james_leland

I just ordered a Lotos CT500D 3 in 1 (tig, arc, plasma). Has any one used one or owned one? I will be using it for automotive mostly. Any insights or info would be helpful. All the reveiws I read says they are good, But I would like some sound advice.

I know its not forging, but it took a lot of welding and burning. I am buliding a 1941 dodge 1 ton and putting it on a 1977 power wagon frame with chevy 1 1/2 axles with dana 60's both front and back and 4:11 gears. It will be powered by a 460 with a C-4 tranny and NP 205, will post more pics, I already have the cab and front clip in place. Oh the flatbed is made out of 4x2 and 4x1 square tubing.

I am sure the power hammer and a striker are the way to go, but sometimes some sweat and blood, and good old determination is the way to go.

I guess I am just not seeing it, but where did all those awesome blue prints go??

Thanks guys, I already have my hands on some RR track, and I just have to get back to ND to get my grandfather's Anvil. Thanks again for all the support. Can't wait to get back in and start it up again..

Well I wanted to make "V" tongs, but my forge got the better of me and melted one of them so they became pliers HA HA!! Its not to bad for the first time I guess.

Well this is the first time I used my forge. I made this "fire poker", any tips will be greatly appreciated. The fire got the metal to a bright white, I was useing char-coal. And please dont laugh at my little anvil, thats what I had laying around the shop. I will make a better one and/or improve this one (there was just a little wobble HA HA).

I would just get some epoxy, its fairly cheap and seals pretty much anything. One we use offshore is called splash zone, its a two part epoxy. It works great and is cheap. Or just get some bed liner from your local auto store.

just do what makes ya happy..

I use a good old corn cob pipe with some ennins in it, and also dip the good old cope..

I use a quarter turn ball vavle with a on off switch, easy to reg. and cheap..

Its alright with me, now I have some more tips to try when I get home, I like the idea of a shallow fire..

Well they won't let me go home to build one so I built it out here. It is made out 1/4" flat plate and 1/4" 2" X 2" angle iron, the pipe is 1 1/2" ID, it stands 3' 4" tall. The Top is 1' 3" X 1' 4", and the bottom of the pan is 1' X 1'. The pan is 4" deep. I know it needs a little touching up, but it will have to wait till I get home, so I can sand blast it. And I need to re-weld the seams with my mig welder. I will try it out tomorrow. All I have on the boat is the charcoal (kingsford). If there are any improvements I would love to hear them, this is my first one.

I don't have any blowers yet, but would graphite (the kind in the rattle can) work??

punches, and chisles are always handy, plus it will help with your tech. for hammering. If you want to get fancy start some scroll work..

Thanks David, I will hopefully be on land in the next few weeks. I can't wait to sign up and get some learning from you guys.

Does anybody know where I can find some clay for my forge and some coal or charcole around Lafayette LA?? And any places to find some scrap steel??

Thanks guys, I could have cleaned up better, but kind of wanted to keep it "roughed" up a bit to go along with the job, plus the company man wanted so, now I have to make another one for my self.. I know I was useing a torch and I was wondering would that make the metal cool faster. Cause its not "saturated" heat??

That video was great, I got alot of my questions answered thanks for putting that up there for us beginners..

we have a couple of pallets of 3 and 1, concrete. And a pallet of coares sand, huge grains. To use the sand just heat the metal really hot spread it on and beat away?? Again thanks for all the info, it is really helpful..

Well here is the first thing that I have ever made with a hammer and torch. It was made out of a rung from a ladder that we recovered. it is about 3/8" round stock. I heated it with the torch and when away swinging (9 lbs. hammer is tough on the old shoulder). I wrapped the handle with some seizing twine, and the sheth is made out of a 20' 2"x2" strap that was ruined during the scraping. Didn't have any rivits, so I knocked out the inside rods of a Broco rod and bent them around.

if you give me the bolt hole sizes and how many I can tell you what series the flange it is.. The lower the series # the lower the pressure it can hold, they go all the way up to 2500, and those are about 4 1/2 to 6" thick depending on the size of pipe line. I think there are six types of flanges, weld neck, slip on, threaded, lap joint, socket, and blind.

everyone I have installed was made of mild steel, that one you have there looks like a "dead mans" blind flange, for there is no port in the middle to install a gauge or a 1/4 turn HP. ball vavle to release the pressure. They are heavy and a pain to install.

another silly question, I don't have any borax or anything like that. There is a welder out here, and I know how to use it. But could I just break off the flux off some welding rods grind it down and heat weld with that??