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Found 19 results

  1. Hey everyone, I just recently picked up a Kern Machine Tool CO. Camelback Drill Press. It was originally purchased and used by the Maysville hydroelectric plant blacksmith shop servicing Salida Colorado. When that shop modernized it was shipped to the Glenwood Springs shop. Finally when that shop modernized as well an employee bought the drill, I then bought it from him. So this drill has seen a lot of use and history. I want to lightly restore the drill and make use of it in my shop. It has been well taken care of and the Babbitt was only poured 5 or so years ago and seems tight with rem
  2. Hello all. I just stopped by my local antique store on my way home from work to see if they had a leg vise on hand. Sure enough the owner did and I ended up leaving with a rusty old vise that he says he got up in Boston bar, BC. Perhaps it is a remnant of the gold rush that happened in the mid to late 1800 in BC. Any who. I brought it home and quickly disassembled it and started at it with a cup brush. The only mark I found was on the female end of the vise thread. A letter stamped M or W. Can anyone help me I'd this vise? Sorry if my photo size is too late. I have no idea how to reduce.
  3. I’ve started this thread to document the restoration of a small bench top fly press I recently acquired via the usual on-line auction site. The press was advertised as a “Barn find project” and “rusty and not moving” which turned out to be a fair and accurate description. I’ve wanted a small fly press for a while and always enjoy the challenge of bringing an old tool or machine back to life (to use, not for show) The final price at the end of the auction was GBP£24, about US$ 31. I guess I spent a similar amount on fuel to collect it and a 5 hour round trip in the car. (Broke the journey
  4. Rookie here, looking to scrape together a small shop piece by piece. I've been looking for anvils in WI and have been put off by the prices. Today, I found one in a broken down shed. I took some bad pictures with my phone. There's an upside down triangle on one side so I assume it's Columbian. It's really really rusty and has a chip out of the bottom corner of the heel. First off, can this be saved? It hasn't been used in decades. It has nice ring and rebound when hit with a wrench (that's all I had on hand). Any idea what I should offer for it? What would be a can't lose price? Do
  5. Hi all. This is my first post...anyway. I'm restoring a old axe head for a friend the blade is going to need alot of grinding to get the pitch of the blade right. Iv heard that that will make the edge prone to chipping if not heat treated properly after. The butt of the axe is horably mushroomed but I want to use the mushrooming to make a good hammer head. I don't know how to heat treat it to get a good solid edge aswell as a sturdy hammer head on the other side? Any advise, comments or questions would be much appreciated!
  6. Hello, This will basically be my first post on here, and I had a question: I've acquired a Trenton 152# anvil made in 1823, from a family member for free. I can use the anvil only if I refurbish it to function and look like brand new, if not better. I would like to clean ALL the rust off of this anvil, and build up and clean up come chips off the tool plate on top. What is the best, most efficient and thorough way of going about this? My budget to restore the anvil is around $300-$400, I have plenty of connects with machine shops and fabrication shops around here, I have an angl
  7. I live on a farm house and the barn next to me is full of old equipment. The main thing that caught my eye was the belt grinder. The entire thing is rusted. Keep in mind I know next to nothing about these things. I would absolutely need to rewire it and clean it up thoroughly but I'm wondering if it is doable for someone who has no experience. hopefully this imgur link works. if anyone can give me more info on this thing I'd appreciate it https://imgur.com/gallery/KvwwR
  8. A while back I bought for $65 a forge blower; and have been restoring it ever since. I've been attempting to remove both the grease and rust without power tools (since I'm a broke teenager), with electrolysis and simple green and a wire brush for months now. Here are some of the parts after I've cleaned them up a bit: Funny thing is that I can hardly find any information about the forge blower anywhere on the internet. Perhaps a couple listings on ebay, but that's about it. Gear casing that I just separated today. Any ideas of how I can weld the broken pie
  9. Hey, guys! I just bought this anvil, and I was wondering if I should use it as is, or if I should resurface it? If you can't tell from the pictures, it's an old peter wright from a foundry here where I live.
  10. Hopefully will be starting to build a electrolysis tank large enough to fit this Reed 108 in tonight. Looking froward to getting all 300lbs of this vise cleaned up, painted and restored. Haven't done one this big yet. Should be fun to see how it turns out.
