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  1. I'm long winded. I'd rather say too much than too little.. A picture may be worth a thousand words, but the more important things I'll emphasize in bold Nothing can replace learning how to manage a coal fire in person from someone of experience. That said some folks may not have that opportunity. When I started using coal in my forge I wasted a lot of time, energy and fuel. I've learned things from trial and error, but even more from places like this. Proper fire management is one of the most basic skills anyone wanting to learn blacksmithing should know. I’ve had to teach myself most of thes
  2. Hello all, I am new to the community and anxious to dive right into some basic metalwork. However, I need a forge first. I've played around with plenty of firepits and hair dryers before, but i'm looking to really get going with a proper forge setup. I live in the country so space and fuel type are quite flexible. My only real constraint is that I want it to be capable of forge welding low carbon steels and maybe even pure iron for when my skills hopefully reach that point. To my knowledge that requires a temperature of around 2700° F. Do you fine folks think I should build o
  3. This was filmed way back in May just after I made the tomahawk mandrel video.. I haven't been feeling inspired to produce videos so this video has minimal edits. 1 to be exact. Been to busy with other things. I left in all the mistakes. which I usually do. It's part of the fun.
  4. This latest video has a production glitch.. I am posting it because it's has good information other than the non sync issue which is in process with the software company.. I really don't want to edit it again in the other software as I'm burnt out.. I can do about 40hrs on the edit than I start going crazy and want to run away.. **** this video was in response to a comment from a fellow smith about how plain and not really graceful a 4 rod handle is vs a higher count handle.. While I for the most part agree there are ways to make a lower count handle as graceful and interestin
  5. Hey all, This is my first post on this forum and I am looking for some advice. I know that my fiance and I want to forge my wedding ring together from Damascus steel using 1095 and 15N20. I have done no forge work before and would like to get connected to some resources in Minnesota. Does anyone know of any forging groups/ clubs/ random groups of cool forging people/ makers that meet up and just get after it in the great state of MN? I am looking into making a small forge to do some simple heat treating of high carbon steels but do not have the capacity to look into buying an an
  6. Well i got pnumonia so its gonna be a while before i should swing a hammer... Maybe another month so im doing planning in the meanwhile and i would apreciate your thoughts on this steel, avoiding beginner questions please im looking for input. So this is a roughly .7-1.4 carbon chunk with maybe 1-2% nickle supposedly made from manganese nails and deer bone. Dust to dust... Bones to steel. So i am thinking i will wrap it in a very low carbon steel wire(technically its iron because its under .02% but w.e its a really high manganese alloy so its steel) that will meld into steel with flu
  7. Using my coal forge, I wanted to weld an eye from a spring steel clip used on railroads. I brought the material to a good orange heat, beat out one end, scarfed that end, and then bent it back to form a loop. I then fluxed it with straight borax, buried it in the coal fire, and brought it up to a yellow-white heat. When I took it to the anvil, one tap sent the entire unwelded eye to the floor. It literally fell apart from a tap. The steel showed some cracking, which was not there when I shaped it. I tried another piece of spring steel, this from an automobile leaf spring. I drew out the e
  8. Hey All! So still learning lots everyday about Smithing. I have been learning on a Coal forge and have one all set to go into a building once it is built when the ground hardens here in Oregon! But in the mean time I have a Forgemaster Blacksmith model... ya I caved and just bought one instead of building one though i may still build one down the road... I wanted to get to where I could practice things at home that I am learning at the shop (40miles away) hence the gasser as i can open up the garage door while its raining out side and bang away...... My problem is with t
  9. Firstly, I was not sure where to put this, so I apologize if it's in the wrong section. Now, a brief story... I have never been very good at forge welding, most definitely due to lack of experience, but I made an ax the other day by welding a few sections of leaf spring together after wrapping it around a pipe for the eye. I thought I was starting to get it down.... But i digress, a friend of mine asked me to make him a Hardie cut off tool, and I only have some mild steel thick enough to fit into a Hardie hole, just needs to be made square. So I figured I would forge weld a section
  10. So I'm making a tomahawk with a high carbon bit in between low carbon steel. As you can see in the picture the steel hasn't completely welded together. Should I just put it back in The forge and try a few more times? Is there anything I should do before that?
  11. Hello everyone. I am pretty new to smithing, and this is my first time posting anything on this site, so go easy on me. Ive made tools and knives and such, but I just attempted my first forge weld yesterday. Nothing special, just some mild steel bar stock. It went way better than expected, they actually stuck very well, so I want to keep going. I have a LOT of old reciprocating saw blades (sawzall blades) and I want to try to weld a few, and if all goes well, I may try to make a knife out of it. My question is, what kind of steel are these saw blades likely made of? Will they make a usef
  12. This weekend my local blacksmithing group held a forge welding workshop for 2 days. The projects consisted of flux spoons, fire pokers, chain links, heart hooks and cable damascus. I have attached the images of my heart hook, "flux spoons" and cable attempts. The heart hook isnt perfect but im really happy with how the weld came out. The cable was interesting because we did not do the method i usually see. Most of the time i see people weld up the ends of the cable to prevent splitting then they heat the cable and twist it together tighter before welding it flat using the anvil. The way we wer
  13. So I've never forge welded before but want to start soon, would a fold weld be good or should I find something easier? (Also most of my welds would be for Damascus blades) (By fold forge welding I mean when you fold the steel on top of each other creating layers for those who didn't know.)
  14. I have the privilege of apprenticing under Rashelle a local blacksmith/instructor with Trackers Earth. During our forge day on May 12 she wanted to teach us how to forge weld a traditional belt axe head by forge welding a section of 1080 into the folded flat stock of mild steel. I'm excited about the options that the knowledge of forge welding is going to open up for me and hopefully this first project turns out. By the end of the day we had our axe heads shaped and annealing. This coming Thursday we'll start the grinding and clean up process and hopefully get them pretty close to finished
  15. So I am relatively new to blacksmithing, I haven't really been able to do much since I live in a third story apartment and it's winter, but I had this idea I can't get out of my head. What if you could fold copper into a mild steel billet? it would probably require a power hammer since copper melts a such a lower temperature than steel, but I think the result would be quite striking. I guess what I am wondering is if you more skilled blacksmiths think that it would be possible, or worth it to try. And how you would go about it.
  16. Zyphiza

