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Found 8 results

  1. Hello everyone! I'm new to the site, and have really enjoyed learning from the information and knowledge here. I live in southwestern Ontario, Canada. I have access to most fabrication equipment. I am a farrier, and am hoping to build some farrier forges. We come to the burners: I could buy em', but would love to build 'em. Here are my considerations: 1. Most farrier forges have a 90 degree bend in the tube, to save on height. If at all possible, I would like to include this as well, as the straight pipe designs would make the forge too tall for many portable applications. What are the implications of having a 90 degree bend? 2. It is not imperative to have the most efficient burner. It must be a. Relatively efficient, b. Very reliable c. Low cost and relatively easy to manufacture/produce. d. must be able to get up to forge weld temp, but also be able to run fairly low. Most farrier forges only run well from 6-15 psi. If one could run from 2-3 psi, but sometimes get turned up to 15-20, that would be great (yes, I know psi does not = temp, the idea is to have a decent operating range in terms of temps...especially to be able to turn it down low for very light work). I have looked at other burners from other farrier forges. I would love to get your thoughts on them. Most, to be frank, don't seem to be the 8th wonder of the world, but maybe there is more going on. Here are some links to popular models: [commercial links removed] I have attached a copy of what I have been messing around with. It's sort of a modified reil burner with a mig tip. It looks ugly, and it is, but alignment is very good, it seems to burn great, a good neutral flame. One other question: none of the farrier forges have a burner flare. Any thoughts on this when going into a fairly enclosed forge box? OK, lots there Thanks guys!
  2. I need some opinions. I have finished the shell of my new forge and will soon be starting to fill it with the insulation. I know its over kill but I'm using 2''Kao Wool with hardener to help support the 2'' ITC 100 HT. The outside dimensions are 14L x 13W x 13H. The final inside dimensions will be 14x5x5 350ci total for a 3/4'' single burner Ron Reil design (might change to a ''Mikey burner'' if I can get the time to go ta a buddy's machine shop to build it). I have been thinking of casting the flare cone into the refractory instead of a standard hole for it to fit down in. I'm thinking the mixing tube will be inserted through the top and 2'' of hardened Kao Wool then the end of the tube would come in contact with the start of the refractory and sit flush against it. The first 1/2'' - 1'' of the refractory would be cast at the 3/4 diameter of the tube then the last 1'' -1.5'' of refractory would be flared as the cone shape ( I thought I would just use a piece of plastic from a milk jug glued or tapped together as the mold to form the refractory around) . I'm thinking doing it this way would allow for me not to have to change flare cone periodically due to heat exposure and cycling. I've included a picture of the shell, material thickness is 1/8''. For those of Y'all that have more experience than me (probably everyone on here) would this work? Would you change anything? What length would you cast the flare cone 1'' or 1.5'' or would it matter? I would just like to have some other people opinions / expert advice before I proceed any further. I can change the interior design if needed or something would work better. I also wondered if maybe an oval shaped interior would work better than rectangular? Or maybe even Bowl shaped? The base is separate from the top so I can shape it any way that I want and for ease of maintenance. Thanks in advance!!
  3. Hey. im trying to set up a gas forge and have begun making burners. The burner's main pipe has an inner diameter of 1" the gas tank has an outer diameter of 102 cm while ive measured the inside room to be 14 cm square in the opening on each end with a depth of 54 cm i think this translate to the inside being 645.15 cubic inches. will 2 burners be overkill or sufficient for this size of forge ? also how much will the length of the main pipe affect the burn? and how necessary is the nozzle at the end ? im completely new at this so all feedback is appriciated :) thanks in advance
  4. Hello all, This is both my first attempt at posting as well as forging. Please let me know if this is not the appropriate place to post this! My problem is heating the steel I have. My set up is a propane tank forge with the front cut off and a back vent. The open space inside may have a diameter of 6". The single burner is simply propane running to a perpendicular pipe with a small hole drilled. The flame I am getting may be 85-90% blue with the rest being yellow. I blocked off both the front and back entrances as best I could and was running it at about 15-20psi. The steel never received enough heat to even get to the dimmest glow after about 30 minutes of trying. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance! Cheers
  5. Forgehermet


    In my previous post I learned that my oddball burners probably would not get hot enough for a forge so now I am wondering what the cheapest burner design that runs on propane is. My forge is 28"x8"x8", and I would also like to know how many burners I should have in my new forges construction.
  6. I couldn't find this posted here before, so I thought I'd post it up. From Lewis Razors: He has a build video too, the most interesting step of which is hammering the brass (copper?) tube to narrow the ID sufficiently to hold the mig tip. Cheers.
  7. I have been reading Michael Porter's great book on burner and forge design. I am going to build his basic 25-gal propane cylinder forge. His basic design calls for a 1/2" burners for forge diameters up to 6", 3/4" burners up to 9" dia, and 1" up to 12" dia. For evenness of heat, would it better to use, for example, two 1/2" burners instead of one 3/4" burner?
  8. Hello folks, this is my first post on here. To give you a quick background: I don't have much internet access (phone only for now) so excuse me if I've missed other threads with similar specifications. Up to now I've only worked with coal forges, but due to my recent move, it won't be possible to run coal SO I've decided to build a gas forge. I've seen tons of options on here concerning size, shape, and number of burners. Now I don't know exactly what info you need to answer my questions, but I work with mostly round and square stock from 1/2" to 1", and do lots of scroll bending and twisting. With my current forge I am working with up to 12" of material at a time with multiple pieces in the fire because sometimes I have more than one person working in the shop. Here is my plan so far: I have a surplus of 8"x8"x10" refractory blocks. I will be cutting them in half to use as my lining. I also plan to build frosty's T burner plan as the burner(s). My questions are A) how many burners should I run and B ) how big should I build the forge? Thanks in in advance for any input.
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