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Found 340 results

  1. Hi All, I've just started out, and the supply of fuel that came with my forge is very close to running out.... Any Smiths in South Central/South East England that have a good supplier?? I can't seem to find anything!!! Sorry if this has been asked before!! James.
  2. I built a gas forge a few years back out of a pearlite insulator, but I never put a refractory coating so it began melting pretty quickly, I ditched it and made two solid fuel forges some time later but recently as it got colder I decided to work on my propane forge so I could work in my dads shop. The forge is a cylindrical stainless steel can with a pearlite insulator (I forget the exact recipe but I think it was something along the lines of a pearlite aluminum oxide mix) When I came back to the forge I had more knowledge so I acquired two pounds of satanite and installed fire bricks in the base and sides for better structural support and insulation. The Satanite bonded to the firebricks very well, but when I thought everything was going well on the second coat almost half of the satanite delaminated from the pearlite ceiling. In the end I lost pretty much all of my satanite and ended mixing the leftover slurry with firebrick and pearlite "mud" as a temporary patch for the exposed section of the ceiling. I don't really have any confidence that the temporary patch will hold the heat terribly well but I cant see many alternatives with my limited supplies. What refractory options do I have, and what materials would be best to fix my problem? (I don't have much cash but I could spend a bit if I need new materials) (Note: I'm having trouble uploading a photo to the topic, I tried to describe what I could but if anyone knows what the problem is I could post a few pictures.)
  3. Hello all, This is both my first attempt at posting as well as forging. Please let me know if this is not the appropriate place to post this! My problem is heating the steel I have. My set up is a propane tank forge with the front cut off and a back vent. The open space inside may have a diameter of 6". The single burner is simply propane running to a perpendicular pipe with a small hole drilled. The flame I am getting may be 85-90% blue with the rest being yellow. I blocked off both the front and back entrances as best I could and was running it at about 15-20psi. The steel never received enough heat to even get to the dimmest glow after about 30 minutes of trying. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance! Cheers
  4. I recently picked up a new forge from a local knife maker to replace my old one. It's a peice of 10" pipe 24" long mounted vertically on 1" plate. He was using it as a salt pot to heat treat in before he built a new one and gave me this along with a Bag of 1" koa-wool insulation to reline it with. For a burner he was using a 2x1 swedge with tubing going through with a hole drilled in the tube. I was wondering whether that burner would have the right atmosphere for regular forging? He had no way to adjust it at all that I could see. Should I make a burner like that or would I be better off using my 3/4 frosty t burner? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi all iv built a vanturi burner and it has a problem I think. it lights fine and runs fine (no sputtering) but when I open the air vent(Just a thumb screw to open and close the top)I can't open it any more then 3mm or it will blow out when I lowered the pressure to 2-3psi I could open it slightly more but then same results. Can anyone help me? I can't find anyone with this problem maybe it isn't a problem just a very small window of adjustability thanks for the help in advance. (Iv added a drawing of what all the dimensions are.) Sorry forgot to add my gas orifice was 0.6mm then I swapped it for 0.8mm that worked better. do I just need to increase that again to decrease the pressure difference and slow the air intake or am i over thinking it.
  6. So, I have been using an Atlas mini forge and I am looking into upgrading to something bigger the only thing is I'm a little worried about breathing ceramic fibers from the lining of most of the forges I have been looking at. The forge I am thinking of getting says that the ceramic lining is factory rigidized vacuum formed ceramic liner. I don't really know what this means. By rigidized does it mean that the lining has been coated and I don't need to worry about breathing ceramic fibers during normal use of the forge? If it helps the forge I am looking at is the Majestic Forge 3 burner knifemaker deluxe. Here is a link to the forge https://www.majesticforge.com/product/3-burner-knifemaker-deluxe/
  7. My friend recently passed away and his wife is wanting to sell some things. Any idea what to ask for this forge?
  8. Hello, new member from near Wichita, Ks. I have only been playing with smithing for a few months but find it very rewarding and therapudic. Grandfather was a blacksmith but he passes when I was only 7 so I have always had an interest in the craft but been too busy with life until now. I admit the show forged in fire did respark my interest and bring me to where I am now. I built a modified version of the freon bottle mini forge, purchased a Oregon blade maker 2x72 belt grinder, and made a striking anvil from 2 - 60# blocks of steel. I have made 5 knives learning something with every one. Not looking to start a business just enjoying experimenting and learning something about how my forefathers made their tools.
  9. While carving a burner port in an insulating fire brick last night without any power tools, I got a particle embedded in my eye. No I was not wearing safety glasses and just using a hand file. I don't know how it happened exactly. The particle was on my iris and would not flush out no matter how much water I splashed or ran across my eyeball. Fortunately, several hours later it dislodged naturally. Just a word of warning for those that don't think they need safety glasses when using hand tools.
  10. Well here is my first post... I'm about to start the journey of iron working and I feel like my head might be to high up in the sky too think about the negative impacts of this new hobby. I would like some advice that will keep me rooted in the real world. But let me tell you where I am now: I helped a friend work some steel a few years ago and I could never shake off the longing to do it again. I've moved twice since then and will likely be off to the other side of the world before to long. I've read tons of books and watched hours of videos. I picked up a railroad track anvil for $20 and plan on making a trashcan forge (gas) this weekend. I plan on making small things first (arrow heads, small knives, etc.) to start and use that experience to learn the trade. I would like to keep my smithy as mobile as possible as moving is still in the cards for at least the next 6 years. Do any of y'all have advice for a novice metal worker? First projects? Ways to develop basic skills? Is this railroad track going to be enough? Should I even bother? Thanks for the help. Big Jim
