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  1. I just saved an anvil from a trip to the scrap yard. It is a Trenton with a crack most, if not all, of the way through at the waist. It was repaired with 2 long bolts from the stand up through the feet and into 2 threaded holes, one under the horn and one near the hardie hole. It has a Trenton stamp visible on the right side with T175 on the front right foot and A36043 on the front left foot. I understand that T is the initial of the maker and that it is 175 lbs. I don't have the date of manufacture but based on some other responses in the forums, I assume something like 1901-1903. Anybody have access to AIA to get the manuf date? I can't confirm 100% but I suspect that the crack runs all the way through. I see 2 small tack welds on the right side but those 2 bolts are doing the job keeping it clamped down to the top of the stand. I'm not new to blacksmithing and metalwork but a repair like this would be a challenge for me. Based on other forum posts, grinding a v 1/2" all the way around and welding it back is only necessary if it cracks all the way through and hasn't been repaired. For the smiths that have been around a while, would you undo a repair like this and try to weld it back? Thanks.
  2. Hey y'all! This is my first official post on the site, thanks for having me! Just yesterday I bought my first anvil from a guy on Craigslist, I got it for $180 so it was a good deal in my opinion, despite the damage to it. As far as I know it's a Hay Budden, probably around 125lb (it weighs about 100lb without the heel.) there's an indication of a hardened steel plate welded to what I assume is a wrought iron base. The heel is missing, and I can't seem to find a serial number anywhere, so I would really appreciate any help identifying this beauty. Considering this is my first anvil, and I'm a newbie blacksmith at best, I don't plan on trying to repair this anvil any time in the near future. I know how you all feel about taking a grinder to an anvil face, so I won't ask, however there is a considerable amount of chipping on the face, and with a missing hardy hole, I can't easily make a striking plate either. In the eventual possibility that I need a more refined edge for forging, what repairs should I consider making? Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Edit: Also it appears this gal got rusted up pretty bad, and someone tried to paint over it. I don't want to risk ruining a patina that's older than I am, so I'm wondering if removing the rust and paint is worth doing, or if it's best to just leave it be. Thanks!
  3. Ok....so I know this is a very hot topic for many. I personally fall into the "anvils are a gift from God, don't defile them" camp. However...I would like to hear from anyone who has PERSONALLY been involved with or observed an anvil repaired PROPERLY with Robb Gunters method. My main questions are 1) Was the faceplate near the weld noticeably softer than the surrounding steel (logic says it has to be to some degree) 2) Does the Stoody rod blend with the rest of the face (unlike 7018 or other high nickel rods) 3) Were you satisfied with the results of the repair 4) (open to all opinions) When is this repair TRULY necessary. When does an anvil go from tool that should be utilised, to a collectors item the ought not be touched? Here's a pic of the anvil that's leading me down this road. An otherwise beautiful Mousehole missing a valuable chunk of real estate. FYI This is not my first anvil, this is not my only anvil...I technically do not need the hardy to be functional....but it pains me to see something not live up to its potential.
  4. Howdy! I'll attach a couple photos of an anvil my grandpa recovered from an abandoned farm. It's a smaller, 25lb (though she comes out to 22 and a half) anvil, very well used. The top is in pretty decent condition, actually. Not many divets or dents. One of the edges is in terrible shape, very big chunks taken out from it, and one side has what looks like fairly deep pock marks in the main body. The horn is in great shape, as are the hardy and pritchell holes. And, if anyone knows what kind of anvil this is, certainly wouldn't hate to have it identified! Much thanks in advance, and I'm pretty proud of her even if she is a bit beat up, as she's my first proper anvil. I'll include a picture of what I "worked" on before, just for giggles.
