Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'blower'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 67 results

  1. I'm stuck on a particular part on the disassembly of a Champion 400. Degreasing has been done. [The paint is the byproduct of the foolish assumption that this particular part of the process was going to be easy.] I'm having a crazy time getting the bushing out. Not sure how else to describe them except via the attached picture. Others have suggested making special tooling or a combination of needle nose pliers and a wrench. My next step is a bit of heat, but before I go there, I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything unusual or weren't any 'tricks' to getting these out. Thanks, Dave
  2. Hi guys, First post here but I've been getting lots of inspiration from you all recently! I'm currently in the process of building my coal forge and hope to have it completed tonight. I'll post a build report later, I think you'll like it... Anyway, I have a quick question for you - I am looking to attach my blower to the inlet pipe on my tuyere. It has a square outlet around 3 1/2 ". My fabricated inlet pipe is 3" square. I have also fabricated an air gate with a 3" square opening which will be operated from the side, forming a more or less rectangular opening depending on the position. My question is - should I mount the blower directly to the air gate, which will then be welded onto the tuyere inlet pipe or should I fab up a reducing cone with the air gate further down in line from the blower? Although it would be easier to mount the blower directly, my concern is that the air gate positioned directly at the blower outlet would interfere with the air flow and lead to inefficiency in the air flow. I'm probably over thinking it I know, but I have a choice to make and plenty of 3mm sheet for fabrication, so I'd rather get it right now than have to correct later... Any advice would be greatly appreciated Vince P.S. apologies for the craps pictures, the camera on my phone make whacky colours...
  3. I tried to post this in thread, but keep getting forbidden. sigh. As an update on the blower issue, I have done some more research, talked with one of the engineers that I work with that has done air balancing on ovens, and have come up with some helpful information. I contacted Kayne and sons about the blowers they have, which by the way will do the job in SPADES. The one piece of nomenclature that seems out of place is the way these blowers are rated with regard to static pressure. Static pressure should be rated in inches of water column. So the rating of the blowers in ounces of static pressure is deceptive. They did reply to my inquiry and stated that the manufacturer rated them that way. After 78sharpshooter posted his comment about having to choke his blower down so far, got me thinking about the nomenclature issue with the rating. I think the sp listed can be converted directly to PSI, and that in turn can be converted to water column. going on that premise, the large 164 CFM blower that 78ss has would have 2.5 lbs. PSI of output, that would translate to about 70 inches of water column pressure, which would explain why he has to choke it down so much, if the requirement of a ribbon burner is a minimum of 5 and 7.5 works better, then the wide open 70 that is available will totally exceed the requirement. On a side note, because of the way centrifugal blowers are choked with the inlet being partially ( or mostly ) covered, the motor doesn't have to work as hard, because the impeller is spinning in a negative environment. The reason this works is because the motor doesn't rely on the impeller for air circulation, it has it's own fan for that. As you can see, this is why speed controls don't work well with this type of blower, the motor can't get proper cooling at the lower speeds / higher current that use of a speed control will cause. If anyone has more knowledge about this than I do, please weigh in. These are conclusions I have reached through my research and from the real world experience with this set-up that 78ss presented in his post. Thanks! Storm
  4. I gathered a few items while up at the cottage. First was the vice then i picked up this early 1900's Royal Western Chief sitting in the corner of an old shop. I happen to also find the old fire pot there too in another room. I was super lucky because the shop was closed and the lady saw us pull in and opened the doors for us on her holiday. It spins really nice and blows really strong for being that old. I found the flyer for it online. The firepot looks like the one on the flyer too. A few weeks before i got the one above i found this Canada Blower & Forge Co. from Kitchener Ont. I thought about selling it but then decided to hold onto it and set it up on my portable forge. Chris
  5. Hi all, I am in the process of making a hand crank blower for my wood/charcoal forge which is approximately 600mm diameter and 300mm high. i have worked out a gear train setup that would give a ratio of about 1:20 using old bike parts. I have seen 2 blower wheels on Ebay, a 88mm for $8 or a 180mm for $30. As i am trying to do this as cheaply as possible, the 88mm seems pretty good for price. Roughly how well would the smaller wheel work if i could get it to 1000-2000 rpm? Ebay link removed
  6. Hi All, I'm thinking about starting here ---- I've looked through the forums and am highly inundated with information. (which I presume is a good thing) For a beginner, if I wanted to purchase anvils and blacksmithing tools --- are there any particular brands that stand out? I'm looking for basics now but power tools in the next few years. Any suggestions help, thanks!
  7. I have my grandfathers old blacksmith shop tools that I need to do something with. The building is about to fall down and needs to be demolished. It has these old belt driven tools in it and I don't want to scrap them. I would like to see them restored and used again if possible. I would like any help identifying them and what I could do with them. Are they worth anything? Some of these look hand made. Don't know.
