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Found 346 results

  1. Hello, i wanna start by saying I’m brand new to this site so sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I’m just looking for some general information. I have a propane and fire brick forge currently but a few of my bricks have cracked and crumbled. I live in SW Florida and it’s literally impossible to find fire brick. I’ve searched high and low and nothing. I’ve decided to cast my own. The best recipe I can find is consisting of Portland cement I/II, hydrated lime, crushed silica and perlite. Im just wondering if anyone has tried the recipe and if so any tips on it. Thank you!
  2. I am just writing to remind anyone and everyone who does not already know, that Zinc plated or Galvanized steels should never be used in blacksmithing. The Brake rotor forge I had recently build used a galvanized pipe flange. I knew about the perils of heating zinc long before building my forge, but I convinced myself that the pipe fitting wouldn't get hot enough to vaporize (1665 F). I was obviously quite wrong. This past weekend I was out using the forge and as soon as I came back in the house my throat felt awful and raspy. The next day I had a few flu like symptoms that seemed similar to the Infamous "Metal fume Fever". Thank God, by Sunday morning I was feeling fine and my illness had past. I have a good reason to believe that my brief ailment was caused by zinc fumes and was not just coincidental. The Bottom Line is beware of Zinc coated steel when blacksmithing and never use them in forge construction unless you are 100% sure that they will not get too hot!
  3. Hey All, Installing an Anyang Hammer, (Chinese manufacture) C41-150kg hammer. Just wondering if anyone else has had any experience installing such a large hammer. best regards, Chris
  4. So I decided to go with this burner design: Link removed due to language. Its simple, no welding required and it works. I plan on using LPG to power my forge. Where I'm from, the tanks (20lb) only seem to accept 35mm clip on regulators (RUBIGAS). Hence, I needed to find a clip on adapter to match the 3/8" fitting for the regulator he used. I have a 100 USD budget and so far I'm pretty much maxed out. I don't have room to buy the ONLY adapter that matches the requirements (about 30 Euro....ridiculous) plus the extra fitting to match the 3/8 inch flare (the adapter doesn't provide a direct conversion). Does anyone have any suggestions to modify the design and reduce the cost? Or a better solution for hooking up his regulator to the tanks we use? If you provide a different burner design again, please note the following constraints: - 100 US budget (for EVERYTHING, down to the regulator) - Can only order through Amazon (none of the parts listed can be sourced locally or is ridiculously expensive) - Must fit the 35 mm clip on type tanks....must. - Minimal assembly required for the burner. Meaning, no welding and minimal drilling involved (I have to outsource these services which means more time and more money spent).
  5. Bottom line up front: What can you tell me about this anvil? I was recently given an anvil (there IS a God), so I thought I would try to find some info on it online, but I've pretty much struck out so far. It appears to be marked "Village Forge." When I googled that, I did not seem to find anything about anvils, so I figured I'd come here. Other markings are "125 1940 55" I assume that means 125 lbs, made in 1940, 55 kgs (bathroom scale says 128 lbs). It appears the strike face is a separate piece of steel welded on. Judging by the scars on the horn, it appears to have been used a bit, and the minimal scaring on the strike face seems to indicate (to me at least) that it is substantially harder than the horn. Can anyone help me confirm this is not an ASO? Also, what materials/manufacturing process was likely involved in its construction? Finally, where does Village Forge fall on the continuum of quality?
  6. I am a machinist by trade (although I no longer do that for a living) and I have an interest in adding light duty blacksmithing capabilities to my small shop. Lately I do art work involving lots of CAD design, general machining, CNC plasma cutting, and other general metal fabrication. I have various welding capabilities (MIG, TIG) and oxy/acetylene rig. I just purchased a Peddinghaus 165 lb anvil and leg vise. And now I need a forge! My preference is to buy, not build. I want something self-contained, fairly portable, and safe and easy to operate. My shop is currently in a garage under a house. Could I operate a small propane forge indoors, or should I pull it out into the concrete driveway? Should I pull the anvil out there too? I'm still not entirely sure how practical my plan is. I've successfully done lots of welding and machining in my shop, but not hot work with forge and anvil! These are some forges I have looked at: 3 BURNER MULTI-PURPOSE / FARRIER DELUXE from http://www.majesticforge.com $500 Model 50000 Blacksmith forge from http://www.forgemaster.com/ $775 2-burner MetalSmith Forge from http://www.diamondbackironworks.com/2_burner_metalsmith.html $625 I can justify spending the money on any of these. Any recommendations for a newbie blacksmith who wants to do sculpture / artwork are most welcome. I suspect the heaviest work I might want to do is drawing a 1" diameter bar of mild steel out to a point. Thank you!
  7. Hi All, I've just started out, and the supply of fuel that came with my forge is very close to running out.... Any Smiths in South Central/South East England that have a good supplier?? I can't seem to find anything!!! Sorry if this has been asked before!! James.
