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Found 12 results

  1. I tried to create a San Mai knife so I prepared the low carbon(scrap pieces) and the high carbon(file steel). Ground them clean, tag welded them together. All simple so far. I'm not sure if that's an issue but I only have simple borax not the anhydrous(I could bake it but I'm just not sure if it would make any difference). Before forge welding I brought it up to red heat, brushed off the scale from the sides and covered it with borax(though it felt like none of the borax could get between the layers). I forge welded it 3 times to make sure it's done(waited until the first sparks appeared and hammered it lightly), Though I couldn't see any borax spraying out between the layers(again it felt like the borax was not even there). After it cooled down I started bending it a couple times in a wise and the layers got seperated. Any advise how to improve my procedure?
  2. Hi, New to this forum and new to blacksmithing, Nice site appreciate the work you did and do. If I may ask a question - Is there something like borax that can wash out the gunk from say cable rope in the same way like borax. Did use sand, clay and also WD40 but my understanding so far is that they exclude air only not clean out the impurities. On my third forge weld attempt had great success with WD40 as a flux. Here is a pic. BTW are those decarb lines or delamination cracks. Would help me a lot to know. Thanks again, David.
  3. I've seen a few recommendations for baking regular laundry borax to make it anhydrous (or at least olihydrous), with the consensus being an hour or two on a pan in the oven. I have two questions: 1. Will this produce any fumes that will jeopardize the health and safety of my family and my dogs? 2. Will this damage the pan? I suspect that the answer to both of these is NO, but would rather be on the safe side.
  4. Here's a quick question for an expert... I get a good bit of molten slag or scale in my forge. I've been forging meteorite iron and I'm not sure if the liquid in the forge is molten slag or molten scale or something else. I use to think it was excess borax from welding, however in my new forge I get a good amount of this molten material and I haven't used any borax flux. I typically scrape most of this liquid out while forging. I'm surprised how much there is. I keep the forge really hot because of the nickel content of the iron so I forge at welding temperatures pretty much all of the time. A couple of questions: 1. Is this molten slag or molten scale (or is that the same thing)? When it cools it's brittle with a much lower density than iron. Would meteorite cause more of this material than normal iron? 2. I forge welded some pieces of meteorite without using borax flux. I actually used the molten material to see if it would act as a flux and it squired out just like the borax flux does and it appears that I have a good weld. Have you ever heard of that before? Does this molten material help in anyway with a weld, or does it hurt the weld versus just cleaning the metal with a brush before putting it back into the forge to get it up to welding temperature? Thanks!!! James in Orlando, FL
  5. rthibeau

    fluxopener4.JPG

  6. I've got a bladesmithing book," The Complete Bladesmith: Forging your way to Perfection", and in this book it says that I can use borax as a flux material. I know that it can be used but the book said I have to melt it down, then once it hardens into a dark glassy material just grind it down it into a powder and then I can use it. Is that really necessary? I looked around a little on the Alchemy, Formulas, Fluxes, etc but have only read that I can just use the borax out of the box.
  7. Compiled by Adam Ford COMPARISON BORAX followed by BORIC ACID FORMULA Na2B4O7·10H2O H3BO3 MOLAR MASS 381.37 g/mol 61.83 g/mol MELTING POINT 1,369°F (743°C) 339.6°F (170.9°C) BOILING POINT 2,867°F (1,575°C) 572°F (300°C) DENSITY 1.73 g/cm³ 1.44 g/cm³ SOLUBILITY Water Water IUPAC ID Sodium tetraborate decahydrate (so-dee-um tet-ra-bo-rate dec-a-hi-drate) Trihydroxidoboron, Boric acid (tri-hy-drox-ide-o-bo-ron) DIFFERENCES BORAX followed by BORIC ACID Differences FORMULA Na2B4O7·10H2O H3BO3 BORAX much more complex MOLAR MASS 381.37 g/mol 61.83 g/mol Difference 319.54 g/mol MELTING POINT 1,369°F (743°C) 339.6°F (170.9°C) Difference 1029.4°F (554.111°C) BOILING POINT 2,867°F (1,575°C) 572°F (300°C) Difference 2295°F (1257.222°C) DENSITY 1.73 g/cm³ 1.44 g/cm³ Difference 0.29 g/cm³ In the end, You will have to heat the metal a lot less to be able to get the metal fluxed with Boric acid. This is JUST A REFERANCE SHEET I am NOT ADVOCATING FOR ONE OR THE OTHER, THAT IS YOUR CHOICE This sheet may be used as you want. Redistribution is fine by me
  8. Hey Guys. I recently got a new forge and its a gas forge using LP gas and i really would like to do some forge welding or pattern welding. but whenever i heat my steal up and try and weld it all it does is compress it but not like it should be. it continues to have seems and wont just go into a single billet after several hours of doing this i still could never get it to go into a single billet. so i was thinking maybe I'm not heating it hot enough. I typically run at 16 PSI and let it warm up for 15-20 minutes until i put my steel in, what am i doing wrong that wont allow a forge weld? what should I be doing to obtain forge welding temperatures?
  9. Hey fellows, I just wanted to share a little project of mine. Today I forged a spoon to apply borax or sand on workpieces prior to forgewelding. Handforged out of 5/8" round mild steel. Yours - Daniel
  10. Recently I came across a little "portable gas forge" on Ebay for $200 and I may add that its the best working little forge. however I recently had a bit of an issue, I wasnt paying attention to my temperature and managed to melt through the ceramic blanket insulation, the firebrick shelf, and the bricks I put on the back of it, as well as several pieces I was attempting to work on. so my question is this, where is it possible to get insulation over 3000 degrees, why do people think its impossible to forge weld with gas, and how do people figure a gas forge will "Make the iron wither away instead of totally melt like a coal forge would do". It took no longer than 2 minutes to end up with a puddle of knife (keeping in mind I was using old lawn mower blades, forge welding them into solid billets and drawing them out) Can someone at least suggest how to better control the little monster? Its maximum PSI capacity is 30, I was operating under that and burnt the forge up (burner is still good!) I have a few pictures below to justify what I just said, the picture of the forge was AFTER I pulled the burnt insulation out just to show how little the thing is, the melted knife, and the insulation, brick, and shelf, as well as a picture of it lit that I took in bright light, with my cellphone
  11. I am looking for a source for easy weld flux. I'm just about out. Does anyone know if it is still available and if so where it can be purchased?