  8. They say a picture tells a thousand words, but what about a video? Anyway, I recently fixed up a Alcosa Forge Blower. I took videos of the process on my phone, partly so I remembered what went where and also because I like doing abit of video editing now and then. So here's 3 short videos highlighting the steps I took to restore the blower. The videos wont be everyone's cup of tea, but nobody is forcing you to watch them. Tom Thanks
  9. I need some help, I would like to purchase a forge blower and all I find are overpriced antiques. I was thinking I could build a Japanese bellow box, but my preference is a hand crank forge blower that is in a $55 to no more than $100. at this rate I am desperate.
  10. Wondering if anybody could help me with some info on this buffalo Ny forge I recently picked. I purchased this item with my devotion to anything that has my home town name on it plus it's super cool. Any info would be great age, purpose, etc. I attached a few photos I can say it seems to work perfect. Thank you all for your time. -mike.
  11. After looking into different options for my forge blower (hairdryer, electric duct fans, vacuum cleaners, car heater blowers) I decided to try building my own. After a lot of research on this site and others I concluded that I want a handcranked blower. I didn't have a build plan other than that the only case suitable for a blower was 200l barrel. Other than that I had to use whatever scrap I had lying around. The case is a 230mm cut from the top end of the barrel. The lid sealing the case is a piece of 1,5mm sheet I already had. The axle for the fan is a length of 30mm hydraulic tube and the fan blades are cuts from the barrel sides. The back plate supporting the fan blades is a piece of 4mm plate I also had lying around. The stand and the frame is mostly pieces of steel frame from scrapped sofa and various other bits of scrap. I couldn't find gears large or small enough to get the gearing I needed with just 1 set of gears so I butchered and old excercise cycle for the secondary gear set and the primary is from an broken bicycle. I didn't have any suitable bearings for the fan axle so those I had to buy. Sorry about the lack of pictures from the fabrication. At the time I didn't think this would ever amount to anything but a failure so I found no need to document it. It took me about 12 hours spanned over two weekends to make this. I didn't aim for anything more than a proof of concept so I can see if it's even a functional design. Tools used. 125mm angle grinder, power drill and 150A mig. Now I just need to hook this contraption into my forge and HOPE it pumps enough air. This is by far the ugliest thing I've ever built. Front side Back side Barrelpiece fan.
  12. Hi, I was recently lucky enough to purchase a Champion 400 blower and Whirlwind firepot at auction. Both are in great shape, having just the usual rust, dirt, grease, etc. I do however need to make two adjustments to the blower. I've researched everything on the 400 on this site and others but can't seem to figure out the answer. Adjustment 1: I assume since the brass gear is concave on the working part that it should set directly above the worm gear. Mine is off toward the inside so that only the outside of the brass gear is touching. When looking down from the top, I can see a lot of the worm from one side and nothing from the other. I removed the set screw and tried to nudge the gears over but they won't move. There are a lot of warnings about forcing so I decided best to ask. So how do I move this gear over? Adjustment 2: The main shaft the fan is attached to has a lot of play. Everything looks to be fine so I figured I could place a 3/4" socket on the back and 1" socket on the front and tighten them together to snug everything up. They won't budge. And just as above, there are warnings about putting too much force on the shaft, so thought better to ask. So how do I tighten up the bearings? As always, thanks for the help and for IFOREGEIRON! Kent.
  13. I have a Champion 400 blower that is in need of an overhaul and I need a little advice on part of the tear down. I've got everything disassembled except for the bronze worm gear. I can't seem to figure out exactly how it comes out of the housing. I've removed the square head screw holding the gear to the shaft, but my problem is that I can't see how to pull the shaft. It looks like there are two plugs on either side of the housing (under the bearing caps) that may come out with a spanner wrench of some sort (threaded in?), or maybe I need to jack one side out using the tapped holes. For anyone who is familiar with this blower, do you have any advice on how to get the shaft out of the housing? I would rather go into this knowing how it is put together so I don't do any damage. (Sorry, no pictures available, it was too late when I finished stripping the thing down.) John
  14. Handcranked forge blower made from parts of 200l barrel, frame of an old sofa, excercise cycle, bicycle, pieces of 1,5mm and 4mm steel plate, 30mm hydraulic tube and two 3,5€ chinese bearings mounted in cuts from 60mm pipe.
