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  1. Let me know if I'm in wrong section I'm trying to figure out if these old railroad wrenches or pic heads are worth the trouble and if so what treasures could I make?
  2. I was recently asked to forge some chain, and I posted a pic of my progress... to which my sister, who lives in Rugby England, responded with some pictures of the Black Country Museum and one of the blacksmith shops there. In the photo there is a double handled sledge. I have heard of these... but I have never seen one in use... does anyone have a video or know more about them? I suspect that it is mostly lifted and dropped....or was it used with a master and apprentice one providing power and the other aiming... I don't know anything about it... figure someone here might... care to shed some light on the subject? Thanks Matt
  3. Hi, I am trying to get a hold of some good steel for making top/bottom tools and possibly axes, and have come across 27 mm 42CrMo (4140 in USA) hex bars. Would you recommend forging from hex bar as a novice smith (been at it for about half a year now), or should I wait and try to get square or round stock. I can get the Hex bar stock in question for considerably less money than online retailers (no local supplier). Also, would 27mm hex be thick enough to create top tools and/or axes? Thanks in advance for your reactions and time.
  4. I am curious what I can make from my D2. I do need punches, chisel's, fullers, ect. Would the D2 be ok for them?
  5. I recently found this old belt grinder at an electrical surplus shop just sitting on the ground. I bought the thing and brought it home but cannot find any information on this thing. The guy told me at the store he thought it was a 2"x72" belt grinder but I measured the loop around all the wheels and only measured 60"-63" after you let out all the adjustment. Also the two wheels towards the back are both 1-3/4" wide wheels however the bottom wheel in the front where the platten connects is only 1-1/2" is that normal?? The only information on the cast aluminum frame states, "Sandmaster Products Los Angeles California." If anyone has any information on this thing or can answer my questions about the wheel sizes I'd really appreciate it.
  6. Hello hello everyone. I want to make a farrier´s brush, and I'm thinking of making it out of used hacksaw blades, annealing, removing the teeth and cutting them in half to make the wires. ¿what type heat treatment should I give to the wires once they are formed into shape, so they don't bend too easily? thanks
  7. Are “slot jaw” tongs available commercially or must they be custom made? I saw a pair being used on one of Black Bear Forge’s demos and they looked to be handy for various shapes.
  8. Hello there! New member here, me and my dad are in the middle of building a propane tank forge. So far it is all put together, cut open and ready for refractories. Here's our issue: He have some ceramic wool to line the inside, 1" thick. We know that it is better to do 2", and I think we have enough for 2". We Also have 2 5-gallon buckets of unknown refractory cement (We don't know what kind/brand it is, we just know that it is refractory cement). Our original plan was to line the forge with the wool, and then coat it with the refractory. But as I've been reading and looking around, I've heard about rigidizer and that wool insulates better, etc. So we are wondering what we should do. I think we are going to line it and try a thin layer of the cement on the bottom to test the cement and to see how well it adheres and such to the wool. We just need advice and tips, what we should do, etc... We haven't built one of theses before (Obviously) but we have built a brake drum open forge. The other thing we want to do is to use a blower and coal rather then propane because we have a TON of coal. We are making it so we can use coal or we will be able to switch out the fan for a propane burner. We are going to have a rounded bottom in the forge, rather then flat so that when we put coal in it the coal will make a flat bed to put the steel/knives/etc. on top of it. We have put the face of the forge on a hinge so we can open it and clean it out, shovel the coal out, etc. Thoughts on this? The last thing for right now is that we have seen people put a hole in the back of the forge, and we aren't sure if it is for anything other then just long pieces of bar stock, so insight on this would be great. And, literally anything you could tell me about blacksmithing! Any tips, tricks, advice, literally anything would be helpful. We have a shop with lots of tools and machines, and we have both done a bit of blacksmithing, but I want to really expand my blacksmithing knowledge and skill this year, Thanks!
  9. Hey it’s been 3 days since I turned on my first forge, read several books but have no practice, made 3 sets of tongs horrible but they work... will read more and try to forge something better cheers
  10. Many people come on this site, whether in the forums or the chat room, and ask where can they find tools, equipment, stuff, etc cheap and fast. It should be public knowledge that it takes money to get into blacksmithing, it is an expensive hobby and even more expensive to set up as a profession to earn a living. A 100 lb anvil will cost more than $200, tongs are better than $20 a pair, hammers are $20 and up, chisels and punches and flatters and swages and tools too numerous to mention all cost money...whether bought outright or made. Unless you want to emulate the poorest of the third world country smiths.......don't ask for cheap, it ain't happening any time soon in this country.
