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Found 65 results

  1. Thinking about picking this guy up. The fella selling wants $300 OBO. He days the blower works like a dream. How's this all sound to you guys?
  2. Howdy smiths, I saw this posted locally for $65. I know very little about bellows except that they are big collectors items and usually sell for alot. Some nut job made this one into a table, and even though I wouldn't use it if I bought it I'd probably try to resell it. Does this look like something that I could make money on in its current state? Should I buy? Thanks
  3. A buddy of mine is giving me a champ no 40. I have two champ 400s. One I am trying to rebuild as a back up. I am trying to research if the the 40 is older or newer than the 400. I suspect older. But can anyone tell me the difference? potential age?, parts interchangeable?, flow capacity? Here is a pic. I have done several searches but have not founf anything on when things were built and how the two compare. He said it blew well and was pretty quiet. mostly a whoosh/purr of air and not gravely sounding.
  4. I would like more information if anyone has it on this blower I purchased for $100 bucks today. Can’t seem to find a date on it or model number.
  5. I'm in the processing of creating a new forge and I want to know what YOURS is made of. Any recommendations on where to buy fire pots, blowers, sheet metal, etc.? How's it working for ya? Also, for those with a forge but WITHOUT a welder, did you have your forge pieces welder for you? Thanks! (below is the kind of forge I'm going for)
  6. Howdy! I was at the scrap yard today and found myself a Holset HX35 Turbocharger. It looked a whole lot like a squirrel blower, so I bought it! Only after researching it did i realize that it was primarily used for cars. HOWEVER, before I toss/sell it I wanted to be sure: CAN I USE THIS AS A SQUIRREL BLOWER FOR MY FORGE? Thanks!
  7. So, I recently got an old buffalo forge as a gift, all still in working condition, well the blower lasted maybe a week before it started to get harder to crank, I let it sit for a little while and now it will not crank at all, I don't know how to disassemble it, but I feel like that's the best place to start, it's a buffalo 200 silent blower, I'm not sure if it's rust or some bolts I'm not seeing, but I can't even get the gear case off Any and all help is appreciated, and I'm sorry if there is a more relevant thread for this question, I looked but couldn't find one
  8. My girlfriend and I bought this blower at an antique shop with the intent of restoring it to use. In trying to look up the manufacturer so I could watch some youtubes, I noticed we had stumbled on an oddity or rarity of some sort. Note how it looks almost exactly like a Champion No. 40, but lacks a couple characteristic curvy bits and the obvious complete lack of "Lancaster" anywhere on it. Nowhere I've looked (mostly google), and no one I've asked (a couple of librarians, a historian, and a couple facebook groups) seems to have any information on it. The Athens Hardware Company absolutely had the manufacturing capability to make their own case and probably even to make a Champion knockoff. I'm pretty convinced it's a Champion #40 rebranded other at Champion or at Athens Steam Company for Athens Hardware Company. I took these 6 pictures of different parts. Can anyone look at their Champion No. 40 and confirm for me that it is the same? Thanks, Keith
  9. Just got this 45 kg anvil for 100 dollars and a blower would be helpful if some one could tell me if the blower is any good
  10. So I recently picked up a 'new' 2nd hand forge. From what I could see on first hand is that is is quite a good shape, the last owner said that his dad gave it to him brand new a couple of years ago and that he'd wanted to get in to blacksmithing, tried it out and found out it wasn't for him, and he had it sitting in his workshop for a few years and decided to sell it. I paid 165 euros for it and it works like a dream. I am extremely happy with my purchase, I practically stole it from him
  11. Hello there. I just started becoming interested in blacksmithing and was about to try my luck on making my own coal forge, but then I remembered this thing just sitting there. As you can see the whole forge needs many hours of work, but I was thinking about starting with the blower. The problem is I have no clue what brand it is or what's missing, so would really appreciate someone guiding me in the right direction. Thanks!
