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Found 17 results

  1. Howdy Yall, As much as I have searched, I haven't been lucky in finding an answer to this question. I'm going to be making a brake rotor forge for my backyard and from everything that I have heard, these things are made of CAST IRON. However, after I clean the rust off, the rotor is shiny silver. I DON'T WANT THAT. I like the cast iron, black, seasoned finish and would like my brake drum forge to imitate that. There's no way that seasoning it would get it from shiny silver to skillet-black either, so I'm at a loss at what to do. Any ideas? Thanks
  2. Hello everyone, I am just starting to get into the art of blacksmithing and wanted to build a very popular beginner forge which was an easy cheap way for me to go but after hearing about all the bad stuff on galvanized pipes am afraid to light up my forge now lol. here are some pics of the forge I built. I am in the NC area. Please any advice or tips on how to proceeded would be greatly appreciated. Merry Xmas.
  3. Hey all, So I know this has been asked before, but I am new to the world of forging and am on a limited budget so I built a brake drum forge, with a 1.5 inch flange and pipe welded onto the bottom, with the tee fitting to allow for an ash dump and an air supply (two speed hair dryer). I initially made the mistake of using anthracite coal, so I switched to lump charcoal, because I cant find bituminous. I am able to get the forge hot enough to bring my rail road spike up to a nice glowing red, but after the first heat it's a constant battle to get the spike back up to a good temp as well as getting a uniform even temp on the spike. Not sure what I am doing wrong, because I know it gets hot enough, I melted one of my spikes in half. I have spent almost 50 hrs trying to make a single knife, so I am getting discouraged. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Hey ya'll! Its your friendly neighborhood Texan here! I've started the construction of my coal forge! Got a F250 Brake rotor, some scrap sheet steel, and some rebar. sizes: 30"x22" rebar frame It's all going to be welded together today. I'm not sure what to use for the legs... I'm just going to stack some cendar blocks for the time being. Picture: I'll update as I progress.
  5. My first attempt at making a forge. Looking for improvements critiques or suggestions for a hood/chimney. This site has been a great source of inspiration and motivation.
  6. Hi all, New blacksmith here again. So, I've been working on my brake drum forge now for about..probably two months. Still a newb but I'm learning. The brake drum forge that I built works fine for heating steel but it's burning my coal faster than I think it needs to. What I'm considering, is using some fire cement around the inside and shaping it so that it slopes from the rim to the center where the air blows in. What I'm really wanting to know is if this will help to more efficiently burn my coal and if the fire cement is a viable option for what I'm trying to achieve. I'll attach a picture of my forge also....aaaand it uploaded sideways again for some reason.
  7. Hey guys first post here. I'm in the process of building a brake drum forge. I'm using a brake drum off of a semi that I have notched. The hole in the middle is quite large, nine inches or so, and I need to cover it. I am about to cut the top off of a steel drum that I will use for charcoal. Will the top be thick enough to handle the heat of the forge if I were to cut out a circle to lay in the bottom? Or should I go for a heavier metal plate? It doesn't look like it in the pictures but there is still a 3 inch lip for the bowl.
  8. I'm sure you guys have seen many of these but I'm super stoked to show off mine. Let me know what u guys think.
  9. Hi guys, I have recently gotten into smithing, but it has always been a great interest of mine. I wanted to get y'alls opinion on my newly built brake drum forge. In the pic the forge is on the right and my 1826 Mouse-Hole anvil is on the left. The anvil is solid cast iron with a forge welded steel striking plate. I am also looking at different types of forging hammers and would greatly appreciate your opinions on what weight and style would be good for someone starting out. I know this is a lot of beginner stuff and probably doesnt belong here but I mainly want yalls opinions of my new forge. Also, the other pics are of my first forged cooking irons, They're not the best in the world, but i thought it was pretty decent for my first time putting hammer to anvil. Thanks, Jaybird
  10. Brake Drum Forge I am relatively new to the Black Smithing community and have been looking for ways to build a simple, cheap (economically) Forge. The design I have decided to use is a Solid Fuel Charcoal Forge. I recently acquired a brake drum and am planning to either sit it or weld it into a sheet of steel, around 3/16 thick. That is what I plan to do and I would like to know what you guys think and if you have any suggestions please don't hold back, just don't be rude. Thanks! Jakob I. Here is a picture of the drum and 2 RR spikes I found.
  11. Quarry Dog

