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Found 54 results

  1. I am forging 304 stainless steel. It has a hammer textured surface and want to remove the blackened surface but not remove the hammer marks with grinding. My goal is to remove the blackened surface and then wire wheel to brighten the surface. I soaked it overnight in a citric acid bath. The solution is a concentration of 1 pound citric acid/ gallon of water. There was no discernable change in the blackened surface. I did get some cleaning benefit using BarKeepersFriend (Oxalic Acid). Any suggestions?
  2. Hello I'm very new to this website so hopefully I've done this right, I was wondering if anyone knows where to purchase spring steel bars in NSW (not just the handy leaf or coil springs I'm used to). Someone told me that, phil Johnston from forgemasters had bought it regularly for jobs. But I've tried to find places to buy it, and the best I've come up with is Spring steel flat bars from South Australia. If anyone could point me in the right direction or if you know where forgemasters got theirs I'd really appreciate it. -thanks, Kaylem
  3. I would like opinions for those who have used flypresses for general forging work what sizes they prefered and why. Are you all happy with your press? If not, what size would you prefer? Thanks Josh
  4. so as a newbie if i was to go and try to forge a knife out of a leaf spring- after checking for cracks in the stock- what is the worst that could happen if i "forged it wrong" i really know nothing about this so please let me know what i am dealing with. cracking? shattering? also if this is already discussed in another thread then pls redirect me. thanks in advance i dont really care if my knife stinks, but what are the dangers of breaking etc.
  5. Hi, I'm fairly new to forging and am having issues with my blades rusting alot. It seems like every time I make a knife 1-2 weeks later I will look and see light rust building up on the whole blade... any ideas on how to keep this from happening?
  6. So, I'm writing a paper for my English class, and I decided to write about two things I have a passion for. My question is which version of metal work is better? Who here would take blacksmithing over welding and vice versa. Why do you choose one over the other? I'd love all of your opinions and I can't wait to hear from you all.
  7. So I'm trying to learn more about forging. I'd like to get into tool, decoration, and probably weapon making. Everywhere I've looked has advised a larger anvil 75lbs+ but I can't seem to understand why. I understand the difference in types of anvil except for weight. Does an anvil weighing 150lbs have an advantage over the 100lbs of the same make, if so, what's the difference? Better bounce back or what? Everyone talks about how weight matters for your application but I've yet to read from any book, forum, or site as to why it matters. Thanks, Zack
  8. Is a rounding hammer very usefull/nessary in blacksmithing? Is it something I should definitely have or not?
  9. Hi my name is Boedie I'm 16 and have been trying to get into blacksmithing I've forged acouple things in a forge I made out of a old grill filled with dirt, if anyone has any tips or advice I'd be glad to hear it, i live just north of Atlanta GA
  10. I was given a 0.5x1x14" piece of O1 to play with. Up til now I have only used leaf spring steel (with good results). Any pointers before I start swinging? Thanks guys! Btw I'm using a 3lb cross peen hammer on a 195lb anvil.
  11. Hello from 10,000 feet! Ugh, I never know what to say when introducing myself. My name is Clayton, and I live in the highest incorporated city in the United States (Leadville, Colorado). I'm really new at smithing, and don't have a lot of support as far as teachers in my area. Basically, I've learned a whole bunch from youtube and the black hole that is the Internet. I got into all this stuff because I simply need a way to relax. My job and family are fairly stressful, and smithing/making stuff is super fun. This summer, I'm working on building my first gas forge. I'm using an old propane cylinder to house everything, insulating it with kaowool and a coating of satanite. I'm hoping two 3/4" burners will be enough for the project. It's so hard to tell because I live at such a high altitude. I may have to construct some sort of blower for the thing to work properly. That's a forum post for another day though. Please take some time to say hello. I'll try my best to respond to everybody.
  12. I'm looking to make a start in the Forging world, however I'm having a bit of a problem finding a place that offers classes or apprenticeships in my area. If anyone has any information on schools or classes given near Peoria, I would greatly appreciate the knowledge.
  13. DRoeder

