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Found 2 results

  1. I need some help answering a question. I have an anvil that I would like to begin working on in order to restore it for functionality. So there is no confusion, let's start with the basics. The anvil is a 300 lb Hay Budden. The extent of the damage is on the face. Yes, I can work around it only with smaller stock. It will be repaired and the edges beveled to my preference. For this task, I will be using a MIllermatic 200. I know that it is small, but it is all that I have. I have access to larger welders if need be. I have not completely made up my mind on filler material. Between MG710 and Stoody, however I am leaning more towards the 710 filler. I have researched all methods and I am familiar with Gunter's. If I use the MG 710, I will follow vendor (Messer) specifications for welding which basically is the same concept as Gunter's. Clean/grind, preheat, weld, and finish. Alright, I understand that I am building up a surface but typically what would the amps be say if you were welding? Stick vs TIG? I would like to TIG it, a lot cleaner, but the preheat is 750F compared to 390F stick. It does give the amps for stick, 45 to 90F (3/32" rod) and 80 to 210F (1/8"). I was looking for someone that had some experience with this filler and how it reacts. Also anyone that has TIG to anvil experience, speak up. I would like to know your process, heat control, amps, and electrode dia. Thanks
  2. I'm doing some upgrading on my anvil, its a piece of 4 inch square 4140 kelly bar from a rathole rig, weight is about 80 pounds. Currently the waist is square tubing and the foot is a round plate. I'm going to be adding a solid waist, a heavier base (inch or inch and a half thick) and an upsetting block. I've also been building a round horn, but i dont know if i want to add another 8 or 10 inches to the length without a much heavier waist than i currently have planned. Im looking for opinions on what features are worth adding, and if adding the horn as a side horn would be useful.
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