    First try at Damascus

    From the album: first try at damascus

    Made this today was a good learning experience
  17. Does anyone have any tips for welding the back end of the axe head without melting the tip?
  18. I haven't been able to pin down a real definite answer as to the proper temperature of forge welding. I am assuming that the temperature range is slightly below the melting point by a few hundred degrees, but other than semi molten I don't know anything else. What is the general rule of thumb on temperature for forge welding; mild steel and high carbon, respectively? I don't want semi molten as an answer, because that doesn't tell me anything more than I already know.
  19. Hello All, New to this site and still moderately green in general. I have done a !SMALL! amount of forge welding and I have a question, or a try it and let me know/ill post pics eventually. So I am planning on making a Serpent sword viking style and I was wondering if I took a curved re-bar in between a few layers of varying steel plates Would I get the snake patter? Just curious, I know the issues of re-bar, everything from shattering to en even quality. but I think I got some good stuff for free which is allllllways nice. Thanks!
  20. Compiled by Adam Ford COMPARISON BORAX followed by BORIC ACID FORMULA Na2B4O7·10H2O H3BO3 MOLAR MASS 381.37 g/mol 61.83 g/mol MELTING POINT 1,369°F (743°C) 339.6°F (170.9°C) BOILING POINT 2,867°F (1,575°C) 572°F (300°C) DENSITY 1.73 g/cm³ 1.44 g/cm³ SOLUBILITY Water Water IUPAC ID Sodium tetraborate decahydrate (so-dee-um tet-ra-bo-rate dec-a-hi-drate) Trihydroxidoboron, Boric acid (tri-hy-drox-ide-o-bo-ron) DIFFERENCES BORAX followed by BORIC ACID Differences FORMULA Na2B4O7·1
  21. I've tried to forge weld before, and the last time felt I was close but resorted to finishing it with my stick welder as I began having trouble getting the forge hot enough. This seems to be an issue if it's been burning for more than 3 hrs and I haven't cleaned out the coke dust. No problem getting hot in the first few hours though, it's an 11" brake drum forge using blacksmith coke and a squirrel cage blower, flanked w/ fire bricks. This time instead of upsetting the end, splitting it and driving the bit into the end, I wanted to do faster that would ensure no lack of forging heat, so sha
  22. Hey Guys. I recently got a new forge and its a gas forge using LP gas and i really would like to do some forge welding or pattern welding. but whenever i heat my steal up and try and weld it all it does is compress it but not like it should be. it continues to have seems and wont just go into a single billet after several hours of doing this i still could never get it to go into a single billet. so i was thinking maybe I'm not heating it hot enough. I typically run at 16 PSI and let it warm up for 15-20 minutes until i put my steel in, what am i doing wrong that wont allow a forge weld? w
  23. Been having issues with forge welding for a while, either not hot enough or I melt it off, finally worked out i needed a deeper fire pt and which layer on the fire to forge weld in. Used a coke forge to do it in with some borax as flux. Started with a nice used chunky motorcycle chain, cut about 15cm off, heated and flattened it. Folded it 3 times and then drew it out into a small blade. Used a good 15-20 welding heats to do it in a a pile of flux, was hard to get out all of the air gaps in the billet, but I think I did alright, only one little crack from a small bit of failed weld in the w
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