    Crusades Dagger

    9 7/8", 5160 blade. 15 1/4" O.A.L. Crusades Dagger. This is elegance at its finest !
  14. DRoeder

    Damascus and Ivory

    5 1/4" Damascus Hunter. 210 layer Damascus with fossilized walrus ivory, and Bog Oak. Damascus fittings. This was built as a take down knife.
  15. Hello everyone, I'm new to this site, but everyone here seems to give rather in depth answers to other peoples questions, so I figured I would ask one of my own. I just changed the rotors on my vehicle, they seem to be a cast iron of sorts. I was wondering if it is possible to turn them into a knife, or blade of some kind. If I need to build a hot fire and hammer away for days on end, I'm willing to. But I would like any and all pointers. If possible will you try to keep your answers in laymans terms? I am not quite as fluent in the metallurgy lingo as I should be. Thank you for any and all help!
  16. I have seen in some YouTube videos, people are using tong clips. I thought it might be handy if I could get one or forge one myself! if some one could tell me a bit more on this that would be awesome. Ethan
  17. What do you think...? The Story I was given used/discard planer blades that I wanted to anneal and use as raw material for other items (e.g. little knife blades). They are M2 High Speed Steel. I have been reading a lot of information about using scrap steel from this and that--I really like the idea of repurposing material that would otherwise be thrown away. For example: It apparently use to be true that you could get saw blades from a mill and cut them up to make tools. After looking into the thermal treatment guidelines for M2 steel I think I would be better off buying an appropriate material. I am starting to think that the info I've read that questions the wisdom and economics of trying to use "unknown steels" may be more right than I had hoped. That trying to use "scrap" is likely to be a frustrating, often fruitless, and maybe even dangerous activity. I will appreciate your thoughts and experience with using discarded material -- especially as it relates to the Anchorage and The Valley regions of Alaska. ------------------------------------------ M2 High Speed Steel Thermal Treatments HEAT TREATING INSTRUCTIONS HARDENING Critical Temperature: Ac1: 1530°F (832°C) Ac3: 1610°F (877°C) Ar1: 1430°F (777°C) Ar3: 1380°F (749°C) Preheating: To minimize distortion and stresses in large or complex tools use a double preheat. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1100°F (593°C) equalize, then heat to 1450-1550°F (788-843°C). For normal tools, use only the second temperature range as a single preheating treatment. Austenitizing (High Heat): Heat rapidly from the preheat. For Cutting Tools: Furnace: 2200-2250°F (1204-1232°C) Salt: 2175-2225°F (1191-1218°C) To maximize toughness, use the lowest temperature. To maximize hot hardness, use the highest temperature. For punches, dies, and tools that require maximum toughness without hot hardness: Furnace: 2075-2175°F (1175-1191°C) Salt: 2050-2150°F (1121-1177°C) Quenching: Pressurized gas, warm oil, or salt. For pressurized gas, a rapid quench rate to below 1000°F (538°C) is critical to obtain the desired properties. For oil, quench until black, about 900°F (482°C), then cool in still air to 150 -125°F (66-51°C). For salt maintained at 1000-1100°F (538-593°C), equalize, then cool in still air to 150 -125°F (66-51°C). Tempering: Temper immediately after quenching. Typical tempering range is 1025-1050°F (552-566°C). Hold at temperature for 2 hours, then air cool to ambient temperature. Double tempering is required. For large cross sections, and especially for blanks from which tools will be cut by wire EDM, triple tempering is strongly recommended. ANNEALING Annealing must be performed after hot working and before re-hardening. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1525-1550°F (829-843°C), and hold at temperature for 1 hour per inch (25.4 mm) of thickness, 2 hours minimum. Then cool slowly with the furnace at a rate not exceeding 50°F per hour (28°C per hour) to 1000°F (538°C). Continue cooling to ambient temperature in the furnace or in air. The resultant hardness should be 248 HBW or lower.
