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Found 6 results

  1. Howdy smiths, I saw this posted locally for $65. I know very little about bellows except that they are big collectors items and usually sell for alot. Some nut job made this one into a table, and even though I wouldn't use it if I bought it I'd probably try to resell it. Does this look like something that I could make money on in its current state? Should I buy? Thanks
  2. New here. I'm looking for advise on fixing this up. The fan is free but the crank is locked up, I know ill have to t take it apart. Anyone have suggestions on what to do or where to start?
  3. A while back I bought for $65 a forge blower; and have been restoring it ever since. I've been attempting to remove both the grease and rust without power tools (since I'm a broke teenager), with electrolysis and simple green and a wire brush for months now. Here are some of the parts after I've cleaned them up a bit: Funny thing is that I can hardly find any information about the forge blower anywhere on the internet. Perhaps a couple listings on ebay, but that's about it. Gear casing that I just separated today. Any ideas of how I can weld the broken piece back on? Recently removed stand Not sure if I can do electrolysis on this fan. The gear is stuck. By that I mean that I can't get it out, but with the handle attached and the other gear installed, it spins rather well. I just want to get it out along with the worm gear so I can actually remove the grease and rust. This and going to the hardware store (at the start of the school year) are my only two obstacles currently. Also acquiring/building a forge without welding equipment. The stand has a rusty bolt that I was able to loosen a tad bit after doing likely the sketchiest electrolysis cleaning ever with the entire stand in a garbage can with holes in the bottom and double lined with garbage bags. Any suggestions on how I can push out the axle pin on the inner gear or the brass bushings would be wonderful. Rust/Grease removal as well, including information about this particular blower.
  4. many newbies want to mill or grind the top of their anvil because they think they must have sharp edges ( and they often end up wrecking a perfectly good anvil in the process ). so here is something just for those people a block made from fork lift tine about 1 3/4" thick, 3 7/8" wide and 4 5/8" long ( 45 by 100 by 117mm ) that can be ground if required without damaging the anvil, it has a 3/4" ( 20mm ) peg to go in a hardy hole and sleeves could be made for other sizes if required. even divots for riveting could be added
  5. I'm looking for tips or any type of do's & don't's advice I can get on restoring a Peter Wright anvil. The other day I was playing with my brake drum forge. I live on the corner so people are always driving by. I had a man offer to sell me a anvil. He was a older guy real nice. Told me he bought it at a estate sale 5 years ago but can no longer be around coal so had no use for it. Right now I'm in the middle of replacing my vans head gaskets so I couldn't go see it and knew he likely couldn't text me or email pictures. I asked him everything I could about it and he felt it was in good shape and flat. He then told me all he wanted was to see it be used and only wanted me to pay him what he had in it. Said he knows they're going for a good bit now but he said he paid $85 and only wants the $85 he put in it. So I was all over it like xxxx even though I only had $90 to my name and bought it sight unseen! After 15 hours of electrolysis removing tons of paint grease and rust I can see it's been road hard. It's got marks all over the face and someone has welded it before on the edges poorly. Marks from a stick welder tapping on it. Clearly was used to cut on.. What's the best way I can rebuild it? It's a 137lb (1-0-25) Peter Wright. Has (2) 4's on the front feet. I'm not sure what they mean. I'm not sure how the Peter Wright anvil was faced and don't want to hurt it more than it is. The guy who sold it to me never got to use it. I don't think he knew it was poorly welded. It had to much paint and rust to see it. I also feel he was honest because he showed of with the paper from when he bought it and tried to lower the price to $75. I gave him the $85 and he said he was going to give the other $10 to feed homeless kids. I must of had some good karma coming. Even had a nice big hot cut hardie! How can I bring this back to life?
  6. Hello everyone, I believe this is my first post on I Forge Iron. I am in some need of some help and advice. I purchased a rough Champion 401 rivet forge from a blacksmith in Townsend, DE for about $50. The blower is in pretty much mint condition, minus the wasp's nests and caked on grease and dirt I cleaned out of the fan area. The rusted out legs were basically fused into the mounting brackets, but managed to free them and replace them (took a month of chiseling and filing). I will be replacing the rusted out, paper thin base pan bottom with a new 1/8" thick plate. The only problem I am having is that the end of the blower tube and the front part of the frame is rotted. Is there anyone out there with a 401 frame and a matching blower tube that I can buy. There is a guy who lives four and a half hours from where I live that has what I need but refuses to mail it to me unless I pay double for it. He was asking $50 if I were to go there and take the blower he wants off it, but said last night that if he has take it off himself and ship it to me he is going to charge $100 (not including shipping). I just can't see justifying a final cost of around $150 for 1/5 of a forge that usually goes for $200 to $300. Driving there would cost basically the same. Can one be made? I am always up to a challege and I am not worried about historical preservation of the forge. I have a plan to make multiple style base pans for it and have it to be easliy swappable depending on the project. I will post pictures of what I have as soon as I get them taken and loaded.