  11. I am looking to cut my teeth on making some household tools, starting with a simple flathead screwdriver. I was considering getting some tool steel rods as the material (O1 or S7), but I was just wondering if it's strictly necessary and worth it to use fancy steels. Would mild (1018) work for a screwdriver head just as well? I have gone and searched for information on what material is used in professional (ie, craftsman, ect) and searched the forum to no avail. Just looking for opinions/advice. Thanks for looking! Carpe Frigus Finem!
  12. Hey everyone, I just completed my forge and have it working quite well. I was hoping to start making tools as soon as possible and am looking for simple things to make that will benefit my skill set. I have an ample amount of rebar lying around the yard that i was hoping to put to good use by practicing my forging. Any suggestions on what i should focus my time on making?
  13. So now that I've started on my blacksmithing journey I want to try and collect together as many tools as I can from what I have at my house. My dad did a lot of different trades before I came along so I have a ton of his old tools lying all over the place. A lot of those are stone hammers, heavy hammers, etc. I highly doubt I'm gonna find any kind of tongs but I might get lucky. Literally my dad did everything from stone masonry, to welding, to working with muzzle loaders as a hobby. So I literally have a whole garage to sort through! I'm gonna need some help figuring out what hammers/tools will work well, won't work well, or what'll be fine once I clean it up. There'll be lots of pictures to help with that process though. Okay here come the pictures of the stuff I found so far (the garage is a hot mess and is doubling as a small animal barn right now because I don't have a barn. Thankfully it's just rabbits, however stuff has gotten moved around and it's a mess). First hammer I found is a flat headed monster, thankfully not too heavy so I should still be able to work with it, just not sure what I'd do with it. Next hammer I found is a bit smaller so a little more manageable, it's a round headed hammer like the one I was working with yesterday so I'm definitely more comfortable with this. Just need to figure out how to clean these guys up. Here's a pair of vice grips (always handy), a ball peen hammer, and some assorted files. There's files literally everywhere of every shape and size I'm just not sure about the one with the handle but I'm sure I can use it for something. Here comes the fun part. Technically you could probably call these things chisels, I'm just not sure what the correct terminology is for blacksmithing uses. I've heard Alec Steele call things similar to these as fullers before, but again, not sure if I'd be using the term properly. Unintentional scale with butter dish and water bottle cap. As you can see I have some huge ones and some small ones. This one looks like it could be used as a punch, I just might have to tinker with it a bit. This one has some interesting shape to it but I'm sure it's just another small cut chisel/fuller/something And of course I managed to hunt down my father's favorite metal working "chisel" he actually made this one in a shop class of some sort when he was younger (now given my father was known to exaggerate quite a bit so I'm not so sure if this is completely correct or not) and he said they were learning how to temper things and that he had tempered this "chisel" 7 times. He also showed me that it rings like a crisp bell when dropped onto the head of a hammer (not too hard of course). I'm sure he was showing off since I was younger at the time but it's still a nice tool that I want to make sure I use for something. As usual any advice on cleaning up some of this stuff or ideas for uses or what it could be would be great! I think I know where I want to put my forge once I start building it, alas it's not going to be a permanent fixture since my S.O. and I are planning on moving out to our own place in the next year or so if we can do it. However! I can always start small with what I got and that's fine with me. In fact I might have a lead on a railroad tie for a first anvil! I haven't tried sniffing one out though, that'll be later. Also once I find more potentially useful tools I'll pull them out and take pictures and hopefully we'll be able to figure out what I can do with these things!
  14. With the tiny spoon taken care of I submit this next item for identification. It is labeled as a "Rosette Iron", which traditionally refers to an implement used in cookie making. One dips the iron into batter and then into hot oil. I don't think my tool was ever used for that purpose. The flat bottom would not be suited for making fancy cookies. Nor does it seem that it is a branding iron, it wouldn't make a distinct enough brand, I don't think. It may be something that is inserted into a similarly shaped hole and twisted, but for what purpose I have no clue. Looking for answers with thanks! 19 1/2 x 1 1/2 in. dia., Iron with wood handle ToolGal
  15. So a while back when i first started blacksmithing i purchased a box of 100 new old stock random files for $ 50 figuring anything i did not want i could always forge into somthing else in the box came all manner of single cut and double cut files and rasps rounds triangular half round , bandsaw files..... along with all that came three files? Made by nickelson usa that look like the following images it may be hard to tell but there are only file teeth cut on the lower half of the back. The sides are smoth and it is shaped like a knife file but all descriptions i have seen for knife files would still have teeth cut into the flat sides of the file? The crossection is a long wedge with a square back. Anybody have any ideas what the intended purpose of this file is?