  18. Hi gents, I am going to forge a couple of Braces to use at our summer camp in the pioneering program and was wondering if regular 1/2" diameter cold rolled 1018 would be strong enough to resist the deflection of applied force while drilling medium sized holes in beams say... 1 1/4" holes in green timber. This pic is what I am after making. Bill
  19. In time for the Halloween season, I forged the key to Hell from the Sandman series, written by Neil Gaiman. If you haven't read the works of Neil Gaiman, it is a real treat. Anyhow, the key is forged traditionally, I started with wrought iron, but ran into trouble, so this attempt is made with mild steel.
  20. I've been having to work out of town a good bit lately and when I've been home on the weekends, all the built up honey-do's have kept my coal forge being a cold forge. I've been carrying a 14" chunk of rail (it weighs right at 43#) in my work van for several months now. So I got fed up and took an angle grinder to one end of it. I got rid of the mushroomed edges, flattened out a rough cut that was made and added a couple of features. I started with a miniature horn on one side of the base and rounded the other side into a bottom fuller. Then I added a hot cut into the end of the web. I took an old cheap pair of small lineman's pliers someone had buggered the cutting part of, and ground them into a small pair of tongs with v-grooves to hold round or square stock as well as flat (Probably no more than 1/4" stuff). I cleaned up and freed up a small pair of rusted up snap-ring pliers and repurposed them as scrolling tongs. The tools aren't real big, that's a quarter between them. But they work for what I want them for. I bent a short piece of 1/4" round into a stand for my propane torch... I used a little scrap sheet metal, an old tin can from the side of the road and some kaowool (or something similar) scraps I talked the guys rewrapping the boilers and pipes and such at a NG Power plant out of to make a soup-can-forge. I fired it up yesterday afternoon in the back corner of the hotel parking lot. It got the 1/8" round stock up to bright orange easily. I made this little leaf keychain charm, brushed it with a brass wire brush while it was hot and will spray it with clear-coat soon. It was fun to get some smithing in.
  21. 5 1/4" Brut De Forge knife forged from a Nicholson Farriers Rasp.
  22. Hi guys, here is a little guide on how to forge a rams head wall hook. I am not a professional instructor and this is just the way I do it currently. I made a video and extracted the most important frames (full video on the bottom of the page): 1. Take a sqare bar (here 12mm) mild steel and draw down about 2 1/2 inches to half parent bar thickness 2. Split the set off section with a hot chissel along the middle 3. Fuller inbetween the horns and clean up with a file 4. Taper both horns (fold one horn back so you can work on the other)
  23. A well know blacksmith, from Maryland, passed away a few months ago and all of his belongings were sold off by his wife, daughter and apprentice. Some of the things I acquired included 15 years worth of notes and teaching material, chisels, polishing compounds and two huge bars of pure graphite. I can't figure out what he used the graphite for, neither could his family or his apprentice. Does any one out there use graphite in their forging process for any reason. Or did this guy just happen to have two really large bars of the stuff laying around.
  24. Greetings, gentlemen. I recently tried to do the stainless Damascus for the first time. In my blacksmithing master's shop (not having my own yet) we followed instructions by Ariel Salaverria to the letter (http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial16.htm). On the first attempt, the container burned through after several minutes, hence the stacked steels were too cold to weld. We thought that perhaps the temperature was too high or there was too much WD40 inside. Hence, on the second attempt we put paper soaked in WD40 only on one end of the container and we poured out WD40 after squeezing it inside. We also started with slightly lower temperature. Result - after several minutes the container exploded, scattering burning coke around the shop. Luckily, nobody was injured and the shop didn't catch fire, but it wasn't very nice. Please see the attached picture of container after it was recovered. Any ideas how to do it properly? Is there any other way to do stainless Damascus in the forge? It is a simple coke-burning forge. Many thanks!