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  1. Finally got my gas forge up + running! Have a standard 20# grill tank on it and have been considering a larger one but am looking for advice. The 20's are readily available & easily refilled, but don't last real long and can freeze up. Been thinking of either a 30, 40, or 100# size- I like the capacity of the 100, but have a few reservations and would like to hear others experiences.
  2. I fiinished forge 1.0. Details: propane tank, 2 inches of kaowool, lotsa stiffener (sopping wet is right) and a layer of kastolite. Frosty 3/4 in t-burner. Here's what it looks like. Any comments? I also have a regulator question. Mines an adjustable unit, bell-shaped with a wing nut to control psi. I'm not sure exactly what I'm doing when I twiddle that wing nut. I'm going by sound mainly, so when it roars I figure it's workin. Be nice to know what I'm doing. Sorry if the pic's too big.
  3. Hello from Belgium, Glad to be part of the IFI community now. Found a very interesting forums and lots of knowledge around technic, skills and practices. Here a short introduction of myself. After professional education (maintenance mechanic) and after several years work/training in a lock/black-smith shop, finally running my own BS-shop for 9 years on a historical Dutch shipyard. Because of health reasons and funding a family I rest de shop and went back to school for studying quality- and work safety management. Since about 17 years I’m busy on payroll now to ma
  4. Hello again, I've had some time to do research on different kinds of refractory material and I really like how the Kast-O-Lite 30Li sounds at first glance. I was wondering if I should coat the Kast-O-Lite in an IR refractory like ITC-100 (a little too pricey for me...) or Meeco's Red Devil 610 refractory cement (well with in my price range but unsure about efficacy). I have attached a ROUGH drawing of the front of the forge. Here is an overall idea of what I'm shooting for: Brushed stainless metal trash can for the shell (H=12" Dia=8") Hoping to do 2" of Kast-O-Lite to make
  5. If the only store that sells insulating wool not have ceramic wool but they have fiberglass wool, would that be cool or would that be a terrible idea? Any alternatives. Also just for fun, any fun or cool/wacky forge ideas that works surprisingly.
  6. I have been doing forge work for many years and have a great coal/charcoal forge. however due to time constraints I decided to branch out into gas forge work as the heat up and cool down times are drastically reduced. after getting the materials and working with a friend to build the forge I realize now that its going to need some modification to work as needed. To begin with this is a double burner forge utilizing a high pressure regulator with a 0-10PSI valve. the original design was to make this forge on a pivot so it can be turned upright to be used for the large crucibles I h
  7. Hi everyone. I recently bought a devils forge single burner forge for some of my smaller projects. I've tested it from less than 0.1Mpa to 0.8 Mpa. The issue is the forge doesn't get hot enough. Or if it does it's a huge fireball coming from the forge. Also, I keep reading about some kind of coating I need to put on the wool? Any info on that would be appreciated!
  8. So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice o
  9. So I am building 2 forges, one from an old wok that burns wood, and one from a large pizzeria sized pineapple chunk can and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a place in the St. Catharines ON area to procure some kaowool on the cheap, or alternately is willing to sell some on the cheap. All advice is appreciated! Also, what is the best way to seal the kaowool?
  10. Hi! I'm a reenactor who has decided to build their first forge. I've done a bit of work on coal but for working at home I decided that gas would be the much easier choice. I read the thread on Forge 101 and it warned about not starting too big but now I'm worried as to what you guys consider "too big". The size of what I've drawn up (diagram below) is based on the size of the things I need to be producing for reenactment (mostly larger axe heads) but please let me know if you think I've been too ambitious. The burner I'm planning to use is the 1" gameco bkit3 burner. All sides of the ste
  11. Hi, my name is Jim. I am 37, a father of a two & three year old. I am a carpenter by day & well a busy father after. As my life is chaotic and I'm always busy either with work or taking care of others I needed some serious me time! So the adventure began, first it was straight razors but that just wasn't enough for me. I buy, sell & restore them. I got involved with the forums but I don't feel as if I actually fit there. I have nothing bad to say it's just you can't fit a square peg in a round hole. Now after taking a serious interest in blacksmithing & after long careful consi
  12. Hey All! So still learning lots everyday about Smithing. I have been learning on a Coal forge and have one all set to go into a building once it is built when the ground hardens here in Oregon! But in the mean time I have a Forgemaster Blacksmith model... ya I caved and just bought one instead of building one though i may still build one down the road... I wanted to get to where I could practice things at home that I am learning at the shop (40miles away) hence the gasser as i can open up the garage door while its raining out side and bang away...... My problem is with t
  13. Recently I stumbled upon a youtube channel with loads of amazing glass blowing videos and I've probably spent a few hours glued to my screen drooling over the videos, so I of course started thinking about doing this myself, has anyone used a propane forge with Frosty's T burners for glass blowing? are there any reasons why that wouldn't work?, my biggest concern is it might be too hot
  14. Hi guys, I'm looking to start my own blacksmith shop, I already have my anvil, now I only need a forge... I want to build a forced air gas forge, I have access to an entire steel workshop, so building it is not the problem. I need the math for a 4 burner forge with a burner configuration of "01010100010"(0= an open space,1 = blower) I like this configuratuon cause then I can have very high temp on a small spot or just regular high temp throughout... 1: will this configuration work in the way I think it will ? 2: how do I make the blowers? (I can make ever