  16. I bought this small vise at a trades day it looks like I small post vise but it doesn't have a post I was just seeing in anyone might know more about it then me. There is no name on it or any markings. Thank you
  17. Hello! First, I'm quite fascinated with the art. Second, I have an idea that I need opinions on. So, I'd appreciate if someone could share your thoughts. There is a Leeb hardness test, and i have an idea to make a tool for quick determination of hardness and thus identifying material if for some reason that is not known. i would like to know if anyone can tell me if there are any streamline tools to determine hardness (apart from file or Rockwell test). And most important if that is something that smiths would be interested in that? I know that the question is vague, but let's say one can determine hardness in few seconds with high enough precision to determine the material. I'd appreciate any opinion. Cheers!
  18. I took a couple of hours this afternoon to built a stand for my railroad track anvil. It is my first one I’ve ever built so it’s not top notch but it hasn’t fallen apart yet and it works pretty well. What do u guys think?
  19. Hello, all, I was reading a post on a welding forum where a guy needed to make a custom wrench for a specific application, so he ended up welding a socket onto the end of a combination wrench. In his photo, you could see the Heat Affected Zone near the weld (on the right-hand side of the wrench in the photo), which made me wonder whether the heat would have removed the hardening/tempering of the steel in the HAZ, and made the steel there weaker, by annealing or normalizing it. (I'm not sure you'll be able to view the photo without registering at the other forum, so I've attached it below in the belief that its creator would not mind me doing so.) I have chrome-vanadium steel wrenches at home that feel like they've been heated/quenched/tempered, because they seem to have a "springy" quality, but it may be that they feel that way simply because of the characteristics of the alloy steel they were made from, rather than because they were hardened and tempered. So: Does anyone know whether wrenches made of chrome-vanadium steel are typically hardened and tempered? If so, does that mean welding on them would "weaken" the steel by normalizing/annealing it? If so, should the welder have re-hardened and re-tempered the wrench after welding it? If so, does anyone have any idea of what temperature would be appropriate to temper the steel after quenching it? Thanks in advance for any replies. P.S. For the purposes of this discussion, please ignore the issues of cracking caused by carbon migration in the weld puddle and finished weldment, preheat and postheat to avoid cracking, and the use of specialized fillers such as ER310 (25% Cr - 20% Ni) to improve ductility and reduce the chances of cracking in the weldment.
  20. Found this item in the Ada area. Sadly out of my reach at this time. Though someone on there might need/find a use for it. Link removed
  21. Hey I have been looking at some shop presses recently and was wondering, is ther any reasons why i couldnt use a press from harbor freight like the one in the link? https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-hydraulic-shop-press-with-oil-filter-crusher-65330.html
  22. Hello all, new to this forum and I was hoping I could get some advice. I am really interested in Smithing and I would like to pick up this hobby, and I have some questions. I am going to start building my forge. I was thinking about welding two 20 pound propane tanks together. I plan on making knives and small swords/machetes and the likes. I plan on lining it with 2 inches of kaowool with firebrick on the bottom and adding a door and all that. It is going to be a propane forge. My first question is will this forge need 2 burners? Or just one? I know there are different kinds of burners. Am I going overkill on size? Should I just use one 20 pound tank? What size anvil should I be looking for? And I am aware that a belt grinder is the best tool for grinding the blades, but I'm trying to save money because I'm buying a pistol soon. Would a bench grinder suffice if I use a softer stone? Sorry for all of the questions I just want to do things right.
  23. Just wondering if anyone knows where i could get a pair of tongs for cheap in the UK or at least an equally as good alternative. Currently im using vice pliers but im not having much luck with gripping the metal due to the smaller surface area
  24. Just want to thank Ethan Harty for forging these tools for me. I would buy from him again no doubt. 5/5
  25. the beak is not much of a mystery, but what are the other things for? I don't even know how to describe them....
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