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Found 84 results

  1. Hey, So I just started this account because I'm looking for a power hammer. This is gonna be long because I need specific information, so I appreciate the patience of anyone who can help. I work in a production metal shop building very high end lighting and furniture with no forged elements whatsoever. I started this job after working for three years as a full time blacksmith. So I've been pushing the company towards forged work since I started a year ago, and they've now started to respond. I'm currently purchasing the tools necessary to make that happen, and of course the big decision is the power hammer. I have a lot of experience with a Big Blu 155lb. and if it were my decision I would just get one of those because I know them and I like the guys there. My boss though is not decided because he's used to old Nazels. The main concern, with us being a production shop is the consistency of blows and the repeatability of a texture. What are some hammers that offer that? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks
  2. I am looking at a very old but in good condition Hawkeye helve hammer. It is an early one with the wood column where the hammer arm pivots from. It seems to be all there. Originally run off of an overhead line shaft. Anyone ever use one of these? Anyone out there have one in operation? It is not a big hammer. It is very compact and takes up little floor space. Just looking for comments about how these work. Thank you.
  3. Hello Guys; As this is my first post, let me introduce myself. I am bart; hobby knifemaker/blacksmith. Professionally I am a linux / unix system administrator. Because I cannot train my shoulder ( lack of time), and have the parts lying around anyway; I decided I needed mechanical help. i'm building something resembling a appalachian power hammer; with influences from Norm Tuckers machine and James Helms gunhilda. John Perks in the UK has something similar as wel on youtube. I have a anvil composed of discs that interlock to form one cylinder. I'll attach a foto; they are about 30 cm across; 5 cm high and 25 kilo each; I have 17 of them. they resonate as one solid block, so I figured it should work if I clamp/weld/tighten them down good enough. I can always replace it later with a bunch of stacked solid bars and invest the money in that. Anyway, this makes my anvil up/down gradeable in height.I plan to put it directly straight under the hammer; but for this I need to mount the hammer and the guide first. I have 3 questions: 1. Where - in height - do you position the guide ? my central colum is a heavy I-beam, 25cm x 12 cm standing about 2,5 meters high. Or is this "adjustable" by modifying the other parameters of the moving parts (drive shaft) ? The anvil is about 85 cm high without head, and it sits on 3 I beams 25 cm high. so the anvil with die will arrive somewhere 120 cm high. I'll attach an older foto when it was still under contsruction. The rubber pads go under the frame , I use the chain thing to be able to lift the frame ... one-man shop; lifting this is not possible otherwise. 2. I don't have a plate steel base; BUT i have a LOT of heavy I-beam; so I welded 3 of them together to create a 40 cm wide 2 meter long base with 2 legs about a meter sideways. all extremities have boltholes to attach to the floor. Under the I-beam; I have alternating plates of wood/rubber; 3 times. Is that enough ? 3. I have a choich of 2 leaf springs: one more curved with more leaves but each leaf is about 1 cm thick. Or one about 2cm thick and more straight, but also 5 cm shorter, with tapered ends. which would be best ? greetings, bart. P.S. great forums; great info can be found here.
  4. Finally got round to scanning this in. It is a bit big I am afraid, 9.3mb, if anybody wants to reduce it down a bit and repost it be my guest! I did knock it down to 6.7mb but some of the specification numbers became illegible. I did check it was okay with John Nicholson to post this as he is the supplier and restorer of Massey Hammers in the UK now. I will post the hammer installation information on a separate thread. For those using US English, when they refer to Pallets they mean what some of you call Dies... Alan Massey Clearspace Power Hammer Brochure.pdf
  5. hello guys, i am a metal worker in long island, NY. crows wing armory. i had an old p.o.s cast anvil and it kinda crapped out. so now im looking for a power hammer. both so i can get in more commisions in and out and because a forged anvil is just a bit out of my price range. i have found a range of power hammers that may be too good to be true. so i am asking if anyone has come across a liushi power hammer. i found them on alibaba wholsale website. they do ship individually tho. so im trying to find out if anyone has and any experience with them. if there good for the cash or total crap.