  15. I am finally getting started on my new forge and wanted to share with you my progress on the burners. This forge will employ None Aspirated Ribbon Burner (NARB) burners, (2). I based the design on Frosty's burner but change the dimensions from the 2X2X7 to 4X4X2.5. I am using the same number of ports (17), but reduced the size from crayons (3/8") to 1/4" as I will use machine threaded bolts in place of the crayons.. Today I ran a test of the burner using a wood insert to take the place of refractory. It fired off nicely, sounds good, and the flame looks ok but I have not turned the MIG
  16. I am making a gas forge. I am using a water heater tank. The dimensions (outer) of the tank are 24 inches long by 20 in diameter. I have enough cerachem to line it to a three inch thickness. I am going to make a forced air ribbon burner for it. I am going to build the blower so that it will provide a static pressure of at least 25 inH20. That should be plenty from the stoichiometric calcs. I have a refractory coating to coat the cerachem and a couple of firebricks (good to 3000 F) for the deck. My main question at this point is what do I need to do to install the cerachem? Will it stay in p
  17. I built a torch who works with natural gas and propane. Modernization is quick, simply to change nozzles. To take full advantage of "The Monster Torch" I designed and built a new furnace. This is a video of the work of the burner with propane. http://youtu.be/0zriNb1MUJs Here are the pictures you can see the steps of build and the principle of operation of the furnace. Mix of natural gas and atmospheric hot air accelerates to speed of burning using the compressed hot air. The first test run with natural gas. The furnace is almost cold, work wit
  18. Hello, new to this forum and thought I would throw a curve ball. I am starting to piece together a respectable metal working tool collection and I am missing a forge. I don't have the scratch to throw down for a new/used forge. I have a bad ford transmission that I plan on gutting and was wondering if it could be used as the hull of a forge. I was thinking about casing the inside with a fire-brick mortar. That's really as far as I've thought this through. Anybody tried this, heard of trying this or has some constructive criticism to throw at me would be greatly appreciated.
  19. Well I had everything set up to build this forge and then got side tracked with a forge off of e-bay that was only a few miles away, it ended up blowing out, Link below. and I decided that I would finish the project I had started and one day possibly salvage the other one to have a monster forge!! But for now this little guy is all I really need. So sit back and enjoy some pictures and I'll take you through what I have done so far. Please feel free to offer guidance as this is the first forge I have built. I've just been going off of this page and learning as I go! Step 1, get
  20. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could
  21. Hello to everyone and thank you in advance, my name is seth and I'm in the Denver co. Area, I'm building a gas forge out of an old propane tank. I have my refractory and my ceramic blankets are in the mail. My questions lie in how to build my burner ( I really have no base knowledge to go off of so I need to do more reading for shure) and if I plan on lining the ceramic blankets with the refractory cement do I really need to use a rigidiser on the blankets before I coat them with the refractory? I still need to build my table to put everything safely on and make a hole for my burner I wa
  22. Hey all, Ive been lurking for a while reading up and looking around. I'm new to blacksmithing and I am just about to start gathering materials for a gas forge build. I've taken a couple classes here and there to see if I could get a feel for it and things have been coming pretty naturally so I figured it's time to get my hands dirty. I just had a couple questions about a design I've been mulling over, loosely based on a forge I used in a class. dementions are 10"x10"x10" angle iron and sheet metal box open on opposite ends with 2" ceramic fiber board on the inside on four sides
  23. HI all. I got given a LPG (propane) forge and have used it for about 3 years on and off and never had any issues. Now I'm getting sore thorats, headaches and a bit of nausea after I use it for a prolonged time (full day, multiple days in a row), issues I never had before, same forge and same space. Two things have changed - i relined it and increased the insulation - it initially only had ceramic fibre board insulation. I replaced the ceramic fibre board also used some ITC products to seal thefibre board, boost reflectivity etc.. The other thing I did was I removed the back forge wa
  24. after recently been laid off at the machine shop by work that I've decided to take up an interest that's fascinating me since I was a child. Below I have 3-D renderings of the forge I designed this is based after the forge that my great uncle used. It's going to be made from a steel cyclinder that is 21" long, a 1/4" thick, and has a 10" diameter. It has an end that is blocked off with a rectangular hole of an undetermined size that will be able to be covered by a hinged door. The main reason I added this feature is so there isn't a jet of fire being blown out of the open end of the forge. I a
  25. I have built a number of Zoeller Type side arm burners. They have all worked well. However, I am having trouble setting up my newest forge. I have run these burners through soft brick and flared the inside of the bricks to create a flame holder. I have also made kaowool forge tops and just cut a hole for the burners and have worked well without any flaring. My newest forge has two burners and the top is 12" x 17" set on top of a rectangle of soft brick. One of the burners works great, the other sputters and will not form a typical flame. I removed it and added a stainless flare. It works great
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