  12. Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build Here are the pictures of my Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build, made using a Mole Hand Grinder found on the internet (which has a 1 to 10 gear ratio), some old side pannels off a PC, a few small rivets, some protective steel corners that came with a kitchen worktop and some 12mm Aluminium angle iron. Here are the picture's of the grinder on its own. The back piece with the right angled brackets. Starting to rivet together the fan blade using 12mm aluminium angle iron. Cutting the brackets to size and drilling the holes for the rivets. After riveting the first part of the fan case together. I then ran out of rivets but decided to continue using cardboard to check everything would work alright. The rivets I needed arrived and so the rest of the fan surround went on as well as the bolts to hold the front panel on. Here is the fan blades and mounting disk, its not perfectly balanced so does 'wobble' abit but it should be fine for the amount I will be using it. And here is the 'almost' finished blower. I ran a line of bathroom chalk around the joins on the inside of the case to cover any small gaps and the bolts hold the front on tight. I don't own a hole saw large enough to make the 80cm dia hole in the front so lots of small holes with have to do for now. All that remains is to find a piece of tubing to connect the blower to the forge and then try it out. The blower seems to be providing a reasonable amount of airflow although I think it isn't recieving enough airflow from the holes in the front. Ill try to take a video when its working and post a link to this thread. This blower has probably cost me between £40-£50 and around 30-40 hours of time, I'm a pretty slower worker but when your doing something you enjoy the time really doesn't matter. Buying a hand cranked blower in okay condition would have most likely cost £60+ but I wouldn't have learned anywhere near as much as I did by doing it myself. My original inspiration came from this thread here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/22816-home-built-hand-blower/ If anyone has any suggestions or advice, or wants to ask any questions then by all means feel free. Thanks for reading and hopefully there isn't too many pictures, I know how much you guys enjoy them. Tom
  13. I'm new to the forum, and new to forging. I've been collecting pieces of equipment here and there, and am about ready to start my first project. The last thing I need to do is get my blower set up. The wife purchased one for me as a Christmas present, but as I've never done any wiring, I have some concerns I'd like to pick someone's brain about. The biggest thing being this: The blower doesn't have much in the way of instructions, but it does say that I need to ground the thing by running a new wire to the bare metal of the blower. I picked up a 3-pronged plug with a pigtailed end (has a ground wire of course) and some wire nuts and electrical tape. Do I need to run a wire from that ground to somewhere on the blower? Or do I just need to connect the white and black and tape down the ground? I didn't have the info for it at first, but my wife still had the link, so I had her send it to me. It's a Dayton 1TDN1 shaded pole blower, 115V. (Amazon link here here some more specs: https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-1TDN1-Shaded-Pole-Blower/dp/B001OM1L92/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi#feature-bullets-btf) Let me know what you folks think. Thanks!
  14. A friend recently gave me two centrifugal fans and I want to make an electric blowers with them but I don't know where to start. I've looked around here but I can't find anything on the topic. All I have are the motors with the two wires (pos. & neg.) sticking out. I was thinking about maybe using a variable light switch to increase/decrease the speech at which the fan rotates but I don't know how to do that nor do I know how to actually power it: what to connect how to connect, etc. I'm trying to melt some copper and silver to cast a couple of rings but with the old "blower" I had, it didn't work (it was a hair dryer duct taped to the end of a pipe that was stuck into the ground into the forge). Can anyone give me any advice? I would also like to have a pipe attached to the blower with a container or something on top of the end of the pipe to hold the coals and the metals.
  15. Hey, folks. As a newbie who has only built a charcoal forge and box bellows from scrap so far, I've never done much research or looking into values of coal forges and blowers. So, I'm hoping y'all can give me some input on a fair general value of this forge and blower. Heck, or a "I wouldn't buy it because of..." even works. A family member is wanting to buy this set for me, and I want to make sure they aren't getting a bad deal (they won't tell me a price yet, so I was trying to get an idea of general fair-market value to tell them). If I were hunting for tools, I'd always go for as cheap as possible (and I know it depends on location and other variables), but any input just based on these photos on what you consider would be a fair price is appreciated. According to my family member, the blower (Champion No. 40) runs fairly smoothly & the forge table is approximately 24x40 inches. Looks like the counterweight is missing on the blower, and I can't quite tell if the clinker breaker is attached to the rod or not, but otherwise I'll have to wait to see it all in person. Honestly, I'm mainly interested in the blower since I wasn't planning on switching to coal/coke soon, but they're saying it's a package deal only. Thanks for any input.
  16. Howdy, I recently picked up a champion blower and was wondering if anyone had some information on the model and how to tear it down. I took it apart today to do a little cleaning but I couldn't get the fan off and the slotted screws inside the cover were frozen solid (letting some penetrating oil work on them tonight). Please correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like someone peened the shaft over the fan (won't move with set screw taken out). Any info would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
  17. anyone here made one? did it work well? was it easy to make? I can see 2 areas of concern 1) gearing to get required speed 2) making an impeller that is suitable I am looking into both of these at the moment and I have some ideas to play with, for gearing I know of a source of geared motors that may have a suitable ratio, will be checking that out when I can and will also have to check the gearbox is removable and can be turned by the output shaft, if it is worm and wheel it cant. for the impeller I was thinking of laser cutting it and making it self jigging
  18. fround a few old forges rusting away, blower ( hand crank and electric ) all seems beyond hope but the tues may be salvagable. on the blowers is the name Beaumont & Wood who are in sheffield UK, anyone know of them. think these are from the time of WW2
  19. I recently picked up an old rivet forge made by Canedy - Otto Mfg Co, usually known for their drill presses and larger blowers. I don't have a lot of info so I hope some of y'all might be able to help. Well I went to work restoring/refurbishing it as well as making upgrade like repairs in the prossess. Here are some pictures of the forge as I got it. The blower does turn but its not smooth and I worry that with every turn it could break a tooth. It's definitely not clean or lubed. Inside the forge is a brake rotor and tongs. The rotor will come into play later. As you can see, its been neglected for quite a while. We'll start with disassembly and wire brushing. It all started off easy, but then there was one stubborn bolt. I cleaned out and cut the slotted head, but it broke one of my flat head bits. So I cut into the back of the bolt, still to no avail. So finally I cut it off with the angle grinder. With a bit of gentle persuasion I got the extension off. As you can see its in pretty bad shape. I continue disassembly with the legs. The hardware was dirty and rusted. A little brush down with a wire brush and some WD-40 got the bolts out. The blower was attached with two bolts. Those came out without incident. Now I get to really clean it. I started brushing it down and found the gearbox had a separation where the lid goes on, so I opened or up. Here is a before and after showing how it is now compared to how gunked up it was. I cut a layer off the rotor so it'd sit more flush to the bottom if the pot. I also cut the pot to fit the rotor. It is so cracked and decayed that I don't feel bad about cutting it to make room. I prepared the metal for welding. As I welded in sections to stress the metal less I disassembled the legs further, wire brushed them, and painted them with rust converter. Put it all back together (plus some spacers under the pot and some new hardware where needed), grease the gears, and you're done! I'll make another post just for all the finished photos.