  11. Following a recent retrenchment I decided to renew an earlier interest in blacksmithing and started planning a small garage forge set-up. A visit to a local salvage yard to investigate a hand-cranked blower was disappointing because the blower was beyond economic repair but by chance I found a 'German' style leg vice at a reasonable price which was in fair condition for restoration. This vice has the benefit of the extra-large side plates which provide additional support and stability to the front jaw and therefore was an immediate purchase. After surveying it I found that it is just missin
  12. So I found this old and really beatup anvil at work a few months ago so have gotten into smithing, nothing fancy just a couple of railroad spike knives and a pair of arm guards so far. But I feel like improving my workplace since I can't really make any smooth bends with these edges and it just bugs me the way it's been treated. Very deep grindmarks on the square horn and a minor one on the round one, chippings along the entire edge on both sides and in the hardy hole. On the plus side the face is flat and even without irregularities and it got really good bounce over all. Is it wort
  13. Hi all, I've got a Buffalo rivet forge that's the brink of death; the blower is a little champ but the hearth pan is another story. If I don't do something to line the pan is gonna be a goner for sure. I found a picture of a forge almost identical to my own on ebay. (see picture) When I asked the seller how he went about lining the pan he reported to using tile mortar; which seemed dubious to me. So I delved into the iforge forums and found two promising posts. The fist, complements of Charles R. Stevens: He suggested "...buy powderd clay, (fire clay) and mix it with sand
  14. Ok so I've got a old 321 pound Peter Wright Anvil. I was wondering if it will effect the value or worth of the anvil if I were to do some fringing on the top face. Mainly along the edges because there is some dings and chips along the sides. I'd like to grind a little to reshape at least one edge but if it's gonna mess with the value or anything like that then I'll just continue using a large separate piece of steel for the sharp edges. Any suggestions and or tips would be greatly appreciated Thanks.
  15. So I am currently living in Hawaii and decided to get into knife making. I started to look around for an anvil and to my surprise found this one on c list. The guy I got it from said he found it in a ravine behind a stable out here. It was rusty and he tried cleaning it with coke and a wire brush. I got it for $100 took it back to my place and cleaned it up some more to try to identify it. I found an upside down triangle with what looks to be a degraded C in it on one side and an M on the other. This leads me to believe it is a Columbian Anvil from Cleveland OH. Was it worth the price I paid?
  16. Hi All, I purchased a working bellow forge which looks to have been a type of rivet forge built somewhere around 1900-1930 i have not found identification on it. and I can not find any info on this type of forge except an old belgian hardware catalogue but they only had sideblast forges. the bellows work on the up and the down stroke but air was limited. It was spilling air at the return valves so at least the valve housing would need a complete rebuild. next was the tuyere which was clogged with debris and a few nice sized chunks of aluminum/aluminium and lead. I did manage to get the
  17. Hello everyone, I believe this is my first post on I Forge Iron. I am in some need of some help and advice. I purchased a rough Champion 401 rivet forge from a blacksmith in Townsend, DE for about $50. The blower is in pretty much mint condition, minus the wasp's nests and caked on grease and dirt I cleaned out of the fan area. The rusted out legs were basically fused into the mounting brackets, but managed to free them and replace them (took a month of chiseling and filing). I will be replacing the rusted out, paper thin base pan bottom with a new 1/8" thick plate. The only problem I am
  18. Hi, I have remade a set of hinges for an old chest belonging to my father. Not much to say other than it was a fun little project. A bit tricky to make it all fit but in the end a pretty nice result. The rivets are made essentially as nails and assembled from the inside and then riveted cold on the outside. Stock used: 25x4mm
  19. hey all this is my first post, i would say i am humbly familiar with coal smithing, but this little trinket seems to have fallen into my lap and i am trying to learn more about it... i know it is a champion blower and forge co. complete repair outfit No. 30... but as for what it is worth as a useable forge i am not so sure. I have used a bit of clay to line the pan as it is only 1/4" cast iron, and i am very unfamiliar with side-blast forges. so i dont know quite how to get this puppy cookin', which is mainly why i am posting. it has a 12" x 14" pan. is that even worth trying to work with?
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