  6. Hi Can anyone help? I have recently acquired a 2CWT Massey clear space hammer. The hammer has lived out side in the elements for the past 16 years and is currently undergoing something of a refurbishment. I've managed to free most of the stuck parts but have become stuck with a sticking (stuck) valve. I can unscrew the top nut and drop the spindle as far as it will go within the machine. There is another nut at the top but some enterprising bod in the past has hammered (peined) the protruding thread so is difficult to remove. Can anyone help with the correct way to remove the control valve assembly for renovation and refitting? See attached photos.....
  7. Hi Everyone I am soon taking delivery of a new 15kg/C41 AIr Hammer. I have received the following guide (see photo) from the company with regards to installing a foundation but I have an issue with my landlord being fussy about me putting in a foundation. What else can I do? I want to ensure the hammer is secure yet does not crack the existing floor. It is not a very big hammer so does it need a foundation? Would a wooden base/block or maybe rubber matting work? Rich
  8. I have been a reader for way too long and its time to do some posting. I'm sorry to join and right away post a question, but I'm going to be that guy so here it goes. I have coveted a power hammer for a long time, and now I have run across a hammer that I may be able to grab. The problem is I don't know what i should pay for it. I know there are lots of post on this already, but they all give a rather large range of prices depending on the specific hammer. I was hoping that with some pictures someone on here may be able to nail down what I should pay for this hammer. According the the seller it is in "great overall condition 8/10 it work the same as the day it came out of the factory no cracks,weld, major rust i freshly took it apart and cleaned it, greased the parts and adjusted the hammer." The hammer is a 25# Canadian Giant, which apparently is the same as a Jardine (not sure if that is true). based on the pictures, and what little info I have given what do you think it is worth? Thank you in advance for your advice and help.
  9. Hello everyone, I will be soon making my own power hammer. I would like to make a bow spring linkage as seen in the pictures below. From what I have seen and read the springs need to be bent far more than what is commonly available in the form of trailer springs. My Question: How would you bend a trailer spring into a near 'U' shape? Can it be done safely? Please let me know what you guys think. My idea was, worst come to worst, I will just bend them in the forge while hot, and leave them unhardened.
  10. This piece comes from a sketch I drew up in the 2011/12 winter. I modified the look to be thin and tall, I just felt like it would look better. All of the iron was forged from 2” x ¼” bar stock, with exception of the cattail stems (1/4” round rod). The frame is textured with “hit & miss” texture, I ran past the confines of the frame because I wanted to add depth to the piece and life. Living things don’t care about the boarders or bounds that you might want them to live with in-they grow were the sun draws them. Adding the dragonflies really brought the piece together and made all aspects of it pop. This piece is all hand forged, and textured, it solid iron, and finished with beeswax. It measures 40” tall and 14”wide. Thanks for looking!!!!
  11. Well, I've spent enough money on supplies that I decided it was time to start a thread about this. I've been slowly planning out this build, and am finally pulling the trigger on some materials. Last week I brought home this used motor to power the beast, 1.5 HP industrial motor, single phase, 220 v. Then today whilst wandering the scrapyard I found the right hunk of steel for the anvil, 9.25" dia steel, 3' long. Weighs in about #700. That's all for now, I'll keep ya'll updated as I slowly get together the stuff to start the build. Stephen.
