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Showing results for tags 'bevels'.
No idea whether or not this is the proper place to put this but I was wanting an more in depth explanation as to whether or not the transition between the edge bevel and the secondary bevel will effect a blades cutting ability. I'm not talking about a ridiculous 20° edge and a 40° secondary. I'm talking about a much closer transition but one that's not quite as smooth as it could be. I suppose the better phrasing would be "is it possible for the secondary bevel to create drag or hinder the cut in any way"
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I'd like to jump in straight away with an issue I've been having for the last few weeks, and I'd like to request your feedback accordingly. I've started forging knives in my backyard since about a year now. I've been able to make about a dozen knives. I had to throw away a few, as they were mainly for practice in order to improve my skills. I Own a small propane forge (big enough for knives, too small for hammers), have a small anvil (15kg), and thoroughly enjoy the whack whack bit and the wood work finish for the handle. I do not own a proper belt grinder.
I've started putting bevels on some knives I've forged with a file jig. I went online on Amazon and saw a lot of people unhappy with the current made-in-mexico Nicholson files, so I'm wondering if this group of wise bladesmiths have any recommendations for double-cut bastard files? Brand names and where do you buy them, please.
I have forged and heat treated a few knifes (1084 and/or 1095 steel) and now want to step up to an eight or ten inch chef's knife or maybe a Gyuto style. knife. Consider three factors (a) the profile, (b) the distal taper and (c) the bevel, Forging any one of these factors has an effect on the other two, The question is , how to I balance the forging process ? The stock removal process of knife making does not appeal to me, I prefer to work at the anvil as much as possible and minimize the amount of grinding. Thanks for any advice.