Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'anvil restoration'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 2 results

  1. I need some help answering a question. I have an anvil that I would like to begin working on in order to restore it for functionality. So there is no confusion, let's start with the basics. The anvil is a 300 lb Hay Budden. The extent of the damage is on the face. Yes, I can work around it only with smaller stock. It will be repaired and the edges beveled to my preference. For this task, I will be using a MIllermatic 200. I know that it is small, but it is all that I have. I have access to larger welders if need be. I have not completely made up my mind on filler material. Between MG710 and Stoody, however I am leaning more towards the 710 filler. I have researched all methods and I am familiar with Gunter's. If I use the MG 710, I will follow vendor (Messer) specifications for welding which basically is the same concept as Gunter's. Clean/grind, preheat, weld, and finish. Alright, I understand that I am building up a surface but typically what would the amps be say if you were welding? Stick vs TIG? I would like to TIG it, a lot cleaner, but the preheat is 750F compared to 390F stick. It does give the amps for stick, 45 to 90F (3/32" rod) and 80 to 210F (1/8"). I was looking for someone that had some experience with this filler and how it reacts. Also anyone that has TIG to anvil experience, speak up. I would like to know your process, heat control, amps, and electrode dia. Thanks
  2. So awhile back, I acquired a peter wright anvil from my grandfather's tourist camp which I got for free. The anvil is old I know that and is weathered. Unfortunately my grandfather passed away and I had no chance to ask him about it. The anvil's stone weight numbers read: 0 2 16 so it weighs around 70 pounds. The face of the anvil was heavily pitted when I acquire it either from misuse or improper storage and the edges are chipped. I was concerned with the pits and the fact that the face wasn't perfectly flat, so I sent it to my father's friend who milled the face to make it flat and remove the pits. The deepest the pits ran were probably 1/16"-1/8". I did a hammer drop after I got it back from the milling process with a 16 oz. ballpeen (using the flat side not the ball) and the hammer face actually let little crescent dents in the face. Should I try to get the face of this anvil resurfaced? Is it still good to go? I was planning on using this thing for bladesmithing particularly, making swords. I realize that you are never suppose to strike the face of an anvil directly since you can damage it. So I'm hoping that the milling process didn't totally grind away the steel face. What do you guys think?
  • Create New...