  11. I made this forge out of an old cast iron sink, metal gardening stakes, fire bricks, pipes and a repurposed vacuum. You don't see in the picture but the back of the sink is to be used as a top for it to help keep in the heat. And I did elivate the higher over the air vent. I use coal as fuel. If anyone has any tweaks or tips on how to improve it I would be grateful. Thanks
  12. Ok so I built a shop recently for blacksmithing. I needed to make a chimney set up so I took an old water pressure tank and used it as the hood. I have 6" chimney single wall going above the roof. The hood opening is 13" tall and about 14" wide. The hood is also resting on the forge. Anyway when I tried using it smoke did go up the chimney but some would puff out towards the top of the hood. The smoke buildup is not good and hard on my lungs. So my question is what am I doing wrong here? I did a little reading on threads and other websites about the chimney needing to be at least 10" or the hood needs to be lower. I can't make the hood lower without cutting more of the tank off because it is resting on the forge. Or should I scrap the hood and buy a professionally made one with 10" chimney?
  13. My mechanic gave this to me and i dont exactly know how it works. It seems like there is an ash dump and the other arm is some sort of adjustable jet. Any ideas? I am not a coal forge kind of guy yet so this could b3 used with anything and i would not know it.
  14. Everybody starts somewhere, and after viewing countless videos showing different types of forges I finally decided to bite the bullet and build something simple. What I have so far: A wheel, a 30 pound chunk of rail, and countless different tools, scrap steel, etc. I can weld and grind but not well, I expect to gain some skill during the project, but for the start it'll be as simple as possible. I plan on burning charcoal, I'm working on a retort but for now I might either buy charcoal, or use wood, wood will require a good hood that burns the smoke off as well as the dodgy rocket stove I built a few weeks ago. Critique and suggestions welcome.
  15. So I'm in the market to buy my first forge or make it from scratch. I own very few tools in general and I'm not the best handyman in the world either. I was originally going to buy a forge around 300-500 bucks. Everyone on the Reddit forum was saying to basically build my own and save some money. I'm looking to do pretty much a bit of everything eventually. I was thinking of going Propane because I thought it would be cheaper. It'll also be cleaner which is nice seeing as how I'll be in the driveway most of the time haha. Basically, I didn't know a good propane forge or burner to buy. Is there any good brands of burners and forges out there I should look at? I know of the following places that I was looking at. Centuar Forge Alec Steele has some burners for sale Hybridburner Devil Forge
  16. So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice on insulation would be great. Also, I want a forge that can do some good welding. I want to try some Damascus in a few months.
  17. I am new to blacksmithing, and I just started to make my second forge. This one will be a significant upgrade from my last one; it was cheap and started to break down after a few uses. I am in the process of claying it, but I have no idea how deep to make my firepot. It is a bottom blast forge, has a 2 inch pipe for air supply, and uses charcoal as its fuel source. Any help will be appreciated.
  18. Hey all, So I know this has been asked before, but I am new to the world of forging and am on a limited budget so I built a brake drum forge, with a 1.5 inch flange and pipe welded onto the bottom, with the tee fitting to allow for an ash dump and an air supply (two speed hair dryer). I initially made the mistake of using anthracite coal, so I switched to lump charcoal, because I cant find bituminous. I am able to get the forge hot enough to bring my rail road spike up to a nice glowing red, but after the first heat it's a constant battle to get the spike back up to a good temp as well as getting a uniform even temp on the spike. Not sure what I am doing wrong, because I know it gets hot enough, I melted one of my spikes in half. I have spent almost 50 hrs trying to make a single knife, so I am getting discouraged. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  19. So I basically designed this off of a JABOD forge but used a high heat fireclay as the base foot the mix. It ended up being mostly a mix of 2:1:1 fireclay to sand to perlite. I used Portland cement and more sand for the layer past the 'fire pot' because I needed more volume. Also reinforced the edges or crumbling bits with store bought Hercules heavy body sodium silicate which works like a charm for those curious. I used lump charcoal and it got decently hot but threw Sparks like a xxxx. Currently working on an insulating and spark trapping dome. Link to pics on drive because chrome doesn't like me today: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B69b0Z0wuf7xSkZfMGNWSENYZ3M
  20. I'm new here, but wanted to share the anvil I made with you folks.
  21. Hey there I need some help with hooking up the burners to my forge. Im new to smithing and this is my first attempt at a forge. My forge has 3 trex burners and my goal is to be able to use them independantly or all together. I have researched how the propane distribution block should look and came up with this. Pics attached. My issue is to go from the distrobution block to the burners i need to use flexible copper tubing and to connect it im using compression fittings, the issue is the compression fittings keep leaking ive tried a hundred times and i just cant get them not to leak propane a bit. Is there a special way to do this? Any help would be great. Thanks
  22. Hi Everyone, I have access to a thermal spray shop with air plasma and HVOF guns. We also have several Thermal Barrier Coatings, refractory metals, etc. that can be applied. Would it make sense to apply a TBC to the parts of the forge that come in direct contact with fire? I think it could extend the life of the components, but I'm not sure if there would be contamination or out-gassing issues. Does anyone have any experience with this? All feedback welcome. Best Regards, Jason
  23. Forgehermet

    T burner

    I have recently follow frosty's T burner plans and have one problem,my burner will be running good with dark and light blue flames it will suddenly go out and I would have to re light it. any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  24. I decided to try designing a fire pot for my eventual coal/coke forge and I'm not sure if my clinker breaker design will cut the mustard. Does anyone have any input on if this design will work or experiences with a similar design? Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Best Regards, Jason