  5. Hi. my name is Pedro. i from Brazil. this is my first topic here. sorry about my poor english but i'm trying do my best with a google translation help hehe Recently i started to building my workshop and this weekend i found and bought a 4"1/2 leg vise that was covered by a lot of paint. so i cleaned it up and i descovered thar the jaws of my leg vise have so much rust that make holes on the steel. i want to know how can i possible repair this rust holes. the good news is that everything is aligned and there is no cracking or seriously damage to be concerned , so i am thinking to grind what i can and fill this holes with a 7018 stick welder i don't know if this is necessary but i want try to maintain the original appearance without this horrible rust holes BUT i readed that the body is made by wrought iron and the jaws is made by hardened steel so i'm afraid of put to much heat on the jaws with a sick welder and damage my vise. has anyone here that had the same experience as me? how did you do to repair that rust damage? this is the pictures of my poor rusted vise. this oranges spots is ink that i couldn't remove because of rust holes on it
  6. Live in Stamford TX. Found this anvil only later found it had a broke face, I'm a welder have burned 100's of lb of stoody 1105 rods hard surfacing tool steel would appreciate any and all comments and suggestions thank you. Trenton Anvil Images - Imgur Album
  7. I have a dead PETER Wright anvil. There is a 6" crack on one side between the hardface and the body. What would be the best weld process and filler to repair the crack?
  8. Hi all - I'm in the process of setting up my forge at my workshop so I don't have to go down to the group shop anymore I picked up an Australian 224lb BK (Bradford and Kendall) some time ago which needs some minor work. One of my first questions is to the construction of this anvil - the interwebs have conflicting reports as to if they are cast as one piece or have a separate face plate. Having a close look I can see no lines, protrusions or discontinuities that suggest there is a separate plate. Majority interweb consensus suggests one piece casting... It seems previous owners have done some fairly stupid things including hitting the heel with the old gas axe (probably while resting something on it). I'm concerned with extended work on the heel that the corner cut all the way to the pritchel hole is going to chip off / fail down the line. Worse is the middle of the far edge - looks like it had some kind of damage and has been badly welded. Whatever got used chips like bullets if struck... I spoke to a couple of the professional 'smiths locally (one of which is also a spec welder). He suggested simply vee-ing the heel and grinding back the edge to remove the bad weld material, preheating the anvil, then simply MIG welding with standard low hydrogen wire, peening each bead then finally leaving anvil to cool in a box full of lime... Any thoughts? The Gunther / Schuler repair guide seems to be the most definitive even though Stoody rods aren't commonly available here (I'm sure the local welding supplier can match based on spec). I am confident with MIG / TIG and can pull off a stick weld on a buzz box when needed. Thanks in advance, Anton.
  9. I am using an old (possibly 40 years old) cast iron firepot . It's about 9 inches by 9 inches at the top and four inches deep. The sides slope inward and the bottom of the pot is about 5 inchs by 5 inches. It appears to be about 1/2 thick throughout. We are burning smithing coal and using an old Canedy Otto blower. A hole has developed in one of the side walls, about 3/4 by 3/4 inches. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to repair it before it gets bigger and destroys the firepot. Thanks
  10. ok so from the title i have M&H Armitage Mouse Hole Anvil and i would to repair and fix it up. i just have some questions on fixing it up. since it was made around 1820 and 1835 would it have a harden steel plate on it? would welding on it ruin the temper, and harden face if it has one? what would be your recommended rod to use for welding? some other questions later on. i will not be working on this until i know what i need, what i need to do, and how to do it without ruining it.
  11. So I'm pretty new to blacksmithing, got hooked on it as kid only now at 17 getting into the hobby side of things. Unfortunately being 17 does mean a limited budget. My first ever anvil I ever got was a antique anvil/vise combo things that belonged to my grand father.My grandfather broke the vise right out of it, however because it was a Vise combo anvil thing... It has a great big hole in the body of it, were the threads used to sit. So I was thinking of cutting off the vise style base and welding on a new base. (I realize most smiths cringe at the idea of a novice welder [Would like to point out I now have roughly 2 years structural welding experience so I am decently confidant in my welding skills.]messing around with a anvil. But just you wait I'm just getting warmed up.) The other issue I have with the Anvil is the cast iron face on it. It's well a cast iron face, IE. it dents a even a light 1 lbs. hammer blow. I however want to now if it's a good idea to mill off the face in order to weld a steel tools face on to it. I'm going to be working on it in my Auto-Shop class so I will have access to; a mill, mig welding, arc welding, oxyacetylene torches, angle grinders and any other necessary tools. So to recap really quick: 1. Terrible legs and body support on the anvil, is it worth putting a new one on? 2. Removing the cast iron face and replacing it with a steel one? The anvil face is 6'' by 2&3/4'' by 1/8'' The steel face I plan on using is 6'' by 2&7/8'' by 3/8'' (L*W*H) The step is 3/4'' by 2&3/4''(L*W) The Horn is 3&1/2'' long the tip is roughly 3'' in diameter the widest part (Next to the step) is 7'' in diameter (L*D) The full height is 5&1/2'' The Tip of the horn to the far end of the base is 1' Attached are pictures of the anvil. Thanks for having read trough that short story of mine, -Ray Ps, even if I don't end up cutting and welding stuff I still plan on cleaning it up. (Sand blasting paint and rust off. Along with re-finishing the horn, as it really flat on top.[As is customary with cast anvils I know.])
