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Bob S

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Everything posted by Bob S

  1. Albert what kind of anvils etc do you see in local (Afghanistan) shops? Welcome to the forum. Bob
  2. The 'back clamps' allow you to move the head up or down to allow for different length tool or workpiece size. In practice I try to make tools about the same length to keep raising and lowering to a minimum. Ideally the ram should hit your tool or work when it (the ram) is horizontal. The threaded rod is for adjusting your treadle stroke (as your move the head) so that you hit your tool or work as your leg is extended. The treadle should be 1" or so from hitting the floor. Paul Marx made the 'original' fixed head t-hammer. Clay Spencer came up with the adjustable head (ram). Be careful it's easy to get hurt. Go slow.
  3. This treadle hammer is Clay Spencer's swing arm style. Plans available from ABANA if I remember right. A great hammer. Be SURE that you ALWAYS hold one hand on the raising and lowering crank when you loosen the two brake shoe clamps at the rear. ALWAYS keep your hands CLEAR.
  4. Could you post some pictures of the things you have done so far? I would be interested in some pics of the last few 100lb cast iron pours. No disrespect meant. just want to see your bonafides.
  5. Sad news. The old timers are moving on. RIP Norm.
  6. why don't you just put less oil on it? If it's running off it's too much oil.
  7. I remember when I grew up (1950s) seeing the words "Made in Japan" on the bottom of a little model car or toy was a joke. They would usually break on the way home. Today "Made in Japan" like Toyota etc is a mark of quality. When China makes that leap watch out.
  8. Are you going to make some Fisher anvil clones? I see that your location is in China. That would probably be the place to try it.
  9. you're 14!!? well lucky you. wish I was. you may need to buy a better firebrick. sure use your forge.
  10. I guess that depends on what you think a 'secret' is. A secret could be anything you don't know. It doesn't mean that someone else is keeping it from you. It just means that it's something you have yet to have revealed to you. Secrets can be revealed in many ways. By a 'master' smith. By a book. By sweat and hard work (the best way but not the easiest). And sometimes by an internet forum like this. Here is a thread from today that has a few excellent 'secrets'..... http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31028-drawing-out-math/
  11. when I softened my main forging hammer I put it in the vice and held the torch on it till the colors ran. then check it with a file. you want the file to bite. Then check it on your anvil. If it still leaves a ding do it again. it should be said that not every anvil requires a soft hammer. I have a Trenton that is on the soft side. I also have a Kohlswa that is VERY hard and doesn't ding. point is you want your hammer to be softer than your anvil.
  12. I was wondering if any of the things we talk about here every day, would have at one time been considered 'trade secrets'? Like what? Are there trade secrets any more? Would we know if there were any? Do you know any? What are they?
  13. my point wasn't that I was worried about breaking the anvil but that even with a strong anvil or swage block or bolster plate I would find it easier to make hardys or swages by drawing down a somewhat larger piece rather than upsetting at all. especially by using a jackhammer point or piece of leaf spring.
  14. this seems to be the current method of making a 'hardy' tool. personally I have always found it easier to draw down rather than upset (up). start with a piece somewhat larger (1/4") than your square hole and draw down the shank. then form the tool end into a cut off shape or a swage or ?. even easier is to take a piece of leaf spring and draw down till it fits your square hole diagonally. broken or used up jackhammer points which are widely available in construction rental places etc. they already have an upset collar and are easily made into a useful tool.
  15. Go to your local fastener store (maybe Fastenal), or try your local farm/implement store if you are in a rural area. Sometimes they have a plastic, giveaway type gauge for measuring nuts and bolts. I would also get a low priced dial caliper (under $50) so that I could measure directly. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=297&PARTPG=INLMK32
  16. don't grind on it. you should probably start your own thread. I am moviong this on to ANVILS section, you do realise this was in the tailgating section and no thread lasts more than 30 days there, :)
  17. http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/hammer,scythe/Interesting
  18. I thought about it for a while but nothing happened :rolleyes: . What do you think it means? Maybe privately. Bob
  19. The tire upsetters aren't very useful to the average shop but a tire roller could be handy for a variety of work. Your upsetter is very cool looking tho and may have some value as a rusty steampunk sort of object.
  20. Just another day as a 'been there, done that, know it all'.
  21. Eddie Rainey www.gallopforge.com Very nice work. quite a step 'above beginner' in my eyes.
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