  8. I built a gas forge a few years back out of a pearlite insulator, but I never put a refractory coating so it began melting pretty quickly, I ditched it and made two solid fuel forges some time later but recently as it got colder I decided to work on my propane forge so I could work in my dads shop. The forge is a cylindrical stainless steel can with a pearlite insulator (I forget the exact recipe but I think it was something along the lines of a pearlite aluminum oxide mix) When I came back to the forge I had more knowledge so I acquired two pounds of satanite and installed fire bricks in the base and sides for better structural support and insulation. The Satanite bonded to the firebricks very well, but when I thought everything was going well on the second coat almost half of the satanite delaminated from the pearlite ceiling. In the end I lost pretty much all of my satanite and ended mixing the leftover slurry with firebrick and pearlite "mud" as a temporary patch for the exposed section of the ceiling. I don't really have any confidence that the temporary patch will hold the heat terribly well but I cant see many alternatives with my limited supplies. What refractory options do I have, and what materials would be best to fix my problem? (I don't have much cash but I could spend a bit if I need new materials) (Note: I'm having trouble uploading a photo to the topic, I tried to describe what I could but if anyone knows what the problem is I could post a few pictures.)
  9. Hello all, This is both my first attempt at posting as well as forging. Please let me know if this is not the appropriate place to post this! My problem is heating the steel I have. My set up is a propane tank forge with the front cut off and a back vent. The open space inside may have a diameter of 6". The single burner is simply propane running to a perpendicular pipe with a small hole drilled. The flame I am getting may be 85-90% blue with the rest being yellow. I blocked off both the front and back entrances as best I could and was running it at about 15-20psi. The steel never received enough heat to even get to the dimmest glow after about 30 minutes of trying. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance! Cheers
  10. I recently picked up a new forge from a local knife maker to replace my old one. It's a peice of 10" pipe 24" long mounted vertically on 1" plate. He was using it as a salt pot to heat treat in before he built a new one and gave me this along with a Bag of 1" koa-wool insulation to reline it with. For a burner he was using a 2x1 swedge with tubing going through with a hole drilled in the tube. I was wondering whether that burner would have the right atmosphere for regular forging? He had no way to adjust it at all that I could see. Should I make a burner like that or would I be better off using my 3/4 frosty t burner? Thanks in advance.
  11. Hi all iv built a vanturi burner and it has a problem I think. it lights fine and runs fine (no sputtering) but when I open the air vent(Just a thumb screw to open and close the top)I can't open it any more then 3mm or it will blow out when I lowered the pressure to 2-3psi I could open it slightly more but then same results. Can anyone help me? I can't find anyone with this problem maybe it isn't a problem just a very small window of adjustability thanks for the help in advance. (Iv added a drawing of what all the dimensions are.) Sorry forgot to add my gas orifice was 0.6mm then I swapped it for 0.8mm that worked better. do I just need to increase that again to decrease the pressure difference and slow the air intake or am i over thinking it.
  12. So, I have been using an Atlas mini forge and I am looking into upgrading to something bigger the only thing is I'm a little worried about breathing ceramic fibers from the lining of most of the forges I have been looking at. The forge I am thinking of getting says that the ceramic lining is factory rigidized vacuum formed ceramic liner. I don't really know what this means. By rigidized does it mean that the lining has been coated and I don't need to worry about breathing ceramic fibers during normal use of the forge? If it helps the forge I am looking at is the Majestic Forge 3 burner knifemaker deluxe. Here is a link to the forge https://www.majesticforge.com/product/3-burner-knifemaker-deluxe/
  13. My friend recently passed away and his wife is wanting to sell some things. Any idea what to ask for this forge?
  14. Hello, new member from near Wichita, Ks. I have only been playing with smithing for a few months but find it very rewarding and therapudic. Grandfather was a blacksmith but he passes when I was only 7 so I have always had an interest in the craft but been too busy with life until now. I admit the show forged in fire did respark my interest and bring me to where I am now. I built a modified version of the freon bottle mini forge, purchased a Oregon blade maker 2x72 belt grinder, and made a striking anvil from 2 - 60# blocks of steel. I have made 5 knives learning something with every one. Not looking to start a business just enjoying experimenting and learning something about how my forefathers made their tools.
  15. While carving a burner port in an insulating fire brick last night without any power tools, I got a particle embedded in my eye. No I was not wearing safety glasses and just using a hand file. I don't know how it happened exactly. The particle was on my iris and would not flush out no matter how much water I splashed or ran across my eyeball. Fortunately, several hours later it dislodged naturally. Just a word of warning for those that don't think they need safety glasses when using hand tools.