  12. Hello, This will basically be my first post on here, and I had a question: I've acquired a Trenton 152# anvil made in 1823, from a family member for free. I can use the anvil only if I refurbish it to function and look like brand new, if not better. I would like to clean ALL the rust off of this anvil, and build up and clean up come chips off the tool plate on top. What is the best, most efficient and thorough way of going about this? My budget to restore the anvil is around $300-$400, I have plenty of connects with machine shops and fabrication shops around here, I have an angle grinder and various tools of my own as well as some common sense and patience. Any pointers are welcome, here is a picture I took for reference, forgot to take more detailed photos.
  13. Hello, I recently posted about this old Coal Forge in a previous forum but I was wondering the best ways that I could repair this fire pan and the bottom of the blower here. The piece is pretty rusted and I'm worried that if I try to rebolt the piece together it might break. Any thoughts on fixing? And also lining the pan with clay? What should be the procedure for that?
  14. Been running my tire hammer for several years and it's been great. However, in the last couple of days it's spit a couple chunks of lead out of the hammer, probably around 500 grains to 1000 grains each. It's easier for me to picture a couple cast bullets than try and figure out the grams or tenths of pounds. So far it seems the lead is holding OK, no rattle or doesn't seem to be loose, but I'm wondering if I'll be fixing it in the not to distant future? I didn't build this hammer, it was built at one of Clay's work shops several years before I bought it. I did have to go over several of the welds and fix them shortly after bringing it home. I'm wondering if maybe they didn't pre-heat the head before pouring the lead in. If I have to repair it I have a turkey fryer that I use to smelt scrap lead into ingots, so it's not that big an issue to melt it out. I'm thinking that if I do have to do that I will sand blast the inside and weld in a rebar cross member to lock it in place when I re cast it. Or is it a non issue and I'm worrying over nothing? Too full of silicon and grease to get a good look in the head, may just be a little extra that flaked off. I plan to run it till I start seeing the lead get loose.
  15. many newbies want to mill or grind the top of their anvil because they think they must have sharp edges ( and they often end up wrecking a perfectly good anvil in the process ). so here is something just for those people a block made from fork lift tine about 1 3/4" thick, 3 7/8" wide and 4 5/8" long ( 45 by 100 by 117mm ) that can be ground if required without damaging the anvil, it has a 3/4" ( 20mm ) peg to go in a hardy hole and sleeves could be made for other sizes if required. even divots for riveting could be added
  16. Hay everyone, several years ago my grand father handed his old anvil that he had gotten from his father over to me. What looks to be an old Peter Wright. As of two year ago I started putting it to use, making knives here and there and just generally fixing things. Also coming up in a few weeks I have a booth for a local farmer's market that I'd like to include hand forged items in. One thing that's always bugged me about it though is the lack of any square edges. All of it is 1/4-1/2" radius where its not been chipped and its been a trial just to make tongs. I know a lot of you will just say use i as it is but it would be nice if I could get at least one edge square for at least a few inches. Anyways, pictures down below, let me know what you all think.
  17. So I found this old and really beatup anvil at work a few months ago so have gotten into smithing, nothing fancy just a couple of railroad spike knives and a pair of arm guards so far. But I feel like improving my workplace since I can't really make any smooth bends with these edges and it just bugs me the way it's been treated. Very deep grindmarks on the square horn and a minor one on the round one, chippings along the entire edge on both sides and in the hardy hole. On the plus side the face is flat and even without irregularities and it got really good bounce over all. Is it worth repairing this old wreck or should I look into getting a better one?