  20. A while back I bought for $65 a forge blower; and have been restoring it ever since. I've been attempting to remove both the grease and rust without power tools (since I'm a broke teenager), with electrolysis and simple green and a wire brush for months now. Here are some of the parts after I've cleaned them up a bit: Funny thing is that I can hardly find any information about the forge blower anywhere on the internet. Perhaps a couple listings on ebay, but that's about it. Gear casing that I just separated today. Any ideas of how I can weld the broken piece back on? Recently removed stand Not sure if I can do electrolysis on this fan. The gear is stuck. By that I mean that I can't get it out, but with the handle attached and the other gear installed, it spins rather well. I just want to get it out along with the worm gear so I can actually remove the grease and rust. This and going to the hardware store (at the start of the school year) are my only two obstacles currently. Also acquiring/building a forge without welding equipment. The stand has a rusty bolt that I was able to loosen a tad bit after doing likely the sketchiest electrolysis cleaning ever with the entire stand in a garbage can with holes in the bottom and double lined with garbage bags. Any suggestions on how I can push out the axle pin on the inner gear or the brass bushings would be wonderful. Rust/Grease removal as well, including information about this particular blower.
  21. Hey guys, I searched all over and couldn't find anything. I have a little centaur forge rivet forge with the 4" blower opening. My blower is the cheap 2" chinese one you get on amazon. Any ideas how to attach this securely? Right now i'm just using some dryer vent but it does NOT work. Direction to an existing thread or ideas would really be appreciated.
  22. Hi All, Absolutely new to the forum. I've been fooling with metal for years and have many tools for smithing including two anvils, post vise, swage block, and an assortment of tongs and hammers. I also have a pile of high carbon steel and have booked myself into a few classes. I've taken a few lessons too. I'm pretty much set on building my own forge and would like to go with a blown burner. Search hasn't netted me results yet other than this link http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/19623-forced-air-burner-design/#comment-202388 many other links appear to be broken. I'm building a Peot style forge http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/PipeForge/PipeForgeAndPropane.htm Any advise on threads to read or things to avoid would be really welcome. I'm trying to figure out what parts to find for my burner including the parts needed for hook up to a tank. Here's a drawing of the forge design I'm considering: Thanks, John
  23. Finished (mostly) the rebuild of my Champion 400. Still have to put together a new handle and paint the legs, but the rest is complete. The additional painting and touchup will have to wait until I finally get moved. Thanks to the info on various threads here, the rebuild was pretty straightforward. Pretty happy with how it runs and anxious for enough snow to melt so I can get to my coal forge. Not to be a milksop, but a temperature above 5F would also be a bit more comfortable.
  24. I'm stuck on a particular part on the disassembly of a Champion 400. Degreasing has been done. [The paint is the byproduct of the foolish assumption that this particular part of the process was going to be easy.] I'm having a crazy time getting the bushing out. Not sure how else to describe them except via the attached picture. Others have suggested making special tooling or a combination of needle nose pliers and a wrench. My next step is a bit of heat, but before I go there, I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything unusual or weren't any 'tricks' to getting these out. Thanks, Dave
  25. Hi guys, First post here but I've been getting lots of inspiration from you all recently! I'm currently in the process of building my coal forge and hope to have it completed tonight. I'll post a build report later, I think you'll like it... Anyway, I have a quick question for you - I am looking to attach my blower to the inlet pipe on my tuyere. It has a square outlet around 3 1/2 ". My fabricated inlet pipe is 3" square. I have also fabricated an air gate with a 3" square opening which will be operated from the side, forming a more or less rectangular opening depending on the position. My question is - should I mount the blower directly to the air gate, which will then be welded onto the tuyere inlet pipe or should I fab up a reducing cone with the air gate further down in line from the blower? Although it would be easier to mount the blower directly, my concern is that the air gate positioned directly at the blower outlet would interfere with the air flow and lead to inefficiency in the air flow. I'm probably over thinking it I know, but I have a choice to make and plenty of 3mm sheet for fabrication, so I'd rather get it right now than have to correct later... Any advice would be greatly appreciated Vince P.S. apologies for the craps pictures, the camera on my phone make whacky colours...