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Showing results for tags 'Clutch'.
I bought a 25 LG (new style) and I'm trying to get it working. It's in fantastic condition and looks like it's hardly been used. It was probably last used in about 1980 ? I put a new 1.5 hp motor with a double pulley and v-belt drive on it, and when I switch it on, it hammers at full speed. I've oiled the blocks and all the oil and grease points detailed on the Little Giant website, and I'm not sure what to try next. Is there an adjustment screw for the clutch ? There is no visible wear on the blocks and there is just enough room to slip a thin business card between the blocks and the wheel (that they press against). I was thinking of reversing the direction the motor turns, maybe the hammer ran the other direction in it's previous life ?
After a lot of work, I have completed my mechanical power hammer. This is how I wanted to construct my power hammer, very adjustable. The most unique feature is the clutch mechanism. It consists of two automotive brake rotors. One is fastened to the crankshaft and the other is driven by the motor and free to rotate on the crankshaft. Between the two brake rotors is a 3/8" thick piece of clutch friction material. The footpetal force is transfered through a clutch linkage to a Chevy small block V-8 throw-out bearing that pushes the rotors together. I credit Ray Clontz [designer of the Tire Hammer] for encouraging me to build a power hammer instead of a treadle hammer. The auto rotor clutch system is inspired by Ray's own personal power hammer. The brake rotor disk clutch works very smoothly. For those interested, I have hastily posted some photogrphs and notes on my website. I am running the machine at a maximum 2.6 impacts per second until I am more comfortable operating it at a faster speed. A power hammer radically improved my blacksmithing experience. I can't guess how many more times it moves hot metal than I can by hand. Fred
I purchased a new style 100lb little giant last week in Spokane and have a question. The hammer I think is in good shape except for one issue. The spider is not on the main shaft completely. The shaft is recessed into the spider about ½”. The key is also sticking out beyond the spider more than ¾”. This machine has been like this for some time. Some type of crude attachment is stuck on the end of the key, in an attempt to drive it in or pull it out. In order to take up the axial play in the main shaft, given the clutch assembly in out of position a large split collar was added to the main shaft just behind the forward main bearing. So the question is how do I go about getting the clutch back on the shaft and where is should be? I think the key is tapered but I’m not sure about that. I talked to Sid at little giant and he was very helpful in telling me what to look for before buying. There was a huge guard covering the whole back end so I didn’t see this and it would not have been a deal breaker anyway. I have a call into Sid to see what he can tell me and to order a DVD set from him on rebuilding.
I just purchased a 25 Ib Little Giant along with Dave Manzer's 2 videos on tuning the Little Giant and Tooling for the LG. The problem I am having, after turning it on for the first time, is that I have to press my pedal all the way to the ground to get the clutch to engage. By the time it engages my pedal is pressed so far that my dies each other, rather than slowly descending. SO, I am not a very good mechanic and I don't have anyone local to ask about this, but I am guessing my clutch is not engaging because all the grabby stuff that should be on it has worn away. Can anyone help me identify this as the problem and tell me how to fix it?