  12. hello everyone, i am only a beginner in blacksmithing and a thin person as well which is kind of an issue if you wanna do a heavy work like blacksmithing, because of this I've been looking lately of ways to acquire a power hammer which will help a lot with the forging of heavy metals. i am ok with forging metals up to 16 mm thickness but beyond that becomes too much and i get too tired. I've been looking for ways of building one from schematics since my father is able to help me because he is a mechanical engineer and we thought of taking a woodworkers band saw machine and modify it to become a power hammer, but these plans are all into ideas now. while searching for ideas we've found a Raskin press machine which works kind of like a power hammer with 15 ton pressure output and we've been wondering if it could run as a power hammer if the tooling is changed. the owner used it to punch holes into 3mm metals. it has the capability of continues hitting or a single hit. i do not have a video and the pictures are not that good because the man was kind of in a hurry but can you take a look and tell me what you think? thanks in advance. the specs are: RASKIN type 14 TINC 14TONS PRESSURE DATE: 09/06/52 Belgium
  13. My brother in law, Bill is building a power hammer, so we can make billets, the hammer chosen was the "RUSTY" the Appalachian Power Hammer. Last night we took most metal parts that needed welding and got them welded by my friend Mark. Now the assembly will begin, here are some pictures of my friends garage. http://www.appaltree...rusty/RUSTY.htm Here are some pictures: Here is the final hammer without the electric motor:
  14. Greetings, gentlemen. One important question for you, please: My bladesmithing master installed power hammer in his shop - the type embedded in the floor in a deep pit, with proper cushioning (as per instructions). However, when it's put to work, the entire house is shaking - and since it's fairly old house, the end result is that he is unable to use the power hammer at all. It was quite costly, so we're trying to figure out what else can we do to be able to use it. Recently, my master came across notion of some kind of "pneumatic absorption pillows", that could possibly solve this problem. Do any of you, please, have some idea about what might help or where I might get pair of these "pillows"? The desired size is 28x28 cm (that would be about 11x11 inch). Any info and help is much appreciated! Many thanks, Tomas
  15. Well..almost, just some teasing pictures for now. 2.5'x3.5'x3' Hmm, offset or straight.. Need a bigger hammer.. I thought if I cut some grid lines I could break it up easy. Cutting concrete is awful though. Maybe 30min with the jackhammer My blue shop vac.. There is a bit of clay in the dirt here so I used some to smash around the sides and hold in the gravel, worked well. 3ft deep! Lines..just cause
  16. I purchased a common sense power hammer # 2, 75 pounder, and just brought it home. If any of you have one of these or experience with one, I'm interested in knowing any tips for getting it hooked up and running. This hammer sat in a blacksmith shop without use for the last 20 years, was covered with 20 years of crud and dust, yet it has cleaned up nice and everything moves freely. The picture was taken prior to cleaning.
  17. I was at the Chautauqua County Antique Equipment Association show this past weekend where they maintain and fully equiped blacksmith shop. Went there to watch and ended up working there for two days doing demos and working on a billet for a damascus blade that I had been doing at home by hand on my anvil. I know safety equipment is lacking here, but I did not expect to work. On day two, I geared up with pants, boots and safety glasses. Still forgot my ear plugs though! If video links are OK, this is a video I uploaded to youtube...
  18. http://www.msichicago.org/scrapbook/scrapbook_exhibits/leonardo/models/12_model.html Never tryed to post a link before hope it works... I saw this while looking up striking anvil pics and thought it was pretty cool. Sorry if this has been posted before. Enjoy
  19. I was offered a used Clay Spencer tire hammer and I need to know how much money they usually go for. The machine other than cosmetics (light rust) seems to run just fine. It was built at a Clay Spencer workshop and seems to be overall correct. I also need to know what type of floor base this machine should sit on once I get it home. I have dirt right now so any option is still available.
  20. Here is a video shaping 14 gauge sheet metal into a ferrel that I use on bark spuds. Used to do them by hand but this is quicker and easier.......
  21. After a lot of work, I have completed my mechanical power hammer. This is how I wanted to construct my power hammer, very adjustable. The most unique feature is the clutch mechanism. It consists of two automotive brake rotors. One is fastened to the crankshaft and the other is driven by the motor and free to rotate on the crankshaft. Between the two brake rotors is a 3/8" thick piece of clutch friction material. The footpetal force is transfered through a clutch linkage to a Chevy small block V-8 throw-out bearing that pushes the rotors together. I credit Ray Clontz [designer of the Tire Hammer] for encouraging me to build a power hammer instead of a treadle hammer. The auto rotor clutch system is inspired by Ray's own personal power hammer. The brake rotor disk clutch works very smoothly. For those interested, I have hastily posted some photogrphs and notes on my website. I am running the machine at a maximum 2.6 impacts per second until I am more comfortable operating it at a faster speed. A power hammer radically improved my blacksmithing experience. I can't guess how many more times it moves hot metal than I can by hand. Fred