thomas_Tex

Thomas Seems like you know your history. You are correct. But ... does the crew need guidance and direction.

Hi Frosty No problem ... I started doing a little more reading and became even more interested in the design of the project. I attribute that to you. I do have a thirst for knowledge on subjects of interest. I have read your previous post several times and apparently I have - rushed too fast too soon into the project with my over enthusiasm. Below is a quote from your previous post, that I found to be basically the first phase of Engineering guidelines or rules. Yes ... you re-opened my eyes, with them which I seemingly ignored. I am fully aware of them, maybe age has dulled my thinking? (or too much Booze) I consider these words of wisdom! 1. -First though decide on the size and construction method. You can NOT plan one without making the decision. Then pick and stick to ONE set of plans. 2.-The problem you're running into is having things more than one way. You can have it: Cheap, easy, long lasting, economical, or HOT. Pick 2. 3.-You keep saying you want to do this on the cheap but I hate to tell you, you don't know enough to do it cheap and get a forge to do what you need. You're going to have to broaden your wants and just open the wallet. 4.-Blacksmithing doesn't start to get economical to practice until after you've invested enough for basic equipment and knowledge. By-the -way - I do understand the properties of thermodynamics, regarding the principals of storing and reflecting of Heat. (Along with efficiency) Just need to brush up a little on it. Prior to retirement I worked as a Microwave RF, Telecom, modulator and multiplexer Design Engineer. ... Back in the early days of Ron Reil, I designed a program to calculate theoretical Burner Btu's, and then provided him with a copy. He made it available to others and was also nice enough to credit my name in one of his early blogs. Back to the original topic: I really don't want to become a full-time Blacksmith forging various types of steel, or even forging Knife blades. Previously (~ >20-25 yrs ago) I used the stock removal method and sent everything out for heat treating. As time marches on; currently my only interest is now installing Basic to Semi-exotic handles on 25-30 Japanese kitchen knives which I have. One of the primary tools used are; Japanese wooden woodworkers planes, which later I intend to build a few myself. This style of planes was used hundreds of years ago with great success. Once you understand the principals, they are fairly straight forward and not that hard to make or build. Except for the Iron (Blade) part. Which requires a bit of Japanese steel making knowledge for hand tools. Very interesting subject! Well ... your recent words have triggered a [re-examination and - an interest on the subject] regarding the "basic forge". I have too many unread books on this topic. Yes! I'm back in the game of researching all methods currently used today, and throughout history. How did our forefathers do it? What mistakes did they make? Interesting questions, at least for me. Edison said it best that he didn't fail 1000 times trying to develop a light bulb, only he learned 1000 ways on how not to build one. Bottom line: - I still admire your teachings, knowledge and ability. No offense taken on my current lack of knowledge on this subject. You have rejuvenated my interest! I thank you for that! Yes ... I'm back entertaining you! One other item, I have attached a picture of a simple two (soft fire brick) forge, using a propane torch which I think you mentioned earlier in a previous post. Regards; Thomas

Frosty Thank you for your technical expertise, experience and advice, you are correct regarding my intentions of just playing around with a low cost (Cheap POS) forge set up. I will be reconsidering this entire project. Thank you for opening my eyes and visions of heat treating metal to reality. After your kind and friendly advice I'll be putting this project off for another time, in the distant future. However more then ten to fifteen years ago I did built a Ron Reil burner and very much enjoyed playing with it. Well ... so much for the past! This is also when I had a large metal lathe in my machine shop. Technology has changed a great deal since then. Regards; Have a nice week! Thomas

Frosty Need and want to do ... a little more reading on the Forum. (incredible amount of knowledge) Thinking of trying to use 1" Kaowool and applying a coating. Don't know if I need a fire brick on the bottom though? If you recall [cost is an issue], where do I stop spending? Need to think about the coffee can forge a little more. Meanwhile ... moving on - and closely looking at your 3/4" pipe T burner. Very nicely designed and very well put together. Having a major problem location a 1" x 1" x 3/4" reducing T. I really don't want McMaster to poke my eyes out on the cost ... plus the shipping. Started looking locally for Plumbing supply places. Suspect it will take a while to locate one at a reasonable price. It seems recently the prices on everything has exploded and getting worse by the day! Thomas

