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  1. Disclaimer: if this is too many photos, or if they are too large, let me know and I will size them down further. I don't have a good idea yet of the resolution/KB that is too much. Hello, smiths. I was recently given a good birthday gift: the time and space to assemble a make-shift forge, light it, and forge. My sister and brother-in-law brought dinner, allowing my wife space to take care of Little Bean and take pictures, and my brother-in-law manned the blower so I could do less first-timer multitasking. The setup was put together in about twenty minutes. The metal bucket is full of dirt to make an adjustable-height, fire-resistant stand. The white bucket holds the charcoal. My BIL and I alternately used my hammer and a scoop to work the fire. Note: my long-term setup will be in the white shed, but it needs to be moved out from under the maple tree, and the pandemic has diminished my labor pool (D&D brothers). Things Learned: - My anvil is much quieter than I anticipated. - My homemade charcoal produced almost no smoke once it was up and running (smoke picture was in the first five minutes). - The face of the anvil and the top of the forge both need to be elevated; I'm thinking 8". - The stump--not my first pick--is too wide. It kept me farther from the anvil, straining my back. - My little blower is not only capable of creating welding temperatures, it can burn steel. - My daughter, who watched from a distance, is hypnotized by forging. - My wife is a natural at taking forging pictures. Final note: I know I should not learn forging on rebar. My stock needs organizing badly. I would value your thoughts, opinions, commentary, and glowing compliments on my lady's photographic skills.
  2. I’ve been interested in blacksmithing since I was 9 or 10 years old. Around a month ago, I finally finished my forge. I’ve had my anvil stand done for around 2 months now. I mostly just use a 3 pound sledge I picked up at a flee market for $5. I don’t normally have the stand this close to my forge, I was just doing this so you could see it a bit better. I weighed my “anvil” and it’s around 50 pounds. The thing on the side of the stand is a railroad spike hammer head. I use it to round metal. The forge is a sink lined with firebricks and sand. I usually put a cookie sheet on top to trap the heat in a bit better. I use a hairdryer as a bellows. Thankfully, this setup is pretty cheap, even unemployed 14 year old me can afford it!
  3. Hello again everyone! I've been learning a lot from these forums and everyone has been great so far. I think I'm ready to attempt making my first forge. Its not exactly what I want but I live in city limits and hope to move in the relatively near future so u opted to build convenient over desire. I've read must be 2 dozen threads on here alone but still feel I'm just grasping at the concepts so consider this a wide open invitation for constructive criticism as I wont he starting construction until i see some green lights from you guys. So heres the plan: I think the JABOD is the best foundation for me right now as good red clay is abundant for me to work with. I've got a 4 inch deep, 24 inch diameter galvanized steel pan I plan to line with that clay about 2 inches thick and sloping down into the tuyere. The tuyere will be a 1.5 inch hole drilled out of the bottom into a likewise diameter steel pipe that T sections off for the airflow to come in from the side and the debris to fall straight down. I've seen a lot of folks mention kitty litter instead of clay but is one better than the other or is it just availability? I'm not 100% sure i used the correct terms anand please forgive spelling errors as this was typed on my phone. I look forward to hearing from you! PS. I finally updated my profile to include location! Link to a tub that is close to the one I'm looking at. 16.5 x 16.5 x 7.5 inches and holds 3 gallons
  4. Hi all, this my first axe/hatchet project. It is mild steel with a W2 bit. My forge welding skills are crap (especially in my gas forge) so I TIG welded the bit on after a failed attempt, thus the marks (I'm pretty new to that too). I kind of like it rustic anyway. I normalized once in ash and quenched once in warm water, then let the colour run back up the piece and cooled it again. Seems to work (no immediate chipping yet).
  5. Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Having read though a few of the previous threads in the gasser subsection I couldn't find information which would improve my understanding of the intricacies of constructing a forge. Ignoring which burner I would construct to heat my forge I was hoping I could list out the materials I would use to construct the forge and learn whether or not the items I intend to buy would work or be a waste of time and money? I aim to build my forge inside of an empty gas canister 500mm in diameter and about 700mm in height. For lining the forge I was going to use a two layer system of ceramic fibre blanket underneath castable refractory cement in order to speed up the heating of the forge and save fuel. I've read in other threads that where people had only used castable refractory it lead to increased heating times and fuel inefficiency while fibre only builds introduced the risks of breathing hazards and damage to the wool from the flame exposure. My only concern is that the fibre that I have singled out (being available by the metre as opposed to buying a whole whopping big roll of the stuff!) has a lower melting temp than my refractory. The temperature limits are 1260degC for the fibre and 1600degC for the cement. Would 25mm of cement be enough to protect the fibre from temperatures in excess of its melting point or would I need to go thicker, increasing heating time but not liquefying my fibre? I'll post links to the products I intended to use before happening upon iforgeiron and prepare myself to be schooled Ceramic: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-refractory-castable-grade-1600-refractory-concrete-505-p.asp Fibre: http://shop.vitcas.com/ceramic-fibre-blanket-25mm-vitcas-ceramic-insulation-197-p.asp Rigidiser: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-ceramic-fibre-rigidiser-1035-p.asp Many thanks in advance! Seph
  6. I've been meaning to post this for two months now. I always seem to have time to read 4 to 10 posts made by other people everyday, but can't find the time to make one of my own. The blade is 5160 and is 10 1/2" long with a distal taper. I made this one for a friend and it's the longest blade I've finished. I poured my own brass for the guard.
  7. Zyphiza

