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Steve sells I will try to explain how I do wooden sheaths, with and with out leather and metal hardware, and if time setting stones like cabochons. for now lets not worry about what kind of wood. all that matters it it will hold together, so soft woods are not the best choice. also if the wood will be visible you want a attractive color and grain pattern. If fiddle back or such stabilizing will be needed to keep it from falling apart also I start with splitting the wood plank down center to get 2 flats for east side. by starting with One thick piece and splitting it I get to match the grain for later with its finished 2 separate boards are not likely to look as one. after plainning and rough sanding (80 grit) the insides I mark these inner sides at one end so they align later more easy for this example I will use a sword for giving us enough space for a liner and lots of hardware. but I use the same basic methods for a dirk lay the blade on the wood tracing out the outline of the blade, then I do the other also this is my starting point. I use the drimel tool to cut about half the thickness of the blade deep, so if the sword is 1/4 inch thick at base I will cut both wides to 1/8 inch deep here. then carefully remove the wood in the ares the blade laid. ( yes i know its going to be a little to large, and thats good ) I sand this area to 8-0 grit also leaving a over size slot, test fitting the blade until there is easy play to insert and remove the blade. you can check by coating the blade with colored clalk ( I use the stuff for carpenters string lines) THis is for a simple wood sheath. Now for the leather liner, the tricky is starting with ONE side I lay in the leather liner I am using. elmers glue is nice for this the white cheap never lasts like other glues. this temp hold allows me to check spacing again, not the blade should still slid in and out ok, if not then remove the liner form than side and sand a little more enlarging it slightly,. after it seems lightly loose, then do the same to the other side except now with both sides having a temporary liner it should crab a little bit after a few test fits I get teh vblade to slightly grab as it slides in and out, all the way in. after I get thsi THEN i clean up the white glue and prepare for final gluing. Before I go one let me explain a few things I like the blade to stay in the sheath and not wobble around so I do want a little tension while its inserted, also avoid chemical tanned leather for a liner, the chemicals are currosive to the steel blade!!! I have been told lambs skin is best to use duw to the natural lanolin, but I have no sourse for it back to installing a liner. since we test fit it, and trimmer , now we use a permany glue to install the liner. I actually use elmers Yellow wood glue it holds well enough and can be removed later if I HAVE to repair it later. after gluing this down ( both sides ) i clamp the sides together again, ( i use 20 to 30 2 inch C clamps for this same as I do when I an test fitting it, then i PLACE THE BLADE INSIDE THE SHEATH TO DRY this keeps a bubble from forming that may block blade insertion later. I let this set over night, after its dry remove clamps and check the insides trims each side of extra leather that over hangs we want a nice meeting of the leather no over laps, or extra hanging out. Obviously we want thin garment type leather not mototcycle jacket hides ! Lol not trim the out side of the wood, because up to now its still a block of wook with leather liner added. leave at least 1/4 of wood on all sides more if not stabilized. I use the same grinder but NEW belts dont want metal dust ruining the wood. I get this very close to what I want for a final contour, then I can start working on hardware. We will finish this after Hardware... I at least get a collar around where the blade enters the sheath to hide and protest the end grain of the wood sheath many will also get a tip at the pointy end to protect it., I try not to form hot hetal on wood (I have had to do it, more about that later) so I made a few templates to use mild steel blocks shaped like ends for sword and knife sheaths, as well as the entrance places too, these I clamp into a vise and use as sweges for forming the metal also stake anvils I made. I can work got or cold and test fir to the wood with out fear of burning as its cool when I test fit remember as we work metal hot its size will be different than after it cools due to expansion. on the slotted end where the blade enters mostly I can use a simple 1/2 wide 16 gauge or thinner brass, make the wrap braise if closed and add a oblong disk for one end to make the slotted piece. OR add details like engraving angles how ever you wish it. I have a dirk I wear at ren fairs what I plated with Stirling silver over the brass. double coat. no protective over layer so its aging nicely looks very old now also did pommel and tip of sheath same way I mentioned rarely hot fit, the one exception I found was wrought iron I also did a leaf blade that is in the forum, sword belt mount that was not at the end but 6 inch away from the slot where the sword entered, so I have to forge close, then hot fit and quench fast to fit it. using pins to pull it tight after it cooled. I over sized the sheath around this point and removed the last after fitting so no burned wood remained, I planned fopr the scorching also after fitting and removing the wood I still had to etch the Wrought Iron fittings, so I double coated varnish (to be removed later) and applied ferric chloride alternating with Hydrochloric acids to etch and add topography. I used q tips to apply both acids and the neutralizers. then neutralized and removed the heavy coat of cheap varnish along with any stray acids colorization. and after full clean up did a proper finish ok enough of this for now Rich hale has something to share, so I need to give him some time tonight. I wanted to give you ideas of other ways to present a Fine blade rather than sewing leather. Rich Hale Just a couple of updates. I was asked to show a knife or two that we had worked on in the lessons This is one we did a slotted guard on And we soldered the guard in place,,showed how the blade is notched For fit and finish that soldered joint should be clean. It is also on the top of the blade. clean there also... The finished piece should look like guard and blade are one piece. Like this We also did a piece with bolsters. And we left the back end of the square.. They do not have to be They can be curved,,,,remember four ins riveted to hold them on And again the final fit and finish should be as if they are part of the blade,,,not add-ons I do those bolsters so I can have an area to engrave We also did a hidden tang with a slip on guard Now a short bit on woods That bright gaudy handle is stabilized maple burl Rather than just put the block on I cut and added black and silver spacers A few stabilized blocks ready for handles,,,I hit one end with a buffer to show colors Thuya burl Maple burl Spalted maple Red gum burl from Oz box elder Dyed and stabilized, One more thing about the last block,, It is cross cut from the tree . So you are looking at it like you were at top of tree looking into the grain...you can see growth rings if ya look And the last I will share is walnut When we have worked so hard on a blade,,to me it does not make sense to cut corners on fit,,finish or materials .