Frosty yea - no problem with the teasing, it's OK! Twisted Willow I did not take it that way. So ... no problem! After doing a lot more reading on the forum, I was somewhat reluctant to post the picture. I now feel a little embarrassed to present the basic concept picture I was playing with. But - please keep in mind it was not intended for longevity. All I really wanted to do ... was heat treat a few small pieces of steel (blades) for my hand crafted Japanese woodworking planes. [Another Project] They call the blade an Iron for some reason. So ... it was something low cost and just to play with for a short time. Hopefully using some materials on hand, to keep the cost down and expand my heat treating knowledge a little bit more at the same time. The Japanese wood plane is an essential tool used in making Japanese knife handles, which of course will be attached to the (Chef) Blades when completed. That was the initial project, then somehow it expanded into making a small forge. Shooting Most if not all the ranges around here only go out to 300 to 400 yards. So - one has to look for a few that go out beyond that. I usually shoot at 400 + yards using a bull barrel Savage 308. By-The-Way 308 is an excellent round. After 600 yards, that's where they separate the men from the boys. Tiger Valley had one up to a mile (1760 yds) and was a nice one. It was East of Waco, that (2) Marine Snipers went in on. Unfortunately the clientele was not able to support the rent payments. So they no longer exist. There are a few nice ones near Dallas and College Station. Of course unless you get a invite to a private property owner. Accurate Long Distance shooting is an Adrenalin Rush. The long distance rifle is a Remington 300 Ultra Mag. This one can reach out and touch a target a mile away. Scopes are Mil Dot 6-24. Mil Dot is the only way to go. Reloading is another skill that requires absolute perfection. As one grows older the accuracy of long range shooting skills tend to deteriorate with age. Will the moderators allow pictures of non forge related items? or should I include an old Coal Forge Poker - to stir up the coals into the picture. Thomas Coffee Can Forge.pdf

Frosty I'm sure you'll find this .... any comment? Very Sorry for the illusive crack, regarding "Mr. Alaska". It was totally uncalled for! Please accept my sincere apologies for any negative connotations in the previous post. After reading - more from IFI in the Burners-101 section, I do have to say ... You are an "exceptionally Brilliant Man" in the field of forges and burners! & of course ... [Mikey] - Wow! Totally blown away by the information presented! -Not only - now do I admire your judgment and exceptional knowledge along with your incredible ability but, fully understand why some of the feedback and or comments toward the (Totally Inexperienced - PC-Correct statement) individuals may be considered an unpleasant comment to them, many - refusing to read any information regarding this subject. And ... they all want to be spoon fed. If they bothered to read the introduction presented, which clearly states this ... they would realize .-. Do a little reading before you ask Stupid Questions! I totally agree with this intro statement! If you are ever in the neighborhood or the San Antonio area, spend the day with me, enjoy the finest Texas BBQ and learn to shoot milk jugs at 1,000 to 1,700 yards. Regards; Thomas

Hello everyone: on I Forge Iron - Hope to contribute and be part of your wonderful forum! Recently I have been reading most of the articles regarding smaller low cost forges and Burners for the past several months now on this forum. I was happy to discover this wonderful group of highly intelligent and very knowledgeable people. In addition ... I have also have been doing a fair amount of researching, on my own and acquiring a great deal of information regarding Furnace construction, Forging, Heat Treating, along with revised Knife Making from other sources. (Gas Burners By: Michael Porter) is only one example for forge & burners. -Too many years ago I was very actively and very involved making Knives as a hobby. 10 years ago ... House burned to the ground and lost the entire Machine Shop for extreme precision Gunsmithing. Lost everything! Time has passed, and I would like to construct a small Coffee Can Forge, and currently have a .pdf drawing, which I would like to provide and post to this group. I am very new to this forum and would like to request a little help in providing a preliminary drawing for comments and or critique. It may take me a little while to understand all the posting and forum system specifics and the technical requirements. I would like to active participate in providing everyone with my input and or any positive comments. However; I have been reading several posts and comments from - "Mr. Alaska" -- Very interesting person! But - He seems to a very nice guy ... and fairly knowledgeable. [Expecting a comment from him.] Looking forward to it. - Final Question: Will this forum allow me to post or attach a pdf picture? [If so how do I do it?] Reason being; I exported it from a TurboCAD program, and initially I saved it as a jpg. Unfortunately the jpg had very poor resolution, to the point it was not really that legible. jpg is bit map format, pdf is a vector format, which is really the way to go, and has much better resolution for viewing fine detail! Any questions welcomed regarding the drawing. I hope to be a contributor not like a tick on a Dog! - Sorry for being so verbose on my first post. Hope I didn't upset anybody! And ... most of all [The Moderators] Thomas San Antonio, TX