    First hammer

    From the album: First complete hammer

    First complete hammer I have made, made it last night, came out pretty nice
  8. From the album: First bracelet

    used some rebar to make a bracelet when I got bored :)
  9. After not having a forge for awhile, I took advantage of a day off and built a new forge and broke it in by forging a knife out of a peice of coil spring. Quenched in veggie oil and tempered for 2 hours at 375f, hardened very nicely. Should hold a nice edge.
  10. Ok, I had no choice but to try. I got a 1x42 belt sander. So of course I HAD to try making my first real knife. It started as an old rusty Nicholson bastard file and a piece of unknown hardwood flooring. I forged it as close to shape as I could, then ground it closer. Normalized it three times. Sanded it to 420 grit. Then heat treated it by heating to nonmagnetic in my gas forge and quenching it in heated Canola Oil (estimated about 160F). File skated on it at this point.Tempered at 450 F in the oven for 2 hours. Then I polished it with block and sandpaper. I used two part epoxy (not the fast drying stuff, I read these forums ) to attach the handle. Overall Length: 10 3/4 " Blade Length: 6 1/8 " Blade width: 1 3/8" (at widest point) Blade Thickness: 1/8" (at thickest point)
  11. Hey guys, I just bought my first actual anvil. Found it on Craiglist. It's a Peter Wright, #168. I got it for $225 and just a 20 minute drive away. The main issue is with the heel. The body of the heel is in tact well but as you can see the top part is cracked. I don't know a lot about anvil so I'm not sure how this happened, if it can or should be fixed etc. There is a bolt running through it to keep it attached. However, the horn and face are in excellent condition. There is no sway to the anvil, the edges are somewhat rough but doesn't bother me. All four feet are in perfect condition. The rebound on it is very nice! I'm very happy with this purchase, what do you guys think?
  12. I needed ideas for small projects to do in my soup can forge while I work out of town. I was inspired by the posts about arrowheads. Here is my first.
  13. LastRonin