  16. Well here is my first post... I'm about to start the journey of iron working and I feel like my head might be to high up in the sky too think about the negative impacts of this new hobby. I would like some advice that will keep me rooted in the real world. But let me tell you where I am now: I helped a friend work some steel a few years ago and I could never shake off the longing to do it again. I've moved twice since then and will likely be off to the other side of the world before to long. I've read tons of books and watched hours of videos. I picked up a railroad track anvil for $20 and plan on making a trashcan forge (gas) this weekend. I plan on making small things first (arrow heads, small knives, etc.) to start and use that experience to learn the trade. I would like to keep my smithy as mobile as possible as moving is still in the cards for at least the next 6 years. Do any of y'all have advice for a novice metal worker? First projects? Ways to develop basic skills? Is this railroad track going to be enough? Should I even bother? Thanks for the help. Big Jim
  17. I made this forge out of an old cast iron sink, metal gardening stakes, fire bricks, pipes and a repurposed vacuum. You don't see in the picture but the back of the sink is to be used as a top for it to help keep in the heat. And I did elivate the higher over the air vent. I use coal as fuel. If anyone has any tweaks or tips on how to improve it I would be grateful. Thanks
  18. Ok so I built a shop recently for blacksmithing. I needed to make a chimney set up so I took an old water pressure tank and used it as the hood. I have 6" chimney single wall going above the roof. The hood opening is 13" tall and about 14" wide. The hood is also resting on the forge. Anyway when I tried using it smoke did go up the chimney but some would puff out towards the top of the hood. The smoke buildup is not good and hard on my lungs. So my question is what am I doing wrong here? I did a little reading on threads and other websites about the chimney needing to be at least 10" or the hood needs to be lower. I can't make the hood lower without cutting more of the tank off because it is resting on the forge. Or should I scrap the hood and buy a professionally made one with 10" chimney?
  19. My mechanic gave this to me and i dont exactly know how it works. It seems like there is an ash dump and the other arm is some sort of adjustable jet. Any ideas? I am not a coal forge kind of guy yet so this could b3 used with anything and i would not know it.
  20. Everybody starts somewhere, and after viewing countless videos showing different types of forges I finally decided to bite the bullet and build something simple. What I have so far: A wheel, a 30 pound chunk of rail, and countless different tools, scrap steel, etc. I can weld and grind but not well, I expect to gain some skill during the project, but for the start it'll be as simple as possible. I plan on burning charcoal, I'm working on a retort but for now I might either buy charcoal, or use wood, wood will require a good hood that burns the smoke off as well as the dodgy rocket stove I built a few weeks ago. Critique and suggestions welcome.
  21. So I'm in the market to buy my first forge or make it from scratch. I own very few tools in general and I'm not the best handyman in the world either. I was originally going to buy a forge around 300-500 bucks. Everyone on the Reddit forum was saying to basically build my own and save some money. I'm looking to do pretty much a bit of everything eventually. I was thinking of going Propane because I thought it would be cheaper. It'll also be cleaner which is nice seeing as how I'll be in the driveway most of the time haha. Basically, I didn't know a good propane forge or burner to buy. Is there any good brands of burners and forges out there I should look at? I know of the following places that I was looking at. Centuar Forge Alec Steele has some burners for sale Hybridburner Devil Forge
  22. So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice on insulation would be great. Also, I want a forge that can do some good welding. I want to try some Damascus in a few months.
  23. I am new to blacksmithing, and I just started to make my second forge. This one will be a significant upgrade from my last one; it was cheap and started to break down after a few uses. I am in the process of claying it, but I have no idea how deep to make my firepot. It is a bottom blast forge, has a 2 inch pipe for air supply, and uses charcoal as its fuel source. Any help will be appreciated.
  24. Hey all, So I know this has been asked before, but I am new to the world of forging and am on a limited budget so I built a brake drum forge, with a 1.5 inch flange and pipe welded onto the bottom, with the tee fitting to allow for an ash dump and an air supply (two speed hair dryer). I initially made the mistake of using anthracite coal, so I switched to lump charcoal, because I cant find bituminous. I am able to get the forge hot enough to bring my rail road spike up to a nice glowing red, but after the first heat it's a constant battle to get the spike back up to a good temp as well as getting a uniform even temp on the spike. Not sure what I am doing wrong, because I know it gets hot enough, I melted one of my spikes in half. I have spent almost 50 hrs trying to make a single knife, so I am getting discouraged. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  25. So I basically designed this off of a JABOD forge but used a high heat fireclay as the base foot the mix. It ended up being mostly a mix of 2:1:1 fireclay to sand to perlite. I used Portland cement and more sand for the layer past the 'fire pot' because I needed more volume. Also reinforced the edges or crumbling bits with store bought Hercules heavy body sodium silicate which works like a charm for those curious. I used lump charcoal and it got decently hot but threw Sparks like a xxxx. Currently working on an insulating and spark trapping dome. Link to pics on drive because chrome doesn't like me today: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B69b0Z0wuf7xSkZfMGNWSENYZ3M
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