  18. My forge at work has served us well for several years, but it's about time it received some attention. A bit of background. It is situated in a historic village setting so we built it pretty much the way the old miners of the area built their forges to sharpen drill steels etc in the mines. It is basically a square of rock, filled with rubble and a top layer of crushed ant bed (including ants). A pipe passes through the rock edging and connects to a hand crank fan. Charcoal fuel. After several years, the pipe has been gradually eaten away and needs replacement. I am thinking of replacing it by adding one of those heavy iron axle hubs from an old wagon. We have lots of them in different sizes. The one lying in the ash in the picture has about a 1'' opening and the steel is about 3/8" thick. I'm hoping the thicker steel will last longer. I am also going to lift the wall a little with more rock, leaving a channel on the anvil side to allow longer stock to rest at a good depth. Any suggestions would be welcome. I've attached a couple of pics to get an idea of the current set-up.
  19. Watched a bunch of videos, built myself a brake drum forge, commenced my hunt for an anvil and was lucky enough ( I think?) to find a well worn 162LB anvil that was basically given to me by an older fellow who was moving. Since I'm a complete newbie ... maybe fired up the forge and banged on the anvil 1/2 a dozen times to start to feel my way around things ... so I'm not in very good position to evaluate whether or not I should attempt to "clean up" my anvil ... the edges are pretty banged up but there's certainly are workable well radiused areas, some pitting on the face as well as a couple of gouges. I'm not interested in filling in the chip on the edge but I would like to hear opinions with regard to cleaning up the face and redressing the edges. Images below and thanks in advance.
  20. Hi, I got this hay budden as a throw in on a package deal because of the horn damage, the face is nice, has really strong rebound i really like it I'm using now and plan on keeping it as my user but the horn is really dinged up bad and caved in like someone used a air powered chisel on it, I've been reading for the past two weeks on repairs searching this forum but most of the pictures won't open so it's hard to get a reference point, and from what I gathered my choices are to leave it alone and use something else as a horn I do have a spare anvil, take a flap disk to it or weld and as far as welding I've seen using 6010, 6013, 7014, 7018 I'm not a professional welder so that would be my last option. Please share your opinions, maybe pictures of anvils that had this problem and were repaired
  21. Daniel S

    Bent Vise Leg

    I picked up a small vise at Quad State a couple of years ago. I finally got around to straightening it. Having a vise already mounted really helped with tweaking it, but I did most I've the straightening on the anvil. It took a little bit to get it hot, but was an easy fix. Don't let a bent leg scare you away from a vise, try to use it as a bargaining point.
  22. I'm in the process of restoring an old leg vice, and I've discovered some deep cracks and rifts in the metal underneath a thick layer of rust. The entire vice seems to have been hand forged at least 50 years ago, and some of the cracks are in between layers of steel that weren't completely welded together during the manufacturing process. Others seem to have formed from heavy use throughout the life of the vice. I was wondering if any of the cracks would require welding before I reassemble the vise post-restoration. Attached are some pictures of cracks I've found. I'll post more as I uncover them and remove their rust.
  23. SAH

    Vise repair

    I have a leg vise, I'll post pics I'm going to fix the (screw box)? just can't find any pics on how it should be placed or mounted I have a couple others but there not like this one and does it look like there needs to be anything else I'm missing .thx
  24. Gentlemen! Browsing through wares back in my home area in preparation for my visit back next month, I've stumbled upon a post vise for sale. A few things caught my eye on this. The price in my opinion is slightly high at $145, however I have barely stepped down the path of blacksmithing and therefore haven't the experience on knowledge on the pricing. I see the crack in the post but feel that it would possibly be worth the effort, as I've seen worse repaired fairly easily. I notice a lack of a spring, which isn't horrible as I know someone who could help fabricate one fairly easily. BUT I'm not entirely sure this vise is supposed to have the spring. I'm attaching the few pictures I have and will be sitting by waiting for the advice and 2 cents from those more knowledgeable.
  25. I have the opportunity to purchase a new anvil with some small cracks in it, and, as a result, a pretty good discount. I'm curious to know what you think about the condition. Will these cracks need to be repaired? Could they worsen with use? The placement of the cracks seems a bit inconvenient, since they are on the corners of the side shelf. Any advice or insight is greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures of the anvil face:
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