John Smith

Thanks for the links. I do have a Japanese forging hammer from Dick Fine Tools of Europe, I however am looking for a heavier hammer now and all the sites I have looked at carry the same ones. But I have had several people contect me about making me what I want. So any and all info is welcome.

Hey guys and gals I am looking for a smith to make me a 4.5 lbs Japanese style forging hammer. As I have no time to make one for myself. So email or PM me. John

This was a wonderful project for me.

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Jim was kind enough to send me more home made steel that he really worked up for me. I will say no more and just post the images.

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Well guys and gals I am putting up for sale this wonderful Naginata. the total length of the blade is 36" with a 21" nagasa. The Motohaba is just under 1 1/2" the blade thickness at the mune-machi is 3/16 the blade thickness at the shinogi is 1/4" The images do not do this blade justice at all there is so much activity in this blade that it truly pains me to sell it. I still have to ad the file marks to the nakago, and to drill the meguki whole. The hamon is Choji, midare.

Chuck I choose this piece of steel because I want some great activity in the habuchi once heat treated. I could have used some W-1 or W-2 and got great results, however 1050 is a very good steel to use. Plus 1095 does not fair well in water quenching, which is what I do for all my steel. Except 5160 which is oil quenched.

Ok guys I have been out of the shop for about a month now. So aside from polishing blades and stuff. I decided to forge my first Naginata and it is in the Nanbokucho period I love that period in Japanese history. It is a wide blade and is historical to the originals I have seen, and I have reaserched the specs and there are some even wider than mine. So having said that, the blade specs are as follows. The steel is 1050. And I go it from a forum member, who's name escapes me right now OAL is 36 3/4" The Nakago is 15 1/2" The Nagasa is 21 1/4" this may change as I bring the kissaki in a bit to even the balance out. The Motohaba ( Mune-machi to Ha-machi ) is 1 1/2" The widest point at the kissaki is about a 16th under 1 3/4 The blades thickness at the mune-machi is 1/4" And once I am done draw filing the blade and have the shinogi set it will bring the mune in at the kissaki to about 3/16". There will be more sori once I heat treat it. This blade look beefy but handles extremely well. So here are some photos of the blade and my Fiance is holding it to give some depth. Comments welcome

Well Ladies and Gents I have put up a Hand forged knife and sword auction. The auctions site does not charge any insertion fees or end of auction fees. They win you get the money. This auction site is for Hand forged swords and knives along with supplies and forging equipment. Stock removal is ok. NO commercial blades or swords. SO please come in and register and enjoy the site. It is simple and not full or glitz it does its job. Knife and Sword Auction

Thanks and I will be posting more pictures of the blade as it progress's

Thanks for looking and any comments are most welcome

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Well I forged this little blade about a week ago and I finnally got it draw filled and ready for heat treat. I used Rutlands Black Furnace Cement, and this stuff works really well. Sticks well and stays put. The steel is W-1 and the OVL is 14 1/2" with a nagasa of 9 1/2" and the nakago is 5" The blade is 1 1/4 at the mune-machi tapering out to the point. Putting the edge on this blade and trying to polish it the traditional way will prove to be a very interesting experience. I have some images here for you to look at. Well here is an update. I have been using my 220 grit synthetic stone, even though I am getting a set of natural stones by Monday. I am atleast setting the foundation for the blade. Also I am looking for flaws or cracks, and there are none that I am able to see at this grit. So here are a few images of the blade at 220 grit. At the Ha-machi where the mune is, I had taken just a little to much when making the natch there so I now need to buy some copper that is 3/16" thick for the habaki. More to follow. Comments welcome

Wow sorry guys been away for a bit. Thanks for the comments and Hollow to make a Japanese style blade you need to start small. There are several books out on forging knives. And yes I could tell you but we wouldbe here for ever so As your questions and I shall answer. But experience is yourbest teacher. All I can do is show you the path. John

LOL Chad no I am rather slow and methodical about things and do not jump into forging unless I am comfortable with it. So I have been forging smaller Japanese blades for two years and Katana's have been the last year. I have been forging for 5 years total, I spent alot of time reading Jims book The complete Bladesmith. SO learning steel and most importantly what steels that I wanted to use.

Thanks Charlotte

I plan to go as far as I can with the stones that I have, but will end up using a hybrid approach on the polish, I will do a quick etch in ferric to bring out the more subtle aspects of the hamon, and then do a nugui rub on the blade. I never buff my blades ever as this takes from the beauty of the work done up to that point.

Well Chad This is not my first and I hope not my last. I am still polishing the blade, and the habuchi is very present. I am going to mount this blade in Shira-Saya. I do not have the time not patience to do fittings. So I will keep everyone posted on the progress of the blade.

Well I am in the process of polishing this blade which is a Shobu Zukuri katana. It is W-2 with an OVL of 36" with a nagasa of 27 1/4" and a nakago of 8 3/4" the blade is just under 3/8" at the mune machi and just over 3/8" at the ko-shinogi yes I said it the blade actually tapers out at the kissaki so it is tip heavy this is for the cutters out there who want a blade that actually follows thru. The motohaba is just under 1 3/8" tapering in to around 1 1/8" at the kissaki / Yokote area. Tha hamon is a, or was supposed to be an O-Choji but the clay and blade had other ideas and it sort of turned in to a wild choji-midare, to me the hamon is fantastic. And as far as I am concerned the humidity helped, as I have fixed that problem, less water to compensate for the rise in moisture. I am actually at a point to start the habaki and Shira-Saya. So I will be posting pictures on that as well. So here are the pictures let me know what yours and gals think Comments Welcome

Help me understand what you mean by a little bit more strong lines on the tip? As I am always open to comments.

Thanks guys

Jim I have known about this forum for some time. I just have not taken the time to actually sign up. But here I am ready to see what everyone here is all about.

Thanks for the welcome aboard and I am sure I will have agreat time in here

Thanks for the kind words