    potential forge

    Hooks in the intended usage.
  12. eseemann

    Rebar knife

    This is the first thing I did with my break drum forge, not bad for a first try, least that is what I think. by the way when I say knife, think butter.
  13. I just recently built a brake rotor forge. Can I use coal in it even if I don't have a clinker breaker? would it be a problem if I don't have one? I attached a picture of my fire pot.
  14. Pics attached. I just recently completed a brake rotor based forge. A hairdryer is used as a bellows. For now I am getting by with a small ASO, but I just got some 3/8 mild steel plate that I plan to use as an anvil. Does anybody have any suggestions or comments that might help me fine tune my setup?
  15. I figured I'd go ahead and show my progress with my forge and let people make suggestions or critiques. I am open to any and all opinions... and don't worry, I don't get XXXX hurt easily. Firstly... just because the title says $0.00 doesn't mean I am insistant on not spending any money to build it, just that I haven't had to yet. I do need to keep it as cheap as I can, but if I end up needing to buy something I will. So far I've put my firepot and piping togethether, cut a hole in the 4' x 8' metal table I had sitting unused out in the shed and have gathered the materials I intend to build my anvil 'stand' (a wood block made from nine 4"x4" square posts bolted and strapped together on end.). I still need to come up with a hood and flue. Thinking of using the inner shell of an old gas oven for the sides and back. Would cut a pass-through hole in the back for long stock. Anyway, here are the pictures. (The 'lid' is an old plow disc. It fits over the brake drum perfectly... 1/4" overhang all around.)
  16. Hi all, Finally got the time to hit the junkyard and get a few parts for a forge. Here is the brake drum I am using it is 13" across and about 4-1/2" deep () The back of the brake drum has a large hole about 5" across () The backing is the wheel bearing that I cut down () And here are the pieces as I would be assembling them () My question is this, the hole in the bearing that I can use for the tuyere, is only about 1-1/4" across and I plan on using 2" pipe for the rest of the construction, is this hole too small? Will reducing the pipe from 2" to 1-1/4" create too much force in the forge and blow the coal out of the forge? I do not have a very strong blower, the only thing I could get my hands on (for the moment) was a 2 speed hair dryer that I've stripped the heating element out of. Is there another approach to reducing that 5" hole? I figured since I found the wheel bearing that fit I could cut it down and then weld it in place. But the size of the tuyere has me worried. Any and all information is welcome Thanks in advance, -Jeff
  17. Those of you that I have talked with know that I am whining about being on a TIGHT budget. So I have scrounged and rescued and garage saled, (is that a verb?) and now have my own forge to work with. I will be lighting it up on Friday morning with regular charcoal (yes I know its not ideal but I have a bag and a half already) and very likely again on Saturday while my wife is at her baby shower. The BBQ is rusted out and so was free from a couple of friends of mine who were moving. Wanted a kettle style but hey.... The brake drum was free from the mechanics shop, the disk underneath it was free in some scrap metal I was given... The pipe and cap that are the air flow added up to like 13 bucks if I remember right... The inner tube was free from the local bike shop (had a hole in it ) and the air source is the blower from an Inflatable Christmas lawn ornament Free also for me. A local smith who has been very helpful and accomodating let me weld the pipe at his shop. The vice I bought at a garage sale for 5$ along with a Railroad spike hammer also for 5$ in another post. The anvil was the most expensive part, its a Fisher 58 lb.er that I got for about a buck a lb. So we will see what it can do tomorrow. I am hoping to make a horseshoe heart for my wife to justify my time involved in this... Thanks for your time...