably assisted by some flux. Obviously there will be considerable cleanup afterward. (FWIW - I kinda like the way it looks now and I'll likely make a new one to experiment on.) Any suggestions about how to tackle this would be greatly appreciated! Dave Robinson
  8. After a fashion, I squished some hot change together and made this for my wife.. Next up, will start on making actual patterning between metals, but was happy with my initial results.
  9. Have quite a bit of copper sheeting to texture. It's pretty thin around 16ga. Anyone ever textured with a pneumatic needle gun before?? I have heard a lot of guys getting an air chisel or air hammer and putting chisel bits in and putting texture in that way to be quicker than doing it by hand. Any good fast techniques?? Or experience with the needle gun?? the picture is the look I am trying to achieve.
  10. RogueRugger

    Her and i

    Mixed copper and steel statuette. Birthday present for my wife.
  11. Hello all, I am a new member and this is my first post. I just wanted to share my first few backyard metal casting projects, all of the pics posted are with rough sanding/grinding only, I hope to take some new pictures of the finished products soon. I have found a lot of very helpful information on this site and would like to pass on my thanks to all the experienced members who have taken time to post tutorials for us newbies. So far I have learned that I can do this and that I am more handy than I thought, but that each project comes out a bit different than what is in my head, and that each one has it's own lessons to learn from and take to the next project. 1. very first project, learned to make sure the casting molds are the right size for the amount of metal your crucible can fit, both were intended to have integrated stands but did I not have enough aluminum to cast the stand. 2. couple of ingots, made an aluminum bronze by melting copper into the crucible that still had some aluminum left over from a previous pour (unintentional but I like the result and may make a small bronze decorative knife blade from this ingot) 3. A present for my wife (the heart with our anniversary date) and a mother's day gift for my mom (who is a Disney Fanatic). 4. Rough sand on my F-22 profile desk sculpture (since sanded to a nice smooth finish) 5. Bathroom towel rack (this is a finished product, both my wife and I like an industrial unfinished look for our house's style) 6. towel rack in use 7. first attempt at a copper axed head, rough finish for now. I plan on mounting on a dark stained custom wood handle.
  12. This is my latest sculpture, it is called The Roses and was inspired by the White Rose movement of Munich. The panels are made up of copper plate and mild steel and they are 1m or 40" tall, all completely riveted together.
  13. I have a long term bronze project I am working on and want to pick everyone's brains about something that occurred to me about the etching I will be doing at some point. I am planning on etching flowers into the surface of my bronze and I thought it would be possible to create a gradient on the petals with my etchant. Essentially, I would apply my resist everywhere but the outline of the flower area; after a short dip in some ferric chloride I would take it out, clean it off, and apply resist to the areas inside the flower design that I want to be the most raised. Then another quick dip, cleaning, and widening of the resist area; I would repeat this until I etch all the way to where I want the deepest etching. In other words, I would create consecutive, concentric etches that I can smooth out post-etching to give a 3-D texture to the design. Does this sound reasonable, or is it wildly impractical? Somewhere inbetween? Would it be better to try to carve out the design with a Dremel?
  14. welcome sign i just finished If you want more info on how the build came together
  15. This is my second rose. I wanted to try something a little different than cutting the petals out of sheet copper and wondered how small I could go and still get a decent result. I started out with four pennies, flattened, traced a scaled down pattern and went to work. I think there are things I could have done a little better, but overall am pleased with the results. You can't much cheaper than four cents and a piece of ground wire. Hope you enjoy.
  16. Another couple of christmas gifts. This was my first attempt at making these and im pretty happy with how they came out. My only issue is that when i took the pieces from the forge and quenched them into the water the copper turned black. It was a tough black that took alot of hand sanding to remove and even so there is still some there. Anyone have any tips for me on how to either avoid this happening or how to more easily remove this stuff.
  17. Just finished these copper sea turtles from copper. The first one is kind of a prototype and did a little patina on it. Both of these are made from some 3" Type "L" scrap copper I had laying around. The coral in the sculpture is made from sheet copper. The turtles were annealed and then hammered back to get the metal hard again. The granite river block weighs about 75LBS. Even though the patina on the sea turtle is more realistic of how this creature looks, I like the solid copper look better. Both turtles are just over 11" in length and 7" across.
  18. Anyone out there making Shibuishi? I have made my first round of cast ingots and am trying to form this stuff. It's very difficult to move under the hammer or rolling mill.
  19. Wind chime I made and already sold at a art exhibit. Very fun little project. Copper links some what hinder the sound, but I gave up audio effects for some visual ones....
  20. I have a copper shingle wall that is starting to show fingerprints. It has a brown to black patina on it. I did not do the original work so I do not know what was used for the patina. I am guessing the answer is no but does any one know of a way to clean the oil/finger prints off without striping the patina? And what one could use to get a similar finish in case I do have to strip and re-patina?
  21. Good Afternoon, I joined this forum and promtly found myself browsing briefly through each forum section, and was inspired by the first sticky on the copper page. I realised that I should get stuck in with what I have and to stop waiting when I can afford the right tools and have 'this' or 'that'. So I started pulling out things which I have been lugging around with me for years, looked for some scrap copper pipe from the geyser we put in and just got stuck in, and here is the result.
  22. Hey guys howsit going, well ive got a few old welding bits in the shed that are beyond reusing and at the same time I need some pommel, guard and bolster material but don't really wanna use straight brass or copper so I thought of smelting the two together and giving it a few stirs to see if ill get a new color or not. Does anyone know what color ill get by mixing the two?
  23. I have a project idea. I want to make my daughter an earring tree, but make it a tulip instead. The idea is the have little holes punched/drilled thru the edges of the leaves for her earings to attach thru and the tulip flower to be a small bowl for loose items. The base would be a shallow bowl shape also, with three tabs scrolled under for feet. My question is this... Should I make the flower out of copper sheet or steel? I figure if I use steel I'll brush the hot flower piece with a brass brush before forming it into shape. Any suggestions, comments or opinions will be read and taken into consideration.
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