  15. Made a fitting for 125mm flexible al tube to the business end of the blower. Now it's hooked up to the forge.
  16. The fan blades are cut from the barrel sides.
  17. Back side. The frame is made from random bits of scrap in a hurry and it shows.
  18. Front side. By far the ugliest thing I've ever built.
  19. YES ! You read it Correctly I am Tinkering with a Mini Jet Turbine Blower style Propane / Gases Burner for a Forge . It is Not a new concept However just a Much Much smaller design with a few Electronic solenoids to control the flow of Fuel and Oxygen for Maximum Volume yet low pressure with high Heat out put. I have almost got the drawings done and a prototype done for testing . What say ye as to its abilities and feasibility. Instead of 90 Min/seconds of heat up time I am hoping for instant thermal heat such as a "Thermal Rocket Engine" is Fired . Ret, Sgt. Robert D Yates 13 & On Forge
  20. Hello! I'm a working with an elderly neighbor who has an old Champion Blower and Forge Co. No. 50 Blower attached to his coal forge. We need to purchase a new speed control, but we are unsure of how many AMPs the blower motor uses. The only information on the outside of the motor is "NO. 8220" and "110 Volts." Does anyone know how many AMPs this motor uses? Anyone know how we can find out? I'm sorry if my terminology is incorrect. I'm pretty young and very new to smithing and electrical work. Thank you your help! Best, J. Schlesinger Illinois
  21. While picking up some coal this weekend, I also happened upon a Champion blower. From what I can tell it is the 140 / Eureka model. The issue with it is that the output shaft on the fan has so much play that the fan scrapes and rattles on every rotation. My question is what kind of bearing does this shaft run on and where might I find a suitable replacement?
  22. I've been having issues with my hand crank forge. The strap keeps breaking and wasting my time fixing. i started looking for an alternative by using electric power. I turned my shop vac into a blower. I filmed a video of the build and you can check it out here. I just need to pipe it to the forge now which should be easy.
  23. Hi everyone. Made a forge this week, it is for a hand-crank 'Rapid' blower that I was given 17 years ago; finally got the bits and pieces together! See if you can recognise the forge pan. The other one is for a mate who helped and just to prove it blows enough air. Just have to line forge and paint. Also an extra foot under the blower, for stability, they are heavy. cheers, AndrewOC
  24. Greetings all! I am new to this site and have read a lot of the posts, along with a lot of research outside this site. I do have a few questions on my build that I cant seem to find answers too. I have been told that 240-350 cubic inch per one burner. Which number is closer? I don't want to build a "cheap" forge, but I sure don't want to pay an arm and a leg for some thing I might only take up as a hobby. I do have a blower to use on build, but I have recently read that it might be too weak. CFM isn't listed. I want to say its 1550 rpm. Most likely its out of a old furnace. It also says "#1 Thermal Protected" so I am not too sure if it shuts down at a specific temp or what that means. As for the burner(s) I have seen so much talk on one way or another for burner builds. My forge was going to be around 600 cubic inches. I do want to make it smaller if I can. I can get the ceramic wool in 1" or 2" from what I am told easily. (we will see when the time comes) Along with cast-able refractory if I need it. I was going to line the inside of the stainless steel shell but I was told it might break and fall into it. is this true? If I am doing a blower + propane setup do I need an elbow before it hits the burner? (to mix the gas I assume) There plans too be 3 doors on it. ! back door that I can take down if I need to do larger items, and 2 front doors that swing out and to either side with an exhaust hole in them when they are closed. There will be a small porch as well. What (if any) is the ratio of burner to exhaust hole size? I plan on making it an outside forge, that is semi portable. If I make the bed or floor do I put it on the blanket or the cast-able refractory, or just cast it along with the rest the shell? As for the propane setup I was planning on running 1 BBQ sized bottle. Will it freeze up? I'm sorry for all the questions, but from what I have read there is a ALOT of knowledgeable people here. Where I live I cant seem to find any one near that has any info. I tell people I want to build a forge and I get either "what's that" or "why?!" (mid west Montana) If there is any one that wants to talk one on one I will be fine with that as well. Just figured that a few of the many questions I had where not listed (or I overlooked them) in the forums and would be helpful for others as well. The more I know, the more questions I have it seems. I thought this would be some simple project in the start but I have created a monster of one for me! :unsure: P.S. I know this belongs in a different thread but I will ask here first since I have asked a lot from you guys/gals as is. I am also looking for an anvil but don't want to buy it if I cant see/feel it. What stores or places would have such an item that would be worth buying? Again so sorry for the long post. I want to get this right and not have to scrap it and start over. If you need more info or questions for me please feel free to ask.
  25. I recently discovered that my great grandfather was a blacksmith. This led me to discover his old tools in our basement. An anvil (rusty), and old blower (busted), a fire pot (also rusty), and an Indian chief pole vise. I'm interested in putting theses bits of family history to use, I'm just not sure how to go about cleaning off the rust without damaging them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, any ideas on an inexpensive way to build a compact forge using the fire pot I have? I'm thinking steel table maybe? Again thanks. Looking forward to learning this amazing trade.