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Found 5 results

  1. Hello all, This is both my first attempt at posting as well as forging. Please let me know if this is not the appropriate place to post this! My problem is heating the steel I have. My set up is a propane tank forge with the front cut off and a back vent. The open space inside may have a diameter of 6". The single burner is simply propane running to a perpendicular pipe with a small hole drilled. The flame I am getting may be 85-90% blue with the rest being yellow. I blocked off both the front and back entrances as best I could and was running it at about 15-20psi. The steel never received enough heat to even get to the dimmest glow after about 30 minutes of trying. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance! Cheers
  2. I have been playing with a WVO fueled Burner in a pile of bricks as a furnace. Had a bit of a disaster when I went to melt some aluminium and burned through the steel crucible in about 4 minutes.
  3. Hi guys, So I have been blacksmithing for a few months now, only about an hour or two every few weeks because of school. Every time I run into the same problem and every time I tell myself it'll be different. I have a very hard time heating what I put into the forge correctly. Today I was making a hook from 3/8 square stock and at one point I burnt off the end. It seems to always happen. As such I'm scared of keeping it in the forge long enough to even get a decent heat. I have a brake drum forge so I typically have to stick it into the coal at about a 45 degree angle due to the edges of the drum. I am also using a hair dryer which I suspect is blowing wayyyyy too hard. When I took my blacksmithing course at a shop I never had this problem it seems to just heat the iron evenly and with minimal to no burning. Does anyone have some tips for someone with a brake drum forge (other than to get a real forge) to prevent burning but obtain a nice high even heat? Thanks.
  4. Brake Drum Forge I am relatively new to the Black Smithing community and have been looking for ways to build a simple, cheap (economically) Forge. The design I have decided to use is a Solid Fuel Charcoal Forge. I recently acquired a brake drum and am planning to either sit it or weld it into a sheet of steel, around 3/16 thick. That is what I plan to do and I would like to know what you guys think and if you have any suggestions please don't hold back, just don't be rude. Thanks! Jakob I. Here is a picture of the drum and 2 RR spikes I found.
  5. Everyone out there @ IFI, I'm new to the forum. I really could use some technical advice regarding the Victor 315 FC torch handle, 6-MFA tip I'm using with it, and the Smith gasaver (WDW 101) the torch is connected to. The longest I've been able to keep it running with out a flashback is about 3 1/2 months. I've had to send the torch in for service 3 times in 12 mo (clogged flashback arrestors). It's getting expensive and frustrating. The gasaver is compatible with acetylene. A blacksmith I know, who uses an 8 MFA tip with his gasaver, recommended setting the oxygen at 40psi. This worked for awhile until another flashback occurred. I've included a link to a video of the torch stand. Students use this piece of equipment so it is spring loaded- it cant be left running unattended. Is using a gasaver in conjunction with a heating torch tempermental? Should I not let students set up and shut down the station? I would greatly appreciate any suggestions, recommendations, and shared experiences any of you may have. Sincerely, Evertt Here is the link to the 1 minute video: