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  1. So, I modified my current forge by moving the burner from the back to the front, I also placed it at a tangent across the arched ceiling and slightly toward the back. You can see it running in the picture below. I got a nice even heat. I ran it with the original burner port open which seemed to 'pull' the flame to the back (the back is closed). Plugging the burner port in the back also works but the cool spot will be larger. I have to run it a bit longer to be sure what the difference is. I guess I am just wondering about the advantages/disadvantages of having a small exhaust in a long narrow
  2. Alright I'm new to the world of blacksmithing and I actually have quite a few things right now that have gotten me along but I want to go bigger... I have a 1x30 grinder and I want to buy a 2x72 KMG it runs at about $2500... That will be most of my paycheck from this summer... I also want to buy a gas forge the one I would buy is on eBay for $650 it's a 5 burner sword forge so I could use it for anything really... Last I want to build a power hammer but i don't know what to get first or if I should get any of these yet I have a coal forge and I have hammers I just want to go bigger please give
  3. Hi guys, I'm looking to start my own blacksmith shop, I already have my anvil, now I only need a forge... I want to build a forced air gas forge, I have access to an entire steel workshop, so building it is not the problem. I need the math for a 4 burner forge with a burner configuration of "01010100010"(0= an open space,1 = blower) I like this configuratuon cause then I can have very high temp on a small spot or just regular high temp throughout... 1: will this configuration work in the way I think it will ? 2: how do I make the blowers? (I can make ever
  4. I've officially started building my first gas forge. Honestly, I've never done something like this. Most of what I know about smithing comes from the black hole known as the Internet. So, I'm reaching out. I'm starting a thread to get input from the community as I run into problems. Here's what I got so far: It's a propane tank with a big hole cut into the top. I made the hole approximately 8" in diameter. I did this to make it easier to insulate the thing, and light it up later on. Notice, I've sanded all the paint and little rust down to bare metal. I plan to use high heat primer a
  5. I've had a hard time finding Frosty's design on here and online in general, but I did find it after about an hour. Bellow is the link to the website. Just trying to share it on here, as I'm sure it has been many times, and make it easy to find. I apologize if this is obnoxiously redundant... Probably should've posted it in the gas forge forum... Frosty is an active member here, and if you had looked in the gas forge section you would have had better luck locating it than in the building a shop section, I will move this where it belongs. and remove the off site link. since its pinned at t
  6. I finally found a container for my ceramic wool. (could only find aluminium stove pipe and chromed stainless steel tubing for awhile). And I wanted to share my progress, see what you think. The shell is an old flour bucket, 22 CM diameter 30 cm deep. I cut it lengthwise. On the inside I put 2 layers of 2.6 Cm ceramic wool (128 Kg/Cubic M), rigidezed, cured and then kiln washed (rigidizer/water, 75% zirconium silicate, 25% Kaolin clay) after air drying the kiln wash I fired up the forge. After that the inside had set and I applied another layer of the wash. For a floor I use a ceramic
  7. Ok, so me and my parter have made a few knives and are happy with our results so we think we're ready to move onto forge welding and making some demascus. I've got a pretty simple design in my head. I have an old propane tank I can cut the bottom and top out of. Going to cut a hole it, shove a weed burner in it ,fill it with a firebrick/ refractory cement mixture up to the lip and coat the outside with kaowool. I don't like doing things twice so I'd like to do it right and I've heard that most fluxes can tear through basically anything pretty quickly so I've done some research on materials I c
  8. Just recently built my first forge a Coke forge in fact, and now after a few months of tinkering I've concluded I want to venture into the realm of gas forging. As far as a body goes, I'll recycle an old propane tank with ceramic wool for insulation with a refractory cement coating on the inside. Now I just need to contemplate a burner, any suggestions
  9. I am in the final steps of finishing my propane forge. I have made a burner based off of Zoeller's Sidearm burner, with some small modifications: namely a customized choke and my own take on the MIG tip assembly. I ran the burner for the first time today in my driveway, and I noticed that it sounded very choppy as I added more and more oxygen. I took a short video as I cycled through the choke, watch it here. https://vid.me/nxoS It was sort of windy out, but I don't know if that's what led to the choppy burn. I have more pictures of the burner here on Imgur. This site likes to delete pho
  10. I'm not great at searching this site so please excuse me if this has been covered but I'm looking for information on sizing a burner for a small forge. I prefer ribbon burners and I need to build a smaller forge. My big forge is wasteful for a lot of the work I do and I need smaller heats. I can't set up coal (as much as I wish I could) right now. I'm thinking of an interior volume in the neighborhood of 400 cubic inches. I'm also wondering if it might work to cast plugs into some of the holes in a larger burner. Goofy I know, but I have a pine ridge lp190 that I'm not currently using but
  11. Soo, where to begin. I built a little trash can forge with one of those handheld burners for the heat source, after watching some YouTube videos and thought, that looks easy enough.. And straight off the bat I ran into some issues. The burner is a Rothenberger Industrial, that runs off of a butane/propane mix (70/30% - Rothenberger Multigas 300, if anyone is familiar with it). The can says the gas can potentially get to 1900°C. The nozzle however gets to only about 800ish (it can get a 1/4" piece of steel to cherry red in about a minute or two). Is that good enough to get a forg
  12. Hey guys its me again I was givin this forge last night from a good friend who was a ferrier yrs ago it works like a hot dam fired right up let me know wat ya think I ain't done nothing in er yet but the flame looks good and it gotwarm real quick is wat I'm saying hahaha
  13. I've been using Michael Porter's Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns as plans to build my gas forge and burner. The plans recommend I use a Tweco .030 or .035 inch MIG welding contact tip, 1-1/2-inch long. I have no experience with these parts, and have no idea what the importance is of the length, the taper, etc, and I've been unable to find this part anywhere. The drawings in my plans show a tapered MIG tip (shown in attachment), but I've had difficulty finding anyone who carries any contact tips with tapers. Most parts I've been able to find have a rounded end. Does the overall len
  14. So im a bit tired of all the coal, and size of my old outdoor forge, and so i got the oppertunity to get my own garage, but no electricity, so i thought, i could make my own clean shop with gas forge, i just want to know if i could take that geyser, and turn it into one, also if you could tell me how i would really appreciate it, ive been forging for 1 month but i love it, but the coal one is very primitive, any advice would be much appreciated
  15. I tried to post this in thread, but keep getting forbidden. sigh. As an update on the blower issue, I have done some more research, talked with one of the engineers that I work with that has done air balancing on ovens, and have come up with some helpful information. I contacted Kayne and sons about the blowers they have, which by the way will do the job in SPADES. The one piece of nomenclature that seems out of place is the way these blowers are rated with regard to static pressure. Static pressure should be rated in inches of water column. So the rating of the blowers in ounces of static
  16. Can anyone recommend a cost effective blower that could be used with a ribbon burner? I know that most require 5 lbs. of static pressure. I also know that blowers are available from some of the blacksmith supply houses. But I would like to find a suitable alternative that didn't cost $140 per copy at the start. Like everyone I want to walk the line between spending what is necessary and not over spending. From my research, it seems I would be looking for a centrifugal blower, that has the necessary sp to run the ribbon burner. Can anyone make some recommendations on where they have source
  17. I know this is probably an over-posted topic, but I've been looking for an answer for quite a while and I haven't found it. I've seen several pros and cons lists about coal vs. gas stoves. I've seen a lot of the same information, but also a lot of conflicting information. I'm looking to build a mid-size forge to be my first forge. I am a complete novice at blacksmithy. That being said, I've seen some people who say that coal stoves are the way to go for beginners. According to some, because of the versatility and better heat available with a coal forge, that is where all beginners should start
  18. I built the gas forge pictured, I read about a few different types of burners and thier capabilities, I decided to go with the 1" burner design shown. I used a 1 1/4" tee and a .030 mig tip, the tube is about 11-12" long and goes directly into the forge just down to the inside of the chamber. Inside dimensions are 2.5"x 4"x 9". The burner seems to flutter a lot as well, spitting fire out the front. And just runs very inconsistent. The way I have it set up I am running about 20psi and still cannot get the inside of the forge to get hot enough to get to a nice yellow hot it just gets to a orang
  19. ok, all...I have had some down time the last couple of days and decided to build a computer model of a gas forge I am wanting to build. this will be my 3rd forge build and second gas forge build. I have taken all information that I have been able to find on IFI and other sources and this is what I have come up with. Dimensions are diameter O.D.of 14" and length of 16". once all ceramic blanket is in place and coated that should give me an I.D. of approx. 10". I will build up the floor to create a flat bottom lined with kiln bricks. front and rear door that will fully open to allow easy in
  20. Hey everyone I'm new here. I want to start by saying I've learned a lot already. That being said building the ole first forge and I have not seen a ton of info about combining insulating methods. I was going to try pearlite and refractory to close the cavity in my 22 propane tank. Then an inch fiber blanket soaked in sanite. Once hardened coat with cement. Just for knife making maybe forge welding down the road. Not sure I saw this combo anywhere. Is the pearlite all bad news? I heard it can sag.
  21. Hello all. As I find more of my forge time devoted to playing with Damascus and making billets, I’m not liking the fact that I’m heating up 1413 cubic inches of space for approx. 36 cubic inches of material. So I’ve decided I’ve got too much time on my hands and I need another project. I want to make a dedicated, small forge-welding forge. Here’re my options: 1.) Complete my original plan with my current forge (an 18″ length of 14″ diameter 1/4″ steel pipe with 2″ castable refractory for insulation and a 4″x10″ ribbon burner) and cast removable inserts out of Greencast to both shrink the
  22. I have been reading post on gas forges now for 2 months. I am trying to learn everything I can on Gas forges. Yes I am going to buy the "Book". My question is if you did not build your own what did you buy. And what ones did you buy and hate. I am wish to learn the the basics of blacksmithing for the pure fun of learning it. As people say 1 gas forge will not do it all. but what commercial model are you using, Thanks everyone for sharing
  23. Over the time I have been visiting this forge I have seen a lot of people come through and ask about all sorts of designs of forges. Most of the people posting such threads are actually new to using a gas forge and often new to smithing. I have advised many of these newer smiths to first build a brick pile forge, use that a while and then go to something more serious once you figure out how big you will need. So now I wanted to make a definitive post as a guide for these people. The forge will have an internal size of 9" x 4.5" x 6.5", or 263 cubic inches. It is, however, easily reconfigured
  24. hello everyone i am working on my first gas forge which is a used central heating furnace converted into a forge. my father helped me construct it since he is an engineer and has some experience from working with central heating over the years. now i am starting to doubt my decision to use the furnace since is has a lot of excess metal on it which might absorb a lot of heat from the fire. At the begging we constructed a burner using a video from you-tube from David Hammer which was good for a first one but didn't have the capacity to heat such a large chamber. then we decided to build it from
  25. Myself and a friend are very new to blacksmithing, we've done very simple work on rebar and made some ugly railroad spike knives. Although we have a coal forge the forge we use mostly is a bulk size can (that used to hold nacho cheese) we lined the inside with a 50 50 mix of sand and plaster to insulate it. Originally we wanted to run it of of propane torch fed in via a hole in the side, very similar to designs using smaller cans. but it didn't get hot enough, so we moved to MAPP gas which gets the forge barely hot enough, but it will get iron and low carbon steel yellow/white hot. I'm wonderi
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