    Skinner Wrench Knife

    My first (and I'm sure not last) knife.
  14. Hello! So many beautiful axes in this thread, I feel completely humbled by all of the artistry. I am working towards making my first axe. I still have to make my drifts before I can do it, but hopefully soon after that I'll be starting. I had a couple of simple questions though; at least, hopefully simple questions. One, how many sizes of drift do you think I need? I have a slit punch that I made, but I am curious if I should do a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch drift, or if just a 3/4 and a 1 inch will do the job? Wouldn't be difficult to make the extra one, but I'm just curious what the experts think. I am leaning towards making square drifts for my first ones; seems like it will be easier to carve a square handle than a round one. Two, what type of wood do you prefer for your handles? I have 20-some wooded acres, so I imagine I have access to just about any kind of tree that grows in Southern Indiana, and I would like to source the handle material from something locally here on my property, and carve the handle myself. Even if it does wind up far more "rustic" than intended. :) Three, starting material. For ease of use, I thought that I might just pick up a 4" piece of 1x1 steel at the local warehouse. Rather than trying to forge my first hawk out of scrap that may require more work, (and skill,) I thought I might start with something simple and then move on to making them out of other things. I don't want to over-complicate my first one. I appreciate in advance any responses to this question, and I hope that I am not over-reaching with a project of this size at my current level of experience, (or lack thereof.)
  15. Here are a few pics of the first knife I made, using an old file. I forged it into shape rather than trying to cut it. The handle did not turn out the way I wanted as I cut the thin rod I wrapped it with much too short. The intention was to have a tightly wrapped tang, with a rudimentary snake head or something similar at the end of the rod. Bonus pic: rubixs twist using a mild steel bar
  16. Built a coal forge in my back yard. My first time hitting hot metal. Dug a hole about a shovel deep, put a metal grated shelf piece I found in the shed, ran a metal pipe out the side. Had some curved garden stone laying around. Put it around the hole. Added an air mattress pump I had and voila! The only cost to me was a 20lb bag of lump coal Lowes ($14) And a metal rod ($6) I had part of a railroad rail that I'm using as a makeshift anvil. It seems to work pretty well, granted the construction has some limits, but I figure I can use this to practice swinging, maybe make a few cool things. It's fun so far. Looking forward to doing more with it! Nathan
  17. My wife's birthday is Monday. And due to some unexpected bills that we got hit with recently... she insisted I not buy her anything. Well, today was the first day I have been able to light up my forge in several weeks due to combinations of weather and my bill-paying job. So I made this rose for her. Well, first I made a rough, but functional tenon tool to square up the edge of the tenon I was planning to attach the petals to the stem with and ground an old beat-up pair of pliers into what I am calling my petaling pliers. (Sorry for not taking a pic of them, might do that tomorrow) The pliers are almost like stubby, fat scrolling pliers/tongs... but allow me to grip the edge of the petal better for shaping it (imho). http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/37712-birthday-rose-1/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/37713-birthday-rose-2/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/37714-birthday-rose-3/ The petals are made from discs I cut out of a scrap piece of car fender with a holesaw. The stem started as 3/8" round. I used my dremel tool to cut the discs into three basic petal shapes on each. Then made the tenon on the 3/8 round to fit the 1/4" hole the holesaw left in the center of each of the petal sets. put the five petal blanks on it and peened the tenon to hold them on. Heated it up and shaped the petals, then drew the stem down.
  18. Well guys I got some time in this morning at the forge. Here is the fruit of my labours, my first ever Rams Head cane topper. This little beauty took me about 2 hours to make seeing as it was my first and I was being very cautious so as not to burn the horns off and make it a unicorn. It was also my first time ever twisting any metal it didn't come out so well but Iv learnt a lot about it in just this one session. What do you guys think of my first attempt? Comments welcome.
  19. LastRonin

    Birthday Rose 3

    View from the back end.
  20. LastRonin

    Birthday Rose 2

    My first rose.
  21. LastRonin

    Birthday Rose 1

    Wanted to give my wife a rose for her birthday. My first ever rose.
  22. Hey guys, here are some pics of my first knife made from a section of an old leaf spring from my moms bakkie. It still has to be tempered and heat treated and have a handle put on but Ill do all that next weekend hopefully. The blade is 17.5 cm (6.8 ") long and the whole thing is 32 cm (12.5 ") long. Tell me what you think? The original piece of stock. The rough forged blade. The final shaping and cleaning. This is the first one I have made and Im quite happy with it considering the size and outcome so far. I will see if my forging methods are correct in the tempering stage, bends, buckles, cracks and snapping could all await me. But I am confident in my technique and am sure it will come out perfectly.
  23. So I'm in the process of making my first coal forge. I was lucky enough to find an old broken hopper, and took a couple pieces from it which would allow me to make the design below with very close to minimal effort. The different colors are the different pieces which would be bolted/riveted together, all but the yellow one currently existing exactly as shown. The circular hole will hold a brake drum. 2x4s will be bolted to the purple funny shaped flap things coming down, as the legs. I guess I'd just like to ask what the design looks like from a safety/efficiency/usefulness point of view. The steel is 1/8", is that thick enough? The flat rectangular section of the purple part, the main forge table with the hole in it, is 37cm*55cm, or about 15"x22". Given that thickness and size, will it or anything else need more support than what is shown? I'd also like to ask about the purple rectangular flap thing labelled "A" in the diagram; what would be the best use for it? I could cut it off and use it later, I could fold it completely up so it might act as a wind shield, i could fold it up to be parallel to the ground and so elongate the forging table, either for coal or for tools or for both, or I could cut it off and re-attach it with hinges to allow it to act as a table/wind shield as needed, or Im sure there are myriad other possibilities.. But what do you guys think would be the best use of these materials? Is there a way I could make it smaller but have it still be just as useful? And all the components are drawn to scale. Hopefully I made it clear enough how it should go together.. Also I don't yet have the knowledge nor tools to weld, if that is relevant. I'm quite new to forging, so I understand it probably wouldn't be of too much benefit to me to build what looks like a more professional-style forge instead of, say, bolting legs on a brake drum, but all the pieces just seem made to go together like this:P Sorry this is so long, and thanks:)
  24. Well this is my first attempt at forging a flower of any type and I am quite pleased, my only change would be to shorten the stamen a bit in future. Here you can see a small crack just at the base where the petal meets the stem, this was caused by a wayward blow that caused the normally straight edge of the petal to develop a sharp kink in it that after I returned it back to its straight edge cracked once I started folding the petal. Comments are needed and are welcome.
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